Ugh. I made a mistake.

When I made the hydroboost mount, I did not have the exhaust in. I thought saved enough room, but I'm off by at least an inch. So I've got to chew on it.

I can either :
a) install hydroboost and redo the rear exhaust behind the muffler
b) install hydroboost and use short dump right off muffler
c) reinstall manual brakes and return to this later.

At this point I'm thinking option c, and if I have time before going to South Dakota I can redo the exhaust. Option b may work, but it may be much louder and/or I could have heat issues with random exhaust placement.

I'm going to sleep on it, but I think slamming the car together and getting some test time is my best path forward.

 

Option D) Use option C for now and consider IBoost if you can't make A work well.
No way I would want a loud and possibly hot and stinky rig.

 

I see how I could chop up my exhaust to make it fit, but I think I would be smarter to just build a new section with the HB in place.

So tonight I will press on finishing up all other parts and see how much time is left to rebuild that.

 

Thing is looking great!!! You are almost there. Such a sweet build.

 

Interesting exhaust routing...I've been trying to figure out how to dump mine out the back and never thought about doing it like that.

I think option C or D would be a good path to go down. Don't load yourself up with stuff to do now. Sounds like your manual brakes work but not ideal. So just get it ready for your trip and reevaluate later.

 

After a night of sleep, I think I'll install old brakes and finish everything else and then reassess where I am at. The manual brakes are 94.732% good, but I know the hydroboost will make it better for holding on steep inclines/declines.

When the time is right, I think I can recreate the tail pipe with a shorter section in orange. That should give me the space I need. I know I have the 3" v-band pieces and I think some 3" straight pipe, but might need some 3" u-bends to make this.

 

Tonight I cut the trans cooler mount of 0.080" aluminum and then mounted it, the battery, and the hydro steering and power steering pump. Still need to make connections at steering ram and transmission.

Last night I knocked out the gas tank, radiator, and trunk.

 

Looking good

 

I dump my exhaust rite behind the t case. I don't think there is physically a way I can route it out from under with the way the chassis is built and with the 4 links in the wa. With the muffler I have, it is not too terribly loud inside. I would like it a bit quieter though. I do not get any nasty exhaust smells.

Sounds like option C would be the best route.

 

I found a piece of fire sleeve in the cabinet, so I decided to give my trans cooler lines some protection around the headers.

 

It runs. Still plenty of assembly to finish.

 

Sitting on its own weight thanks to @whiterhino for having a spare shock shrader valve.

 

Sweet. Glad it worked for you.
I forgot to give you your spindle socket. You were standing right next to it.

 

The exhaust v-band showed up. It was tangled in the driver's side seatbelts. :flipoff:

 

First place I would've checked

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

At Holly Oaks waiting on the tooner. It was a rush to the last second.

 

A couple glamor shots before I go mess it up. Hoping to go for another shakedown run tomorrow if the weather cooperates.

 

yep

 

This better work. Without boots and a good air gap the old wires lasted less than 8 hours..

 

Without boots and a good air gap the old wires lasted less than 8 hours..

Fingers crossed the sleeves work.

 

If I have issues with what I jut put in, I'll move to Taylor Spiro-Pro Spark Plug Wire Sets 76246. I was just looking at changing headers and found these wires. Supposed to have shorter boot that provides more clearance.

 

IIRC there are shorter spark plugs that will also make more clearance too

 

All that whoo pow HP burnin up the plugs.

 

@JohnnyJ

Looking at manual brakes for my buggy, came across your thread on irate. Did you ever fix your brake situation? I'm running a similar brake setup (2005+ ford d60 front stock brakes, 14 bolt rear (chevy 1/2t calipers). Any lessons learned you could pass along?

 

The manual brakes on my buggy worked, but required lots of pedal travel. In 4LO crawling down large drop offs, I sometimes was annoyed at it's holding capability. I generally just go into front low as it helps the push off feeling and helps the braking. It's not super common, but that was my biggest complaint.

I'm blowing up the entire setup right now. I wanted to try using an iBooster and in the process I'm swapping out calipers and rotors to match up with the stock ibooster master. Not sure how it'll work, it's more of a science project.

If I ever get to it, I plan the original rotors & calipers with a hydroboost system on my Wagoneer. For the buggy I decided I didn't want hydroboost, but for the Wagoneer I think it'll be fine. The reason for not wanting on the buggy was that when you are braking and steering, it can have impacts on steering. Given the buggy is a crawler, I wanted to avoid this pitfall. The wagoneer will be hydro assist and I won't be using it for the technical crawling that i use the buggy for.

 

The fix for the steering or brakes getting priority is having a ported hydroboost. I have ZERO issues when I brake and steer at the same time.

 

Hmmm. Guess I'm going to try to make my stock-ish vacuum boosted setup work. Should work well enough and I've got everything I need.

 

We been putting dodge 1 ton masters on Jeep stock boosters with awesome results. Cardone part# 13-2867
Bolted right up to my cousins 89 Cherokee. Had to modify rod and reseal the booster on my brothers zj all running superduty tons The master takes metric fittings btw