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This is my next one in a year or two. Best of both worlds.
Buggy chassis and full body comfort options.
LJ version if I can.
Fabricated housings, They are starting to show up used and such. Try to make it 4k# or less.
May as well hijack this thread. :sonicjay: I don't really see the advantage to this. You still get to smash up the sheet metal, which is the only damaged thing on mine. My chassis is still usable.

So John, when you going to share the plans?:poke:
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Been poking at the Suburban today. Trying to figure out the misfire and see if I can fix it before pulling the drivetrain out. I have a P0300 and a knock sensor fault, can't recall the number on that one.

Pulled spark plugs and found a random grab bag of gaps. Did a compression test and most cylinders were 150-160# with 2 a bit higher. I didn't test #8 since the A/C component is in my way. Checked fuel pressure and it's within spec.

Changed plugs since I had some on the shelf and took it for a spin. Was watching misfire counts with Torque Pro and saw that cylinders 2, 5, 6 and 8 had counts, but others were clean. Swapped plug wires on 2 and 5 from cylinders that weren't misfiring, and re-seated the plugs on 6 and 8. Took it back out and still misfiring on same cylinders.

Not sure what to make of the cylinders that are misfiring. Commons symptoms after searching a bit seemed to be bad fuel pump, clogged cats, leaky intake, or wiped cam lobes. I think my compression test rules out wiped lobes; the fuel pressure seems to be fine, and I could cut out the cats, but I want to wait since it'll mean I'm running open exhaust.

I decided with the knock code and potential for it being a leaky intake, I'd go after intake gaskets and that will give me access to the knock sensor to look for either bad wiring or to replace the sensor. I'm also going this route as I'm not sure I'll reuse the fuel pump, but having fresh gaskets on the intake won't hurt.

May as well hijack this thread. :sonicjay: I don't really see the advantage to this. You still get to smash up the sheet metal, which is the only damaged thing on mine. My chassis is still usable.
I looked at the WOD chassis last year at the Offroad Expo in Louisville. It was cool, but I agree with Jim. I think you could seal up a buggy chassis and still have replaceable panels. Biggest issue might be getting in all Bo & Luke Duke style.

I think Goat Ibex chassis has a windshield option, and I thought I saw someone had a top setup made for theirs.

So John, when you going to share the plans?:poke:
Nope. They are so secret even I don't know them.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·


Lots of cleaning. Trying to figure out if I want to mess with intake runners on the heads.

Found that GM upper engine cleaner on a toothbrush really helped break up carbon deposits, better than carb cleaner. Used a gasket scraper to break through the big clumps. Not factory new, but a whole lot better.

Knock sensors and harness here on Tuesday.

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Discussion starter · #54 ·
Knock sensor code gone. Still misfires on 2 5 6 8. Noticed I could go down road at < 2000 rpm and barely get misfire counts. Have fuel pressure gauge where I can see while driving, but it's too dark to see. I'll have to check when I get home tomorrow.

If fuel pressure is good I'm cutting out the cats or maybe pulling pass side injectors and rigging up a cleaner.

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Knock sensor code gone. Still misfires on 2 5 6 8. Noticed I could go down road at < 2000 rpm and barely get misfire counts. Have fuel pressure gauge where I can see while driving, but it's too dark to see. I'll have to check when I get home tomorrow.

If fuel pressure is good I'm cutting out the cats or maybe pulling pass side injectors and rigging up a cleaner.

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
I have 3 sets of 5.3L injectors I will let go for really cheap if you end up needing some

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I like where this is going, love the waggy body.
 
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