Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
1,293 Posts
Does it even appear that the pivot point will align near the cross member you need it to? Also, those are shitty front ends at best, track down a dana 44 if u want full size width. Even if that twin I beam is free, you'll be way ahead, by avoiding trying to install it. Heck, even if that axle had 200 dollars taped to it when you found it, your better off going solid axle, and avoid the headache your asking for. Good luck.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
its already four wheel drive i definatley want a full size axle in it i want it for a all around truck not a daily driver i would like to lean towards the bajha end of everything and i have done some more research and have found if you convert from the y style steering to a k style it really helps with wear on the tires as that being one of the biggest dislikes about it and i know theres other things to but my buddy convinced me to try and the axle being free im not out anything yet so why not check into it but ive found if you cut 3" off of the beam between the pumpkin and where the radious arm on the driver side and 3" off the pasenger side in the same place everything will bolt up the f150 and bronco's pivot bracket's are 2" differance from the ranger so all together it will be 8" shorter and take the main axle out of the passenger side of the d35 and it will be the right length for the 3" you cut out but thats about all ive found and i do have a 4" suspinsion lift to go with this i just dont know if its worth my time
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,329 Posts
its already four wheel drive i definatley want a full size axle in it i want it for a all around truck not a daily driver i would like to lean towards the bajha end of everything and i have done some more research and have found if you convert from the y style steering to a k style it really helps with wear on the tires as that being one of the biggest dislikes about it and i know theres other things to but my buddy convinced me to try and the axle being free im not out anything yet so why not check into it but ive found if you cut 3" off of the beam between the pumpkin and where the radious arm on the driver side and 3" off the pasenger side in the same place everything will bolt up the f150 and bronco's pivot bracket's are 2" differance from the ranger so all together it will be 8" shorter and take the main axle out of the passenger side of the d35 and it will be the right length for the 3" you cut out but thats about all ive found and i do have a 4" suspinsion lift to go with this i just dont know if its worth my time
can it be done? yes
should it be done? dunno
i don't know what you want to do with this truck, but from the sounds of what you're going to try, you'll gain only the strength of the full size pig.

probably not worth your time, you could swap a d44 in with less time
 

· BRONCATRON
Joined
·
452 Posts
First check out the tech section on The ranger station.com and check out dezert rangers.com that is where you will find the best help and less haters on the TTB 44. If your going to go threw all the work of narrowing the d44 beams DONT. just do the d44knuckle swap onto A 35ttb. The hubs and brakes are the week point on the 35 everything else is just as strong as the 44 beams and axles. The k or (super runner) style steering is ok for slower types of wheeling but a single swing set steering setup will get rid of almost all of your bump steer.

I'm currently building my own baja (style) ranger with 44ttb but I'm using custom brackets that mount the 44 beams how they would under the bronco and give a 2.5in lift. I'll be using single swing set steering and coil overs eventually.

Extended radius arms are a must if your looking for bigger travel numbers over stock
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i would like to keep the full width of the d44 so i was attempting to build my own bracketts to but i couldnt quit get things lined up im not a master fabricator either but ive never had to take anything to a shop and i have done several axle swaps and built my own control arms and steering just not any thing this big how far are you gonna have to move your pivot brackets for everything to line up cause i couldnt get the passenger side far enough under the truck so the tire sticks out an inch or two further but it dosnt look like i can afford to move the drivers side over it dosnt look like the drive line will line up i am still looking at long arm kits
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,293 Posts
I'm not hating on the idea. But the wheelin time to wrenchin time ratio is no good on this. You'll miss wheeling time because this swap is so demanding, compared to the level of performance this set up will provide, the investment isn't worth it. Good luck with project, I still think your bang for the buck, is a straight front axle swap.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i will definatly agree that the solid is the way to go for reliablty and less headache but i like to go fast and jump plus go crawling and playing in the mountains so honestly it will be one of a couple builds i would like to do but running short on funds this will be my all around truck for now and i already have the TTB D-44 and 9" for the rear so i dont wanna have to find a solid axle when in the future i would be doing this any way i just like to be differnt than everybody else and see what i can do but upon some research giant motor sports makes a conversion kit its kinda expensive though
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top