Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest banner

DIY Control arms

6759 Views 54 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  chadcooper55
I am long over due for control arms, at least lowers. I plan on making them myself, or at least have them made. I can get DOM tubing for pretty much at cost so I am really just in need of rod ends. That is where I am having a problem. I don't know if I want to do Johnny joints, bushings, or whatever else I could do. I have been reading up on other forums and I guess I haven't really found my answer.

So my question is, what size DOM tubing would be good for LCA's, what kind of rod ends will be my best option, and can I used factory CA mounts (frame/axle) or would I need new ones?

This Jeep will be my daily driver for about another year, at least just to get me through the winter so I can park my truck. I won't be doing any hard wheeling until I build one tons and such. So for the most part, it will see street use and mild trails.

I read that for a DD, it is good to run a JJ and a bushing on each CA. I also read that JJ's can wear out (or maybe it was heims) if used on CA's on a DD. I guess the road wear really wears them out. I like that you can rebuild JJ's, but I don't know who to get them from if that's what I end up going with. I want to do this right, and be able to use my rod ends again when I finally stretch the Jeep so all I would have to get is tubing.

My Jeep still has the stock CA's and the stock frame/axle mounts. The arms are bent up to hell, and I think the bushings are pretty much done for. Can I use the stock mounts on both frame and axle for JJ's/heims/bushings? I know the factory pressed mounts are junk, but like I said this will only be a DD through this winter so I'm not worried about them. No more hard wheeling until I get big boy axles.

That is all I can think of for now. I just want to be pointed in the right direction so I do this right the first time. Thanks for any and all help. It's greatly appreciated!
See less See more
1 - 6 of 55 Posts
"We do not Powder Coat them, they are made for users not posers. Rattle can paint can be touched up much easier after you scrape them over a rock! "
:sonicjay: Amen Dan!
Yah, WOW... Somebody forgot his meds this morning...:fish:
No shit, can't believe that guy would try to offer advice :sonicjay:
You might want to look at suspension geometry or better poly bushings because mine are 3+ years old and are just fine still :confused:
I wheeled many hours with THE hardcore 1%er and didn't tear the poly bushings up :sonicjay:
Couple things. Rubber on one end is bullshit. If your shit is built right you shouldn't have any vibes. JJ's on both ends is far stronger. When I ran the stock arms the rubber was never the limiting factor for flex so the added range of motion for a JJ is moot also. For short arms 2" tube with a .25 wall is overkill. Usually when a factory mount has it welds break is when they are used to limit flex and it fatigues them to the point of failure. But the biggest thing incorrect is going with left and right hand threads on a link. For a track bar maybe, that way you can adjust the axle left and right easier as things settle, but for links on a normal wheeler they are an unnecessary pain in the ass. You build your suspension, take measurements, build your links accordingly, put on vehicle, re measure, then if need be drop one end and adjust a bit. Once they're on you're never going to adjust them again.
Truth ^
1 - 6 of 55 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.