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Johnny's GoatBuilt JHF buggy build

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214K views 993 replies 64 participants last post by  JohnnyJ  
#1 · (Edited)
At post 110 I changed my mind and decided I would build a buggy instead of the Wag. The Wag continues to wait for it's next build.

At post 187 I ordered up a GoatBuilt JHF chassis to hopefully speed this up. (edit: nope)

Current Build plan:
GoatBuilt JHF Chassis, 108" wheelbase, "jeep" hood and grille
2007 Ford F250 Dana 60, 5.38, Sparty locker, JHF high-steer
- narrowed 4" to use 78 F250 axleshaft on the long side, using factory 1550 shafts
1998 Chevy K3500 14-bolt, shaved, 5.38, Detroit, 1/2t chevy disc brakes
39" BFG Krawler Red labels on KMC Machete Beadlocks
2001 GMC Yukon XL 6.0L LQ4
  • Holley TerminatorX EFI
  • Champ oil pan (high-ish clearance, baffled, steel)
  • Dorman LS2 car intake and Warr cable throttle body
  • Holley fuel rails with late-model 6.0 truck injectors (EV6, E85 flow rates, 12613412)
  • Goatbuilt accessory brackets, TC pump on driver's side, alt on passenger
  • GM 706 heads
  • BTR Truck Norris cam
TH400 built by Tranny Tom, Reverse Manual with Winters/WOD shifter
Atlas transfer case, 3.0 low range
Fox 2.5 air shocks
PSC Full Hydro, 2.5x10" ram, TC-pump
Mastercraft cheap seats with Impact 5-point harnesses
Griffin 31x19 radiator, Derale 16927 shroud and twin fans
Goatbuilt fuel tank and factory fuel pump
Magnaflow muffler mpe-12649

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I bought my Wagoneer in 1997. It was my first 4x4 and I bought it so that me and my friends could go camping and have room for our gear since we all drove econoboxes. That fall I ended up moving to Germany for 18 months and it went into storage.

When I got back I rebuilt the AMC 360 with the help of a friend, and we did enough maintenance on the rest to get it on the road. Over the next few years it got a 4" lift and went from 31s and then 35s when I put a 3" body lift. We did some wheeling with it and eventually I put it on 33 Stampers from my old Wrangler.

In around 2005 it was parked due to lack of time and using any spare time on my Wrangler. A few years later we stole the drive train for the TREC Wagoneer, and it has sat since.

Over the summer I got out of racing, bought a RZR and drug this back in the shop. I'm thinking I want to get it back on the road and trails.

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#633 ·
I have been trying to figure how to do a spreader on the shock mounts and keep it under the hood. I decided to go with a double bar made of 1x0.125 DOM. I want to make a plate between the two, but first I want to add on some bars to make the upper grille mount and a make it double for front hood pin mount.

Battery arrived yesterday. I think I can make it all fit up front. It will take some more figuring.

279316
 
#636 ·
Working on my CAD skills. I wanted to see if I could take advantage of the cowl opening as an air intake. I grabbed a 2001 LS1 Camaro filter for mock-up. It’s roughly 16x8.

I would need a lid that would help to direct air to the filter. The other mod I would do is to have the rear panel perpendicular to the ground. With the angle it gets a little close to the PS pump.

Any thoughts?
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#638 ·
Looking great! Cool idea on the air intake... I'm just not a fan for it that close to the front for if you ever dip the front into water or get caught in a rain storm. Could you have a block off plate for the front that is removable? Then it can pull air from another area as well?

I got caught in a huge downpour while living in Kalamazoo heading back from the fairgrounds. I had the intake off to the side and it was mostly covered. It was sucking in water due to how much was coming down and the standing water on the roads.
 
#646 ·
It's a little bigger than stock truck filter, it's 16x8 and common on GM stuff including 2001 Camaro with an LS1. At some point I will buy a K&N filter, and I'm trying to see if I can get a pre-filter for it. Should be easy enough to get a spare if needed while on the road in a jam. I still need to make a scoop for pulling in from hood cowl.

Last night I worked on a lower crossmember that I'm hoping to hang the steering valve and battery from. Will grab a pic as it turns into something.
 
#650 ·
Last night I think I figured out the layout for the front of the buggy. I put a lower 1.5x0.120 DOM crossmember from shock mount to shock mount. The top of that tube is same height as the bottom of the winch plate. I think I am going to put down a plate of 1/8 steel from that crossmember up to the winch plate. I need to figure out how I will mount it to, but my hope is to make it removable for if/when the engine needs to come in or out. Also figure at some point I will dimple die it, which is why I will use 1/8 instead of 3/16.

On the driver's side, against the frame rail will sit the steering valve. I just ordered a 16" PSC heat sink cooler that will run in the "winch" opening on the grill. Between the cooler and water pump, the battery will sit with terminals facing forward. The battery fits under the air box, and with terminals facing forward, it gives them max clearance. The PSC cooler is short enough to give clearance to the terminals as well. I can fit the steering reservoir above the driver's frame rail and that should be protected and give an easy route to the pump.

Then on the pass side the trans cooler will fit. It will be off the grill by a few inches to give space for the headlights and power steering cooler. Since it has a fan, it should still be able to properly cool the trans and pull in fresh cool air. This also gives some room on the passenger side to get the coolant hoses headed to the back of the rig.

Now to make it all fit. Should take a few days. I also grabbed some steering shaft parts, and I think I can snake the shaft up to the wheel with 2 u-joints using this setup. Should work out well by keeping high amp (starter, winch, alt) near the battery, and all steering plumbing up front and not over my lap.