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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a question for those of you out there who may be running an IFS lift. Yes, I know IFS isn't the greatest option for a lift but I get a good discount on Rancho lifts and I got an IFS Chevy for free. So I am gonna stick with the IFS.

That being said, does somebody have some experience on how big of a tire can be run on a IFS lift of say 4-6 inches before having to worry about puting the suspension components at risk? I have read 35 is as large as you should go, but then I know a guy who swears up and down that 33 is as large as you can go. 35s may give me clearance issues but I am more interested in what the increased risk may be in running a 35 instead of a 33. Is it nothing to worry about or does that extra 2 inches of tire really spell bad news for an IFS?

Thanks for any help.
 

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DrivewayJeeper
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I take its a 1/2 ton. I have a few buddies that I have wheeled with in the past with IFS 1/2tons. One running a 4-6" Skyjacker w/35" Thornbirds. The other a 6" ProComp with 35" Boggers. Both have had nothin' but problems with cv shaft, ball joints, tie rods, and idler arms. They would have to change parts after every trip. Most of the time is was a warrantied part, but still the pain of breaking and changing things sucks.

One guy gave up on wheelin, he could stand to put money into his Chevy anymore after a trailride. Now he just wheels during hunting season. The other Chevy has sat for 6 mos...same thing guy is tired of fixing it.
 

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Yankabilly
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I have done a ton of IFS lifts on the chevy's. 6" is the minimum to run 35's and still be able to wheel happily. It would get by as a DD

I had to use 3/4 tortion bars with the 6" dick cepec lift to run 35's comfortably on a customers truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Muddinguy said:
i would not go any bigger than a 35.. but u know it wouldnt be that hard to stick a dana 44 or 60 under the front of that rig ?
There are a few reasons I am sticking with the IFS setup. The first being this isn't going to end up being my dedicated off-road truck. The worst this will see is some mild trails and mud bogs. So I wanna keep the IFS for the improved road manners. The company I work for is the parent company of Rancho, so I get 50% off all kits. I looked into a solid axle swap and it would just be a lot more work and money.

I am eventually going to get something else to do some hard wheeling with. Right now I commute about 100 miles a day total to get to work, so a full-size daily driver isn't the best idea for mpg. So this is gonna be my second vehicle and be for lumber yard trips, trips up north hauling my atv and camper (when I buy one), etc. Down the road I will get something with a solid front axle to beat up off-road.

Basically the question comes from the fact that I had this guy tell me that 35s will cause suspension failure and to run 33s because he knew a guy who broke stuff on 35s. My contention was that 2 inches of tire didn't cause the failure, wheeling IFS like you would a SFA truck more likely was the reason he broke parts.

35s seem like they are gonna be a problem unless I trim up the fenders so I will probably go with 33s.

Some day I will get a K5 Blazer to really beat hard off-road.
 

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DrivewayJeeper
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Wow 100 mile a day commute and you want a fullsize on 35's to commute with? You and the gas companies will eventaully be best friends.:sonicjay:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Roadhouse said:
Wow 100 mile a day commute and you want a fullsize on 35's to commute with? You and the gas companies will eventaully be best friends.:sonicjay:

HA, thats what I get for writing a post and making dinner at the same time. I was trying to say this is gonna be my second vehicle because I have a smaller more fuel efficient vehicle as my daily driver.

Sorry about that.
 

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Muddinguy said:
you could run 33's on fullsize IFS parts all day long !
3" body clears 33's on stock rims
my roommate runs that on a 97 ext. cab chevy short bed 4x4

DON'T crank the torsion bars!!!!!!!!!!!

it will wear everything steering related, and the cv's fast!
 
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