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Discussion Starter #1
so I realized that I am really on the home stretch now with the ol' Lucky Charm, when I purchsed some new shoes for it(pictures to come later). I keep thinking about all the odds and ends that I need to finish up to get this rig running hopefully by the end of the year or so. but anyways, here are some things I need to address:

1)steering: I have a d44 front axle with d30 knuckes and outwards. I am wondering what I should do about steering linkage, like tie rods and drag link. I plan on buying new stuff cause mine was old and worn. I do plan on replacing my dropped pitman arm with a standard one and flipping my steering linkage on top of the knuckles. but...
a) would SRS interfere with anything
b) how do these look: http://www.goferitoffroad.com/other_products.htm
c) how about these for the flip kit: http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm
d) I don't think it will be a problem, but with the d44 and d30 outers I just figure to use HD d30 parts, or stock d30, and I figure that will fit and work well, anyone disagree?

2)My computer... yep, mine still won't work and I got Jim lookin for one, but if anyone else could find a 98 4.0L computer without VTSS that would be just GREAT!

3)CV shafts(or double cardon shaft, whichever it's called): well basically as it sits right now I have a rear axle (d60) bolted in the rear of my Jeep without the perches or shock mounts welded yet. I am thinking that I want to put a CV shaft while I have the rear "pivitable" now I know that there are posts on this, but a few questions come up like...
a)do I have to replace my yokes (on d300, or d60)
b)what to get the shaft from.
c)is a CV shaft necessary for the front?

4)ujoint ubolts: I have read that I can just drill out the yoke holes and put them in, is this true, are they necessary, beetter, what am I looking at in fab/price/benefits.

5)exhaust: as it sits, I have a 98ZJ engine with the stock manifold coming off and that's it. I also have my old muffler and exhaust system from my 83CJ before I started the rebuild. I ultimately want to put a header and flowmaster and maybe even true dual flowmasters some day(just for giggles). so as for now should I just retrofit the old exhaust on there and wait till I can afford the new setup? or is there a different route I could take? maybe even just buy the flowmaster and make a new exhaust system then add in the header later?
a)and what kind of sensors am I going to need for the engine to work properly
b)are there such things at O2 sensor dummies that trick the comp. into thinking you have properly working sensors, or is this just myth, and where could I find them if it's true?

6)intake: what are you guys with 4.0L swaps doing with the intake?
a) what is something I could use for a temp. setup?
b) how does these look for a permanent fix?
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=3&plID=0&partID=4404
http://www.quadratec.com/products/17010_007.htm
http://www.quadratec.com/products/17010_003.htm

7)lift shackles: one wise man(I believe to be Rodney aka Jeepskate)one day said something like "if you have lift springs you should get lift shackes, because it lets them flex as much as they should, permitting a smoother ride and more flex" like I said it was something like that and not that exactly, but anyways if I have a 4" lift, would a 1" lift shackle do the trick?
a)how do these look?
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16045_02.htm
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16049_205.htm
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16049_204.htm
these are interesting to me because they give more of a lift to a CJ, why would this be?
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16049_100.htm
b)are the welded ones better than just 2 peices of stock, cause it seems like they would be more solid, but could they be too stiff and mess with the flexing capabilities and put too much stress on the springs?

8) radiator: When I filled my radiator I discivered a leak coming from the middle (fin) area of my rad. is there a way to fix this, or do I just need a new one?

9) front SRS shackle: this has been an ongoing question by me, but I was just going to run with it, but seeing as i am planning on getting lift shackles for the rear I will need to address the front as well. but I have SRS, and the front shackle leans forward, and it's weird. will a boomerang shackle help this possibly. otherwise i'm just going to put some longer shackles on it and call it good.
here's the pic.

and here's the boomerang



as always more questions will come. and thanks for any and all questions you will answer. have a good one.

~Bry
 

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Would be nice if you told us what type of Jeep it was- I'm not too up on the models so I have never heard of the "Lucky Charm" edition. Is it like the ReneGayed??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok it's an 83 CJ7, with a d44 front and d60 rear a yj tub, lockers front and rear, 98ZJ 4.0L engine 5" of lift so far, and 35's, the Lucky Charm is it's name and your cliff notes are the words right after the question #, the 2 or 3 words tell what the question is about.

~Bry
 

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ok it's an 83 CJ7, with a d44 front and d60 rear a yj tub, lockers front and rear, 98ZJ 4.0L engine 5" of lift so far, and 35's, the Lucky Charm is it's name and your cliff notes are the words right after the question #, the 2 or 3 words tell what the question is about.

~Bry

what brand/type of lockers, and what color was the ZJ that the engine came out of??? that information would make it easier to give you some advice.
 

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1. flipping and using upgraded hd steering (drag and tie rods) assembly's probably best...w/out going hy-steer.
2. keep looking or have chyrsler re-flash it.
3. cv's best in the rear. tom woods or the baycity driveline. front doesnt have to be cv. some 60's u-joints match the d300. <--bigger the better. u can get a driveshaft w/ 2 diff sized u-joints. ask when u call.
4. d-300 should be straps.<-icbw d60 /d44 idk. if u drill them, the yokes become weaker then they were ment to be. replace w/ lartger u-joint yoke to match diff or t-case outputs.
5. use stock for now and proper o2 sensors. the engine needs them to run better. upgrade the header if u feel the need or have extra$.
6. open filiments are bad for offroading unless sealed in a cold air box. run a snorkel. intake manifold should have the air temp sensor.
7. lift shackles add 1/2 there given lift over stock shackles. dont run lift shackles on a srs, pinion and drive angles get highly affected. cj shackles were shorter then then yj shackles oem. boomarang rear shackles are a good option w/ matching height front shackle.
8. dont chance it replace and have old one recored for trail spare.
9. see 7#
 

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2013 King of da Moustache
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my question y did u go w/ d30 outters on a d44? u can get 5on5.5 bolt pattern d44 outers just he same. w/ a stronger outter 19 spline shaft, flat top and hub setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks fullthrottle, since you're the only one with helpful info. but I did the outers, mainly for money. but some one sticking up for me once agreed that it was good that I kept the weakest link outwards, so it would be easier to fix. now if I break anything it will likely be something near the hub, so I could fix it easy on the trail or at home. is this bad, do you disagree?

~Bry
 

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Discussion Starter #13
1. flipping and using upgraded hd steering (drag and tie rods) assembly's probably best...w/out going hy-steer.
so if I buy stuff for the original CJ I should be ok right like the ones I posted?
2. keep looking or have chyrsler re-flash it.
if I take it to the dealership they could make it work? or what do they do, and how much do you think it would cost?
5. use stock for now and proper o2 sensors. the engine needs them to run better. upgrade the header if u feel the need or have extra$.
I heard the o2 sensor dummies tell the comp. that they are working perfect. I was wondering if they were real. but the reason I ask is cause I don't have a cat. convertor and the ZJ engine usually has an o2 sensor after the cat.
6. open filiments are bad for offroading unless sealed in a cold air box. run a snorkel. intake manifold should have the air temp sensor.
I don't know about the snorkel, but maybe eventually, but what about for now, would those work you think?
7. lift shackles add 1/2 there given lift over stock shackles. dont run lift shackles on a srs, pinion and drive angles get highly affected. cj shackles were shorter then then yj shackles oem. boomarang rear shackles are a good option w/ matching height front shackle.
I did some thinking about what you said about lifting the front with SRS and that made alot of sence, so this is what I have come up with and tell me if you think it wil work: I think I could get some 1" lift shackles for the rear, and 1.5" longer shackles for the front (netting .75" of lift) and if I have a problem with that then I could degree shim the front. does this seem unnecessary or do you think it could work?
9. see 7#
the reason I ask about the front is cause I have the SRS and the shackles are leaning a bit frontwards, which would mean that the Jeep would have to lift itself to compress the spring, if I put on a boomerang shackle it would change the angle and make the shackle work more properly.
and thank you very much for your input, it helps me alot!!!

~Bry
 
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