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skillicous
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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(513) 891-8372
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That's not a butterfly...that's a ball valve. I would bet that any one that can handle petroleum products would work.
 
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bones, if you end up wanting one, let me know. I purchase chemical ball valves by the 100's. 1/2" NPT. $4.00 a piece.

I think they cost around 20 at home depot.

It looks just like my valves, with two reducers on the ends :sonicjay:

I should sell them for $30 on pirate
 

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Buy a Fiat! Save the UAW!
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I use the high presure teflon valves at work. its a sure bet the standard ball ones will fail over time. the ones I get are rated at 1/8" pipe in/out at 3000 psi. and the 1/4 pipe in/out are 2500 psi. as for the working presure of your brakes they need about 1000-1200 to hold you still on a grade. the majority of system need around 1800 to lock your tires at 35 mph. the over ride systems I build at work use 2200 psi. our one 3000 lb barge only needs 900 psi to lock all 4 so you may want to test yours out to see what works best for you.
 

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bones, if you end up wanting one, let me know. I purchase chemical ball valves by the 100's. 1/2" NPT. $4.00 a piece.

I think they cost around 20 at home depot.

It looks just like my valves, with two reducers on the ends :sonicjay:

I should sell them for $30 on pirate
I have all sorts of ball valve here at work, some good, some not so good, even when I worked in a chemical plant our best valves I would not use on a brake systesm. You are talking about 2K psi. Even our gate valves would have a leak rate, much less than a ball valve, but on large systems it might not have mattered. On a small hydraulic braking system, a little leak means A LOT!
 

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skillicous
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
bones, if you end up wanting one, let me know. I purchase chemical ball valves by the 100's. 1/2" NPT. $4.00 a piece.

I think they cost around 20 at home depot.

It looks just like my valves, with two reducers on the ends :sonicjay:

I should sell them for $30 on pirate
I want one. The reason that one is $50 is the brake line fittings on the ends I think.

Do you have smaller ones? the brake lines are 1/8 NPT, but I can just get redcers too

paypal?

as far as use, this will be a cut brake. I only need it to hold for about 5 seconds, probably only using it 50 times a year...
 

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I only wheel a boat.
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why would you want a shut off on your brakes???
 

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skillicous
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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They won't hold the pressure. Depending on your setup you could be at 1,000 PSI.

And even if they did they would bleed off after a while.
 

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skillicous
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
And even if they did they would bleed off after a while.
faster than 5 sec? if they are rated to 2500, why would they leak at 1000?
 

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Covered in mud...
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When I developed brake systems, I believe we used 2000 psi as a normal 'max' pressure.

2000 psi is a REALLY strong dude standing with 300lbs+ on the pedal.

Just spend the coin on a line lock and cutting brake. You'll not get a linear repsonse trying to shut that thing..
 

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skillicous
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just spend the coin on a line lock and cutting brake. You'll not get a linear repsonse trying to shut that thing..

why? if I can just stand on the brake and flip a valve for $10?
 

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I am the law.
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why? if I can just stand on the brake and flip a valve for $10?
I agree with the Monkey. We kicked this around in the other e-brake thread recently. You just can't trust the hydraulic systems over time.




If you want a hydraulic solution to theft, create a system that removes the pressure. The buggy will be immobilized after it crashes into whatever they aim it at while trying to stop.
 

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The Boss
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create a system that removes the pressure. The buggy will be immobilized after it crashes into whatever they aim it at while trying to stop.
i like this idea best.... you might loose the ride but they might get hurt in the process! :beerbang:

a tee in line with the brake line that has a valve that goes back to the master could work. if i just typed that right.. haha
 

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skillicous
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You just can't trust the hydraulic systems over time.
ok, I've said this a few times, maybe this time you'll catch it
*reading is a lost art*

I ONLY NEED THIS TO WORK FOR ~5 SECONDS AT A TIME

I'm not looking for a parking brake, I want a line lock for turning
 

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I'm not looking for a parking brake, I want a line lock for turning
IMHO you would be better off with a lever.

Having to push in the brakes, reach down turn a line lock, unlock the rear end, make the turn, reach down turn the line lock, then lock in the rear end would such compared to:

Unlock rear axle, pull brake lever while making turn, release lever, lock rear axle.

Just how I feel about it though. For the price difference it may be worth it just to go with the ball valve.
 

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skillicous
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have a double throw lever, but only plumbed with one line in and one out. I can't get it to work right, I feel retarded. I'm going to try something different this weekend, so we'll see.
 
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