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Hey, you can't knock how much "research" he does. There's a good chance he's started 4 or 5 threads on this subject alone...Are you really going to start giving advice on things? :finger: :chauncy:
STFU
:sonicjay:
Hey, you can't knock how much "research" he does. There's a good chance he's started 4 or 5 threads on this subject alone...Are you really going to start giving advice on things? :finger: :chauncy:
STFU
No shit, can't believe that guy would try to offer advice :sonicjay:Yah, WOW... Somebody forgot his meds this morning...:fish:
he might just be... HARDCOREZ 1%erYou might want to look at suspension geometry or better poly bushings because mine are 3+ years old and are just fine still![]()
Couple things. Rubber on one end is bullshit. If your shit is built right you shouldn't have any vibes. JJ's on both ends is far stronger. When I ran the stock arms the rubber was never the limiting factor for flex so the added range of motion for a JJ is moot also. For short arms 2" tube with a .25 wall is overkill. Usually when a factory mount has it welds break is when they are used to limit flex and it fatigues them to the point of failure. But the biggest thing incorrect is going with left and right hand threads on a link. For a track bar maybe, that way you can adjust the axle left and right easier as things settle, but for links on a normal wheeler they are an unnecessary pain in the ass. You build your suspension, take measurements, build your links accordingly, put on vehicle, re measure, then if need be drop one end and adjust a bit. Once they're on you're never going to adjust them again.Id suggest JJs on the axle side and rubber bushings on the frame side. For tube 2" .250 wall lowers and 1.5" .120 wall uppers. The stock mounts will be fine on the street but will rip off eventually when wheeling. Rubber bushings won't limit flex much. JJs on each end will be better but you will feel vibes. Also as noted due one RH thread and one LH on each arm so you can adjust them without removing the arms
Truth ^Couple things. Rubber on one end is bullshit. If your shit is built right you shouldn't have any vibes. JJ's on both ends is far stronger. When I ran the stock arms the rubber was never the limiting factor for flex so the added range of motion for a JJ is moot also. For short arms 2" tube with a .25 wall is overkill. Usually when a factory mount has it welds break is when they are used to limit flex and it fatigues them to the point of failure. But the biggest thing incorrect is going with left and right hand threads on a link. For a track bar maybe, that way you can adjust the axle left and right easier as things settle, but for links on a normal wheeler they are an unnecessary pain in the ass. You build your suspension, take measurements, build your links accordingly, put on vehicle, re measure, then if need be drop one end and adjust a bit. Once they're on you're never going to adjust them again.
:sonicjay:Are you really going to start giving advice on things? :finger: :chauncy:
STFU
I'm still nice! :sonicjay: I just hate it when people that don't really know what they're talking about spread the same bullshit "facts", like you have to use a factory rubber bushing on one end to eliminate any vibes.I remember when Tab used to be nice..,
:Teehee: