[clarkstoncracker]

I never had an issue until I switched to 2" RE SOA reverse wrap springs.

My draglink rubs on my passenger side leaf. It mates with the tie rod right at the leaf spring. My high steer arm is only a single hole design. I already had Daryl over at JCR whip me up a set of 3/4" spacers, and that did not help.

Is my only fix purchasing a new high steer arm, and buying a longer drag link? Or am I missing another fix that I could do?

 

[fullthrottle]

they make 1" spacers for high steer arms to clear soa springs....

do you think another 1/4" will help? or not.

 

[clarkstoncracker]

they make 1" spacers for high steer arms to clear soa springs....

do you think another 1/4" will help? or not.

I do not think so. Daryl may have made 5/8". I don't remember. I guess I could just put in a 1 1/2" spacer, but that seems kind of dangerous with the leverage on the studs.

 

[sodapop]

I'm using standard flat arms on mine with 1" thick spacers. My TRE set up sit basically the same as JCR's - ES2233L Reamed to fit an ES2026R on the passenger side. The one inch spacers make it tall enough to just barely clear the spring like such.

This pic is about 1/4" from the stops but with my TRE set-up, the Drag link is further from the spring than your set-up

This set up works good for me but it's not a cheap fix for your situation. I don't think the Extra .25 will work for your setup cuz as the knuckle turns in, the steering arms drops down a bit and from the phot, it doesn't seem like that would fix the situation. I wouldn't want to go any taller than an inch, that's a lot of leverage on the top of those knuckles, studs, and arms. If you ever go hydro assist, it may not cut it.

From what I see, it looks like you have 2 options:

1. Buy one new high steer arm that can accommodate a second hole for the drag link, build a new drag link and call it good. Or does your current arm have room for another hole? then you could just drill and ream it.

2. Change your tie rod and drag link to a set up similar to mine and keep your existing arms. Personally, I would do this as your tie rod and drag link is stocker stuff and if you're going to dump money in, you may as well upgrade. Figure $100 - $150 in TRE's and then about another $100 in tube and weld in bungs & Jam nuts. (or cash to get someone to tap the right size tubing)

 

[PavementPounder]

You asked for opinions, so... Stop pumping money into the D44.


Aside from that, what knuckles are you using?

 

[Monkeyevil]

The spacers I made for you were 3/8"

I think just running an 1" spacer will solve your problems.

I don't run a spacer under my Parts Mike arms at all. But I made some super low clearance spring perches.

 

[clarkstoncracker]

You asked for opinions, so... Stop pumping money into the D44.

After 4 off road trips TRYING to break my front axle so I would have a reason to upgrade it, I haven't. I've been happy with it, and I will probably just run it. I also quickly realized that most of the people who say you need to run a 1 ton setup up front, tend not to have a running rig.

 

[clarkstoncracker]

sodapop, thanks for the post. That looks like the way to go.

And I'm posting this for future questions.

The taper:
ES2026R 1.5/FT top = .793 bottom = .715

ES2010R 1.5/FT top = .775 bottom = .675

 

[PavementPounder]

I didn't say you needed to. What I (and others) said was that you'd have spent less money and ended up stronger.


And I have 2 running rigs. :stan:

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

I didn't say you needed to. What I (and others) said was that you'd have spent less money and ended up stronger.


And I have 2 running rigs. :stan:

You 2 might want to consider marriage??:tonka:


The differance from a 3/8" to a 1" will be big, and as Monkeyevil said, will probably work. Let us know what you go with.:chauncy:

 

[clarkstoncracker]

The differance from a 3/8" to a 1" will be big, and as Monkeyevil said, will probably work. Let us know what you go with.:chauncy:

I just did the calculations, and if my math is right, it will be about 5/8" taller.

:sonicjay:

I'm going to just do it right. Buy all new bling stuff like the sodapop man did.

I believe I'm starting to see a slight reflection in this turd!

 

[zjkid]

I just did the calculations, and if my math is right, it will be about 5/8" taller.

:sonicjay:

I'm going to just do it right. Buy all new bling stuff like the sodapop man did.

I believe I'm starting to see a slight reflection in this turd!

wow that was tough math.

 

[fullthrottle]

Quote:
Originally Posted by fullthrottle
they make 1" spacers for high steer arms to clear soa springs....

do you think another 1/4" will help? or not.

I do not think so. Daryl may have made 5/8". I don't remember. I guess I could just put in a 1 1/2" spacer, but that seems kind of dangerous with the leverage on the studs.

your welcome

 

[clarkstoncracker]

thank you full throttle

 

[Blackjackbender]

I didn't say you needed to. What I (and others) said was that you'd have spent less money and ended up stronger.


And I have 2 running rigs. :stan:

I am going to agree with PP. I wouldnt polish a turd to much. but then again you probably already have a boat load in the front axle.


also I made PP signature. :tonka:

 

[silverxj]

I guess I could just put in a 1 1/2" spacer.

Yes, this would be the best route for you. :thumb:

 

[Jeepaholic]

Actually the best solution is a 3 or 4 link front :tonka:

 

[Jeeperz Creeperz]

What about a different tie rod end? Yours looks a lot longer than mine.