[8PTBUCK]

Ballistic joints any good? That's what I am currently looking at. I know I will need weldable tube inserts, but don't know what size I need.

If I am going with a 1.5" tube ID, then I would need the OD of the insert to be 1.5" correct? I guess this is where I am getting lost... trying to match up the inserts and joints with the size tubing I am going to go with. Can somebody take a minute and maybe tell me what I need (or would be good enough for how I will be using the Jeep)?

 

[Lousypirate]

why not just go ruffstuff?

 

[8PTBUCK]

I was thinking RuffStuff too. I just like how the Ballistic joints are greaseable and have those like side bushings to help reduce noise? RuffStuff is all heims and I think that would be a lot more of a rough ride... not that it really matters, but just thought the Ballistic joints looked a little better. Would I be safe to go with heims at both ends?

 

[Lousypirate]

I've seen it all different ways. heims are stronger but harsher, bushings softer quieter and weaker

I've heard enough from ballistic to avoid service, I would go polyperformance or ruffstuff.

 

[JohnnyJ]

Bending 2x0.25 sucks... it's hell on a bender. Further, the bend doesn't make the geometry any better. When doing suspension design, you can put in all the bends you want, but the imaginary line between the two points is what matters.

The only reason I could see needing a bend was if the control arm was going to interfere with a spring bucket or something along those lines.

If you plan to weld in bungs to make it easier, you might as well buy johnny joints for all of them. I've ridden in jeeps with johnny joints on both ends, and it didn't seem to make the ride any worse. It's not like you are modifying a cadillac to start with.

Another option is a thread-in poly bushing. We took the risk and ordered a poly bushing from Ballistic and received it, but based on their past history I'm not going to recommend using them in any way except at your own risk. I think it was about the same price as a johnny joint, but we needed the poly bushing to keep our track bar from flopping around, so we went that route.

Adjustable rear upper control arms are beneficial for tuning out driveline vibrations, especially after a SYE has been installed. Adjustable front upper control arms could allow for correcting front driveline angles. One thing to take note of is that I beleieve the bushings are smaller up top than on the lowers, but it's been a while since I've messed with the stock stuff.

 

[8PTBUCK]

Awesome info, thanks JJ.

Well I guess I will stay away from Ballistic then.

What size DOM would you recommend? I Just need a size that will be strong enough for daily driving and the sand dunes Lol.

So it sounds like it will be beneficial to have both uppers and lowers adjustable. How can I tell if the JJ that I order will fit in the stock frame/axle mount?

 

[Tab]

Ballistic ends have a HORRIBLE track record as far as longevity goes. they don't last for shit after you rebuild them either. Not to mention Ballistic fabrications terrible customer service and long history of fucking people over. I run Johnny joints and have for 5 years and they are all still very tight, not a daily driver though. Ruffstuff has awesome deals on rod ends with the tubing adapters and mis-alignment joints as a package. They are also running a good sale that ends today I see.

 

[8PTBUCK]

Ballistic ends have a HORRIBLE track record as far as longevity goes. they don't last for shit after you rebuild them either. Not to mention Ballistic fabrications terrible customer service and long history of fucking people over. I run Johnny joints and have for 5 years and they are all still very tight, not a daily driver though. Ruffstuff has awesome deals on rod ends with the tubing adapters and mis-alignment joints as a package. They are also running a good sale that ends today I see.

What are the misalignment joints? I saw them and wasn't quite sure what they did.

 

[whiterhino]

I had ballistic joints, now I don't. There is a reason. I now have currie jj's & am happy. I also had .250 wall lowers. They bent. You can say dunes only but we all know what happens.......
I went 1.75 x .375 wall. They work perfect for tapping & installing 1.25 shank jj's

 

[8PTBUCK]

Am i better off tapping a solid bar or getting tube and weld in bungs?

I seriously hate this lol. Gets frustrating trying to figure this out... I feel like I'm making this bigger than it really is.

 

[Tab]

The mis alignment spacers allow the rod ends to get more usable angle and they are designed to take up the extra space inside the bracket since rod ends are thinner than a Johnny joint style.

 

[Tab]

Am i better off tapping a solid bar or getting tube and weld in bungs?

I seriously hate this lol. Gets frustrating trying to figure this out... I feel like I'm making this bigger than it really is.

You may be better off just buying an off the shelf arm than building one. By time you buy all the stuff and weld it up you will probably not save a whole lot of money in the end. There are a ton of companies that make links ready to go, unless you are doing something custom.

 

[wakeboard76]

You may be better off just buying an off the shelf arm than building one. By time you buy all the stuff and weld it up you will probably not save a whole lot of money in the end. There are a ton of companies that make links ready to go, unless you are doing something custom.

x2. I was in the same boat 8 months ago, purchased a full set (8) of currie control arms with JJ in both ends. The cost seems high until you start adding up the cost of rod ends, weld in bungs, DOM, jam nuts, etc. They will give you all the adjustability you may need, and more flex than the rest of your suspension can provide. I went from stock arms to these, I have noticed zero difference in noise, vibration or harshness and I daily drive my tj on 37's.

 

[8PTBUCK]

x2. I was in the same boat 8 months ago, purchased a full set (8) of currie control arms with JJ in both ends. The cost seems high until you start adding up the cost of rod ends, weld in bungs, DOM, jam nuts, etc. They will give you all the adjustability you may need, and more flex than the rest of your suspension can provide. I went from stock arms to these, I have noticed zero difference in noise, vibration or harshness and I daily drive my tj on 37's.

I was thinking about just buying a set of new Currie arms. $1000 is a lot of money though. I feel like I could get away cheaper if I do it myself. But then again, it would be easier to just buy them and just throw them on.

 

[lgottler]

I was thinking about just buying a set of new Currie arms. $1000 is a lot of money though. I feel like I could get away cheaper if I do it myself. But then again, it would be easier to just buy them and just throw them on.

When I did mine I used factory jeep lower control arm bushings pressed into .25 wall tubing I machined myself. Bushings were free and I used only used ones, including the ones originally on my tj from the factory. Maybe its luck, but I've never had one "blow out" or go bad (I made custom extended lower arms I ran for a while, then a radius arm setup, now custom linked).

As far as articulation, when I was testing for bind and fit, I had the rear center diff on my floor jack and had my 6yo daughter move the end of the axle from all the way up to all the way down to the floor (about 6" beyond my shock travel). Maybe having a double triangulated 4 link made for very little bind, the 3 link front was same way but used one heim for adjustment on the upper link frame side, it took more effort, but were talking a few pounds more force to move it.

I don't like rebuilding stuff, and the idea of having to rebuild loose joints seems like a lot of work. To pay that much for something I'll need to rebuild after a couple michigan winters or wheeling seasons...

My .02

 

[JohnnyJ]

Ruff Stuff now has short arm replacements, not a kit.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SFLEX-LF.html $190

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/DFLEX-LF.html $280

 

[feva4u]

Ruff Stuff now has short arm replacements, not a kit.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SFLEX-LF.html $190

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/DFLEX-LF.html $280

"We do not Powder Coat them, they are made for users not posers. Rattle can paint can be touched up much easier after you scrape them over a rock! "
:sonicjay: Amen Dan!

 

[2fst4you]

Id suggest JJs on the axle side and rubber bushings on the frame side. For tube 2" .250 wall lowers and 1.5" .120 wall uppers. The stock mounts will be fine on the street but will rip off eventually when wheeling. Rubber bushings won't limit flex much. JJs on each end will be better but you will feel vibes. Also as noted due one RH thread and one LH on each arm so you can adjust them without removing the arms

 

[Mr. Beefy]

Id suggest JJs on the axle side and rubber bushings on the frame side. For tube 2" .250 wall lowers and 1.5" .120 wall uppers. The stock mounts will be fine on the street but will rip off eventually when wheeling. Rubber bushings won't limit flex much. JJs on each end will be better but you will feel vibes. Also as noted due one RH thread and one LH on each arm so you can adjust them without removing the arms

Are you really going to start giving advice on things? :finger: :chauncy:
STFU

 

[JohnnyJ]

"We do not Powder Coat them, they are made for users not posers. Rattle can paint can be touched up much easier after you scrape them over a rock! "
:sonicjay: Amen Dan!

I missed that, but that is an awesome comment.