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I'll Direc your TV
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9,208 Posts
Cool you were able to do that. While I would imagine a non greaseable would be stronger… how much? Is it enough to even be a limiting factor? Like…. Is a greasable 1410 the same in strength as a solid 1350?
Damn…. I need to hit up project farm on YouTube!!!!

root then final pass.
Also one of the caps off the u joint at the axle. This is original to first install. Cross is mint.
That would make an awesome video
 

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I'll Direc your TV
Joined
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9,208 Posts
Did not know of project farm. Thanks a lot, probably gonna waist a lot of time watching those videos...... lol
IMO, the best comparison videos on the internet. No biases, no shilling, even no actual recommendations. Just does the work and you make your own decisions. I've watched every video he posts
 

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Project Antitube
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1,213 Posts
I was technically more interested in the loading of the caps than I was the center breaking. I have not, and likely will not, ever buy universals that are drilled for anything that moves serious power. I'd rather have ungrease-able or ones where each cap has a needle zerk.

Most I saw fail, that weren't drilled, I think it was the needles getting crushed or the surface of the trunnion failing. Tack welding the caps in place definitely helped on S44 joints.

There was another machine I used across campus that I probably shouldn't have used... to measure heat in the joint running it at high RPM. Speculation was that you'd cook out the grease, gall the surface of the trunnion, and start eating needles. At the time Magna had a machine there for testing birfield/cv for some senior design project. Anyway, I can tell you that running a joint at high rpm above about 7 degrees really heats it up fast. I only ran two, a Neapco Brute Force and I think it was branded an "Extreme" from Spicer.

As far as I can tell, as long as the joint is secure and kept clean internally they will take a lot of abuse up to whatever limiting designs there were.
 
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