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Since I have to look this up every time... Fox 14" 2.5 air shock 585 mL factory fill
I took all the oil out of the fronts of oil mine and put 535 back in so I knew what I had while taking a little out to soften them some. I'm going to work on my rears before DOA this year. I may go a little less in the rear than the front to soften those up too.

I took oil out because it's easier to add some to play with the amount instead of having to take some out again
 
There are two fill line dimensions, min and max. Any reading you do, you will always find that more is better than less. It's way easier to pour oil in and measure with a scale than fuck around with measuring into a cup and then pouring a second time. (are you actually low on oil due to the film of oil still on the cup? hmmmmmmm)
 
Discussion starter · #711 ·
Info on my shocks:
9T3XJ
·Premium Member
Joined Feb 12, 2006
·
218 Posts
#63 · Dec 22, 2015

Currently single bleeds front and rear but I'm going to open the second bleed hole in the rears back up.

I've always run stock oil levels but I have played with valving. Valving alone makes a big difference in the 2.5's.

If my memory is right my fronts are valved 90/40, and rears are 70/40 but I think I'm gonna try 70/30 in the rear when I open up the shocks again.
 
Discussion starter · #712 ·
Fitting the fuel pump. Over on irate, Hydrodynamic posted he had modified the fuel pump plate for a Goatbuilt tank to use a 2005 Silverado pump and posted the CAD file.

I wanted to use that pump since it is returnless from factory and makes plumbing easier. I asked Broncar to cut it out of some 1/8 stainless I had. It took some cleanup but it fits great. I have a harness pig tail to connect the wiring.

I need to install some nutserts and install o-rings and gaskets and it will be good to go.

279692
 
Discussion starter · #716 ·
Steering is plumbed enough I could run it. I have some old lines running from the valve to the ram in place for now. Waiting on 2 90* fittings for the ram that will allow use of straight hose fittings to the ram. Once in, I'll have some new crimped lines made and I will also will take the field serviceable line from pump to valve in and have a crimped version made. Then I will have some spares for the box.

Waiting on trans cooler fittings, but hoping that is small-ish job. I need to go to inline tube and get a 10' section of 3/8 fuel line to run from tank to fuel rail. And final plumbing for running engine is cleaning up routing of radiator lines and trimming to fit. Oh.. and all brakes. yikes. I've been more focused on engine running than buggy stopping, so I keep making brakes lower priority.

Serpentine belt take 3 and 4 will be in this morning. Hoping there's no take 5..

Ran 4 gauge GXL wire from alternator to the battery. I picked up a hydraulic crimper from harbor freight and it makes a nice crimp, hoping for no issues. I need to route the starter to battery wire and make chassis and engine grounds and the big cable will be done besides winch wiring. I have thought of throwing the winch on just to have all big cables routed.

I need to make a tray for center stack where I hope to mount ECM, relays, and fuse panel. I picked up aluminum sheet last week so I have material for that.
 
Discussion starter · #719 ·
Will definitely post up some pics. I have an idea, but not sure if it will end up dipping too close to exhaust. Like so many things, I feel like there's plenty of room, then I start making something and somehow it gets smaller.

It looks like Ann Arbor Driveshaft is gone. I've bought a handful of driveshafts from there, and he was always reasonably priced and had good turnaround time. He also was willing to make 3/16 or 1/4 wall driveshafts, so that was good. So I tried to order one from a shop and they called me back a few hours later saying they went to set my stuff aside and they are out of stock on slip yokes, and not sure when they are off back order. Ugh.

So plan C.. just ordered front and rear kits form Wide Open Design. They claim they are in stock, so other than spending some time cutting and welding them up, hopefully that means that keeps moving along.
 
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