Ballistic ends have a HORRIBLE track record as far as longevity goes. they don't last for shit after you rebuild them either. Not to mention Ballistic fabrications terrible customer service and long history of fucking people over. I run Johnny joints and have for 5 years and they are all still very tight, not a daily driver though. Ruffstuff has awesome deals on rod ends with the tubing adapters and mis-alignment joints as a package. They are also running a good sale that ends today I see.
DIY Control arms
I am long over due for control arms, at least lowers. I plan on making them myself, or at least have them made. I can get DOM tubing for pretty much at cost so I am really just in need of rod ends. That is where I am having a problem. I don't know if I want to do Johnny joints, bushings, or whatever else I could do. I have been reading up on other forums and I guess I haven't really found my answer.
So my question is, what size DOM tubing would be good for LCA's, what kind of rod ends will be my best option, and can I used factory CA mounts (frame/axle) or would I need new ones?
This Jeep will be my daily driver for about another year, at least just to get me through the winter so I can park my truck. I won't be doing any hard wheeling until I build one tons and such. So for the most part, it will see street use and mild trails.
I read that for a DD, it is good to run a JJ and a bushing on each CA. I also read that JJ's can wear out (or maybe it was heims) if used on CA's on a DD. I guess the road wear really wears them out. I like that you can rebuild JJ's, but I don't know who to get them from if that's what I end up going with. I want to do this right, and be able to use my rod ends again when I finally stretch the Jeep so all I would have to get is tubing.
My Jeep still has the stock CA's and the stock frame/axle mounts. The arms are bent up to hell, and I think the bushings are pretty much done for. Can I use the stock mounts on both frame and axle for JJ's/heims/bushings? I know the factory pressed mounts are junk, but like I said this will only be a DD through this winter so I'm not worried about them. No more hard wheeling until I get big boy axles.
That is all I can think of for now. I just want to be pointed in the right direction so I do this right the first time. Thanks for any and all help. It's greatly appreciated!
So my question is, what size DOM tubing would be good for LCA's, what kind of rod ends will be my best option, and can I used factory CA mounts (frame/axle) or would I need new ones?
This Jeep will be my daily driver for about another year, at least just to get me through the winter so I can park my truck. I won't be doing any hard wheeling until I build one tons and such. So for the most part, it will see street use and mild trails.
I read that for a DD, it is good to run a JJ and a bushing on each CA. I also read that JJ's can wear out (or maybe it was heims) if used on CA's on a DD. I guess the road wear really wears them out. I like that you can rebuild JJ's, but I don't know who to get them from if that's what I end up going with. I want to do this right, and be able to use my rod ends again when I finally stretch the Jeep so all I would have to get is tubing.
My Jeep still has the stock CA's and the stock frame/axle mounts. The arms are bent up to hell, and I think the bushings are pretty much done for. Can I use the stock mounts on both frame and axle for JJ's/heims/bushings? I know the factory pressed mounts are junk, but like I said this will only be a DD through this winter so I'm not worried about them. No more hard wheeling until I get big boy axles.
That is all I can think of for now. I just want to be pointed in the right direction so I do this right the first time. Thanks for any and all help. It's greatly appreciated!
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The mis alignment spacers allow the rod ends to get more usable angle and they are designed to take up the extra space inside the bracket since rod ends are thinner than a Johnny joint style.
You may be better off just buying an off the shelf arm than building one. By time you buy all the stuff and weld it up you will probably not save a whole lot of money in the end. There are a ton of companies that make links ready to go, unless you are doing something custom.Am i better off tapping a solid bar or getting tube and weld in bungs?
I seriously hate this lol. Gets frustrating trying to figure this out... I feel like I'm making this bigger than it really is.
Couple things. Rubber on one end is bullshit. If your shit is built right you shouldn't have any vibes. JJ's on both ends is far stronger. When I ran the stock arms the rubber was never the limiting factor for flex so the added range of motion for a JJ is moot also. For short arms 2" tube with a .25 wall is overkill. Usually when a factory mount has it welds break is when they are used to limit flex and it fatigues them to the point of failure. But the biggest thing incorrect is going with left and right hand threads on a link. For a track bar maybe, that way you can adjust the axle left and right easier as things settle, but for links on a normal wheeler they are an unnecessary pain in the ass. You build your suspension, take measurements, build your links accordingly, put on vehicle, re measure, then if need be drop one end and adjust a bit. Once they're on you're never going to adjust them again.Id suggest JJs on the axle side and rubber bushings on the frame side. For tube 2" .250 wall lowers and 1.5" .120 wall uppers. The stock mounts will be fine on the street but will rip off eventually when wheeling. Rubber bushings won't limit flex much. JJs on each end will be better but you will feel vibes. Also as noted due one RH thread and one LH on each arm so you can adjust them without removing the arms
I'm still nice! :sonicjay: I just hate it when people that don't really know what they're talking about spread the same bullshit "facts", like you have to use a factory rubber bushing on one end to eliminate any vibes.I remember when Tab used to be nice..,
:Teehee:
1 - 5 of 55 Posts
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