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Johnny's GoatBuilt JHF buggy build

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214K views 993 replies 64 participants last post by  JohnnyJ  
#1 · (Edited)
At post 110 I changed my mind and decided I would build a buggy instead of the Wag. The Wag continues to wait for it's next build.

At post 187 I ordered up a GoatBuilt JHF chassis to hopefully speed this up. (edit: nope)

Current Build plan:
GoatBuilt JHF Chassis, 108" wheelbase, "jeep" hood and grille
2007 Ford F250 Dana 60, 5.38, Sparty locker, JHF high-steer
- narrowed 4" to use 78 F250 axleshaft on the long side, using factory 1550 shafts
1998 Chevy K3500 14-bolt, shaved, 5.38, Detroit, 1/2t chevy disc brakes
39" BFG Krawler Red labels on KMC Machete Beadlocks
2001 GMC Yukon XL 6.0L LQ4
  • Holley TerminatorX EFI
  • Champ oil pan (high-ish clearance, baffled, steel)
  • Dorman LS2 car intake and Warr cable throttle body
  • Holley fuel rails with late-model 6.0 truck injectors (EV6, E85 flow rates, 12613412)
  • Goatbuilt accessory brackets, TC pump on driver's side, alt on passenger
  • GM 706 heads
  • BTR Truck Norris cam
TH400 built by Tranny Tom, Reverse Manual with Winters/WOD shifter
Atlas transfer case, 3.0 low range
Fox 2.5 air shocks
PSC Full Hydro, 2.5x10" ram, TC-pump
Mastercraft cheap seats with Impact 5-point harnesses
Griffin 31x19 radiator, Derale 16927 shroud and twin fans
Goatbuilt fuel tank and factory fuel pump
Magnaflow muffler mpe-12649

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I bought my Wagoneer in 1997. It was my first 4x4 and I bought it so that me and my friends could go camping and have room for our gear since we all drove econoboxes. That fall I ended up moving to Germany for 18 months and it went into storage.

When I got back I rebuilt the AMC 360 with the help of a friend, and we did enough maintenance on the rest to get it on the road. Over the next few years it got a 4" lift and went from 31s and then 35s when I put a 3" body lift. We did some wheeling with it and eventually I put it on 33 Stampers from my old Wrangler.

In around 2005 it was parked due to lack of time and using any spare time on my Wrangler. A few years later we stole the drive train for the TREC Wagoneer, and it has sat since.

Over the summer I got out of racing, bought a RZR and drug this back in the shop. I'm thinking I want to get it back on the road and trails.

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#400 ·
Atlas showed up. Last one I bought was in 2002 and had a 4 digit serial. I think they have sold a few since then.

Basic specs: 3:1 low, 1350 front, 1410 rear, 32 spline to hook up to my Th400.

Speaking of the trans, I handed it over to Tom today to rebuild. It will be back after the leaves fall off the trees.
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#402 ·
Working on finding full stuff. Looks like I'll need to redo engine mounts to make room for upper links. Going to need to stare at it some more.

Depending on how close to straight the front tire is, I should be about 82 wide up front to the outside of the tires. Trailer is 84 wide, so winning there.
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#406 ·
I was thinking this morning that I could make a jig with the old mounts, and then be able to make a new set on the bench. Maybe even be able to CAD up a set and have them cut.

One other issue that I need to work through is shock mounting. Looking through other builds, most are using remote reservoir coilovers or swayaway air shocks. I have Fox 2.5 air shocks, and they are 3" longer than the reference builds, which is making them a pain to find space for.
 
#409 ·
Guess you'll have to switch to portals so you can mount them down on the c's!? :sonicjay:
Not that I would, but that same thought crossed my mind. [emoji3] I'm thinking something like what Currie did on their 4600.
John, what lower link mounts are you using?
Barnes 4wd
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#412 ·
That's what I'm thinking about. That's off the Currie/Savvy 4600 car, but it does get the shock low so it's not above the hood. But.. it's low.

I don't like the air shock mounting that low. When I look at how bad my link mounts are worn (directly behind the axle) I wouldn't want my shock mount to be seeing that abuse.

The first pic is of my driver side. You can see the wear on the under side of the tab. The second pic is my passenger side where I had a bunch of 1045 plates made up that I am progressively adding to the outside of the existing tabs. It gives me a stronger tab and then makes the tab a 1/2” wide instead of the original 1/4”.
Yeah, that's what I'm struggling with. I don't want the shock above the hood. Was thinking I'd need to put a skid on the bottom that's sacrificial if I go this route.

More sitting and staring coming.
 
#411 · (Edited)
I don't like the air shock mounting that low. When I look at how bad my link mounts are worn (directly behind the axle) I wouldn't want my shock mount to be seeing that abuse.

The first pic is of my driver side. You can see the wear on the under side of the tab. The second pic is my passenger side where I had a bunch of 1045 plates made up that I am progressively adding to the outside of the existing tabs. It gives me a stronger tab and then makes the tab a 1/2” wide instead of the original 1/4”.

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#415 ·
Fox 2.5 x 14. They are 24.6" compressed compared to a SAW 2.5 x 14 that's 21", and Fox 2.0 x 14" remote reservoir coilover is about the same.

I thought about that too but I can't get the link out if I plate the bottom.

On a side note, I can tell you it's a lot easier removing the links with the shock directly over the axle. I can pop my front links in and out without much issue. Because my rears are offset in front of the axle, it always wants to twist when I remove a link.
Yeah, definitely is more of a pain if I need to tear it down. Was wondering if I could make the link mount and have the air shock close to the tube and the link mount further out, but both near bottom of axle tube.