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Yep.
First Gen 4runner
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So, if you didn't know, and you probably didn't, I didn't... Mercedes uses liners on these engines. No over sized pistons are available, off brand replacements are over 100 bucks each.
I'm the king of finding things in junkyards, haven't seen one of these from GR to Pontiac in 8 months of looking twice weekly. Not even one I missed someone got before me. I'm guessing rust and poor maintenance claimed them awhile ago.
There is one longblock available near Flint for 200, pulled for low compression, so I may well end up in the same boat. There is a set of pistons and rods on ebay, but they come in 3 sizes, 0, 1, or 2. And you may get all of one, or a mix of any in an engine. Mine was all 1's and 2's, new pistons could be all 0 for all I know. Then they'd be .002 undersize before I honed it.
I'm a real, do as little as possible kind of guy, slam it together, have fun. This kind of shit gives me anxiety, because it's precisely how projects wind up half finished, for sale, trying to desperately get 50 cents on the dollar because "life happened".
But, the wife is on board, she very much wants a small diesel 4x4, so.. I gave pulling the liners myself a whirl. Paying a shop 500 bucks to pull and 500 to install wasn't in the cards at all.
Ran some hot beads up and down, sat there had a beer or 3 until they stopped snap, crackle, and popping... I welded a little (large) turd in the bottom of each for a chisel to hit... Once they were cold, they tapped out fairly easily... Took about 2 hours with waiting and misc struggling of running out of wire, etc.
![278012]()
![278013]()
![278014]()
I'm the king of finding things in junkyards, haven't seen one of these from GR to Pontiac in 8 months of looking twice weekly. Not even one I missed someone got before me. I'm guessing rust and poor maintenance claimed them awhile ago.
There is one longblock available near Flint for 200, pulled for low compression, so I may well end up in the same boat. There is a set of pistons and rods on ebay, but they come in 3 sizes, 0, 1, or 2. And you may get all of one, or a mix of any in an engine. Mine was all 1's and 2's, new pistons could be all 0 for all I know. Then they'd be .002 undersize before I honed it.
I'm a real, do as little as possible kind of guy, slam it together, have fun. This kind of shit gives me anxiety, because it's precisely how projects wind up half finished, for sale, trying to desperately get 50 cents on the dollar because "life happened".
But, the wife is on board, she very much wants a small diesel 4x4, so.. I gave pulling the liners myself a whirl. Paying a shop 500 bucks to pull and 500 to install wasn't in the cards at all.
Ran some hot beads up and down, sat there had a beer or 3 until they stopped snap, crackle, and popping... I welded a little (large) turd in the bottom of each for a chisel to hit... Once they were cold, they tapped out fairly easily... Took about 2 hours with waiting and misc struggling of running out of wire, etc.
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You definitely share some cool information. Thank you.
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So I wasted a bunch of time doing a bunch of crazy math to determine how cold I needed to get the liners and hot hot I needed to get the block in order to just drop them in without a press.
A differential of 300 F should have done it, in a perfect world. I don't live in that world. I fumble, trip, generally screw up things thanks to Murphy. Talking to a few other people who have done it, they had all tried that, and failed, and bought a press.
So I hopped on Marketplace, and found a NIB 12 ton HF press listed for 120 bucks. It had been up for 3weeks, so I offered 75 picked up in the morning and he took it. Then I showed up with 60 bucks like an asshole and he didn't care so... For less than the cost of a bunch of weird science, I now own a press I don't really want lol.
![278023]()
A differential of 300 F should have done it, in a perfect world. I don't live in that world. I fumble, trip, generally screw up things thanks to Murphy. Talking to a few other people who have done it, they had all tried that, and failed, and bought a press.
So I hopped on Marketplace, and found a NIB 12 ton HF press listed for 120 bucks. It had been up for 3weeks, so I offered 75 picked up in the morning and he took it. Then I showed up with 60 bucks like an asshole and he didn't care so... For less than the cost of a bunch of weird science, I now own a press I don't really want lol.
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love it !!!
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2,278 Posts
Thanks guy's! I'm glad people are following along and I can do my part to limp forums along lol.
So I installed 4 liners, no real issues, but they didn't send one, and I'm just stuck waiting on the fifth to show up.
![278045]()
So I installed 4 liners, no real issues, but they didn't send one, and I'm just stuck waiting on the fifth to show up.
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The liners are in, I'll probably take the 5 best pistons and everything else down to the machine shop tomorrow.
In the meantime I continued work on the trans adapter, for the slow kids in the back, the wood is meant to be a template... I care alot less about throwing out a 8 dollar piece of plywood than I do a 75 dollar plate of alloy. It's easier to cut and handle also.
I had some complex ideas of how to do this, then I remembered I already had an adapter from Mercedes lol.
So I clamped that to the wood, drilled the pertinent holes out, and test fit it to the block.
Once I had that, I cut the hole for the crank flange, and installed a Mercedes crank to Toyota input adapter I 3D printed for trials. I don't have any woodworking tools, so I cut this with a body saw and a metal jig saw blade lol.
I didn't care for the way the adapter fit out worked though, so I drew up another to simply use the Toyota pilot bearing and printed it last night. Hopefully this makes it a little easier to find center.
I won't know until it comes back from the machine shop though, but that's the nice thing about a 3d printer, a few minutes in CAD, a few hours of unsupervised print time, and you can try again for 2.00 in filament.
Here's pics.
![278073]()
![278074]()
![278075]()
![278076]()
![278077]()
![278078]()
![278079]()
In the meantime I continued work on the trans adapter, for the slow kids in the back, the wood is meant to be a template... I care alot less about throwing out a 8 dollar piece of plywood than I do a 75 dollar plate of alloy. It's easier to cut and handle also.
I had some complex ideas of how to do this, then I remembered I already had an adapter from Mercedes lol.
So I clamped that to the wood, drilled the pertinent holes out, and test fit it to the block.
Once I had that, I cut the hole for the crank flange, and installed a Mercedes crank to Toyota input adapter I 3D printed for trials. I don't have any woodworking tools, so I cut this with a body saw and a metal jig saw blade lol.
I didn't care for the way the adapter fit out worked though, so I drew up another to simply use the Toyota pilot bearing and printed it last night. Hopefully this makes it a little easier to find center.
I won't know until it comes back from the machine shop though, but that's the nice thing about a 3d printer, a few minutes in CAD, a few hours of unsupervised print time, and you can try again for 2.00 in filament.
Here's pics.
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You are a pretty smart dude.
I like following your ingenuity.... Thanks
I like following your ingenuity.... Thanks
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2,278 Posts
Sometimes I outsmart myself lol, but hopefully this works out and people can use it to their own ends.
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2,278 Posts
This went through a few revisions, it's easier to print another crank adapter than to try and file one of the prints, if it were metal, I'd just shave it.
It's coming together, the flywheel does clear the "adapter" by maybe .060, so idk if I'll space it or not with a small shim.
Next step is to plug the holes and redrill the flywheel. I forgot when I bought the flywheel that the 3.4 is larger than the 3.0. I have a 3.0 one here, if the 3.4 is heavier, I might go swap them out. Cost is only 10 bucks between them.
![278091]()
![278092]()
It's coming together, the flywheel does clear the "adapter" by maybe .060, so idk if I'll space it or not with a small shim.
Next step is to plug the holes and redrill the flywheel. I forgot when I bought the flywheel that the 3.4 is larger than the 3.0. I have a 3.0 one here, if the 3.4 is heavier, I might go swap them out. Cost is only 10 bucks between them.
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I thought I updated this the other day, but the site was being flaky, adapter is done, working on the pilot bearing details now.
![278151]()
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It's probably going to stall out and go pretty slowly from here lol.
I have more time than money, or at least I'm willing to spend more time than money, the trip to the machine shop I expect to be quite costly, for my cheap ass at least. And take quite a while as well.
I have more time than money, or at least I'm willing to spend more time than money, the trip to the machine shop I expect to be quite costly, for my cheap ass at least. And take quite a while as well.
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Not much in the way of updates really, block has been at the machine shop 5 or 6 weeks I think, everyone got COVID, blah blah... I hope to have it back next week, I don't have all the parts to assemble the shortblock anyway.
I was up there on my lot cleaning up before winter, got sidetracked and started goofing around with the truck.
When I pulled the engine, I cut everything, I'm not going to be able to use any of it anyway, really triggered folks on Facebook who don't seem to grasp fabrication though.
So the core support and bumper centers were cut out so I could pull the 22re through the hole more easily. I've seen people use the Mercedes radiator in their swaps, so I was curious how it would fit, so I tossed it in the hole, not even close lol. Set myself up for plenty of brilliant "why not just get a radiator that fits" comments though lol... Like, yes, they sell Mercedes to Toyota radiators at Autozone, right next to the plastidip bruh...
![278264]()
After taking another inch or so from each side, it dropped in,
![278265]()
In that pic, it's down behind the front crossmember, when sitting on it, it's too high still. So that crossmember may come out and be rebuilt lower, won't really know until spring when the engine goes in where the fan lands though.
Plenty of room for the hood to close and the grille to go back on though.
For whatever reason, this pic led to a bunch of, "OMG THAT BUMPER WOULD NEVER PROTECT YOU" comments, that were hilarious, since even whole, it's made out of single wall stamped sheetmetal and wouldn't withstand a goat kick, let alone a vehicle impact lol.
![278266]()
I don't really care for my 4runner to look so much like a Ram D50, so I grabbed a Hilux grille for no real good reason, but it also fits fine. Looks cooler too.
![278267]()
I found this winch plate I forgot I bought about 5 years ago, it was on sale for 28 bucks at Harbor Freight, looked like the bolt holes on the rear were pretty close so I toted it up there last night to see, close, but no cigar, I'll have to fab a whole front bumper, which is all wasted effort if I have to move that crossmember.
![278268]()
I was up there on my lot cleaning up before winter, got sidetracked and started goofing around with the truck.
When I pulled the engine, I cut everything, I'm not going to be able to use any of it anyway, really triggered folks on Facebook who don't seem to grasp fabrication though.
So the core support and bumper centers were cut out so I could pull the 22re through the hole more easily. I've seen people use the Mercedes radiator in their swaps, so I was curious how it would fit, so I tossed it in the hole, not even close lol. Set myself up for plenty of brilliant "why not just get a radiator that fits" comments though lol... Like, yes, they sell Mercedes to Toyota radiators at Autozone, right next to the plastidip bruh...
After taking another inch or so from each side, it dropped in,
In that pic, it's down behind the front crossmember, when sitting on it, it's too high still. So that crossmember may come out and be rebuilt lower, won't really know until spring when the engine goes in where the fan lands though.
Plenty of room for the hood to close and the grille to go back on though.
For whatever reason, this pic led to a bunch of, "OMG THAT BUMPER WOULD NEVER PROTECT YOU" comments, that were hilarious, since even whole, it's made out of single wall stamped sheetmetal and wouldn't withstand a goat kick, let alone a vehicle impact lol.
I don't really care for my 4runner to look so much like a Ram D50, so I grabbed a Hilux grille for no real good reason, but it also fits fine. Looks cooler too.
I found this winch plate I forgot I bought about 5 years ago, it was on sale for 28 bucks at Harbor Freight, looked like the bolt holes on the rear were pretty close so I toted it up there last night to see, close, but no cigar, I'll have to fab a whole front bumper, which is all wasted effort if I have to move that crossmember.
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5,589 Posts
Thanks for the update. Open minded build continues. I like it so much more than just doing what everyone else does.....
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2,278 Posts
That might be my super power lol, I've never had a Toyota, so I'm just out here doing whatever makes sense to me
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2,278 Posts
Alright, time for a holiday update!
Block came back from the machine shop, no issues there, I ordered a lower end gasket kit and the rod bearings I didn't have yet to jam it all together. Mercedes puts pictures on the rings to show where they go, fancy.
Top end is just sitting there, still need to go through the head, rebuild injectors, the timing chain is like 200 bucks... Ick... So it'll still be awhile lol.
![278401]()
![278402]()
![278403]()
![278405]()
![278406]()
Block came back from the machine shop, no issues there, I ordered a lower end gasket kit and the rod bearings I didn't have yet to jam it all together. Mercedes puts pictures on the rings to show where they go, fancy.
Top end is just sitting there, still need to go through the head, rebuild injectors, the timing chain is like 200 bucks... Ick... So it'll still be awhile lol.
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