John I would defiantly recommend more room under the seat to the top of that t case, Check the manufacture specs but most suspension seats require 2-3 inches of clearance.

 

Hood clearance issue solved. Let's create a new issue.

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Looking good! What's size tires are you gonna run?


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Goal is to grab some 39 Red Krawlers, but for now I have some half-life 42 Iroks or 37 Trep Radials.

 

Friday night I messaged Jesse Haines and asked how he set up his drivetrain. He said Atlas 1/4" off frame and skid and crank centered. The tcase spacing matches what Roxroes suggested.

So I borrowed a spare Atlas from Hoser and mocked this up. The seat frame just barely clears the atlas shifter extension off the back, but this is 2" deeper in the chassis than the 205. WIth the drop of of the case it gives me plenty of space under the seat.

There is about 1/2" clearance under the trans pan running a factory 3" truck pan. Only thing I can't check right now is converter clearance since I had to move to my mockup empty trans since the th400 output is too long for this Atlas setup.

I'm thinking of moving the drivetrain 1/2" to the front of chassis and building some mounts. That will give a little more clearance to between seat frame and Atlas.

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Sounds like a good move all around.

 

oke:

 

Time has been short lately, but had some time on Saturday after being out of town over Memorial Day.

I'm working on a trans mount. The first idea was to see if I could tuck the bushing directly under the trans mount. That didn't work as it left < 1/4" between the mount and the belly skid. So I debated whether to hard mount or if I could fit the poly mount to the front of the cross-member. This is how i left it on Saturday.

I had to notch the crossmember, and will add tabs and a box in around where the poly mount intrudes.

 

That's how I did the trans mount in order to flat belly my TJ. Just a flat plate tied into the side of the bushing tube with some anti-rotate gussets. Works great.

 

Good to hear. I probably went overkill on it hoping it wouldn't tear itself up hanging in front of the mount, but I've had mounts work loose and tear up trans mounts in the past.

 

Needs a little more metal, but the trans crossmember is in place. Still debating if drivetrain goes forward a little.

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Wide shot as its sitting.

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:thumb:

 

Looking good mister.

 

Axle rough placement. This is approx 4" above planned ride height. I'm happy with where the diff is side to side. Still lots of packaging to do, but I think it'll a good path to get to the front carrier bearing.

Looking at Jesse's build, his front axle is about 3" to the front of the chassis than where I randomly slid it in. With that,I think I may slide the drivetrain forward about an inch. That gives a little more room around the torque converter, and a little more room under the seat.

 

:thumb: Good thinking.

 

Was on vacation with the family for a week, but got out to the shop on Sunday and move the drivetrain forward 1". Trans mount is pretty much done, now working on engine mounts.

Ordered up 39" Krawlers and KMC Machete beadlocks. Wallet is on fire, but hoping to finish up engine mounts and get going on suspension. Wanted to have tires and wheels here to check for clearances.

 

You still going to run the headers that I saw when I borrowed your trailer?

 

You "think" you ordered tires. You may have paid for them but I'm not sure they will arrive in your barn. :naughty: :d:

 

That's my fear.

You still going to run the headers that I saw when I borrowed your trailer?

Pretty sure, but I'm going to flip them and run them pointing back. They need a little massaging, but fit pretty well. Will need 90* boots on the plug wires or risk burning them off.

 

I got the wheels today. I am impressed by their heft.

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Those will look really nice with the used stickies you bought.

 

Those wheels are sexy! I may splurge for some wheels other than black steelies, depends on funds

 

Coming along! I was going to go KMC to get rid of the Racelines that I hate, but Collin hooked me up with some Dirty Life's. I'm digging them so far.

 

I reinstalled wheel studs in a hub I had redrilled for 8x6.5 and checked fitment of a wheel. It slid together nicely. I was 99% there would be no issue, but it's always nice when a plan comes together.



Yeah, compared to Racelines on the last car, these seem quite a bit beefier. I had looked at Dirty Life's a number of times, but couldn't find anybody with feedback to see how they are.

I went with these since you can get a replacement through Summit in a few days. So if I do destroy one, I knew I could get replacements easily. In the past I've had to jump through hoops to get beadlocks, and I'm sick of that.

Pretty sure, but I'm going to flip them and run them pointing back. They need a little massaging, but fit pretty well. Will need 90* boots on the plug wires or risk burning them off.

Was over at Hoser's this weekend and saw he's running MSD 90* fittings on his plug. I may steal a plug wire next time I'm over there and verify it will work with my stuff.

 

I want those rims!

 

Wheels look real good. :thumb:

 

Pic of wheel on stock 05 f250 unit bearing and rotor drilled to 8x6.5. Reused Ford wheel studs and GM lug nuts. Impact socket doesn't fit, but chrome socket was fine.

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