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Irish R&B Singer
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4,797 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i drive a 92 yj.......

every now and then i go driveing through the woods up here at work to make sure the 4x4 is still working....well today i put it in 4x4 and no indicator saying is in......sounded and felt like the t-case engaged but nothing from the tires....couldn't feel it in the stearing either....so i bring it back to work and lift it up whit the forklift and fire it up, put in inf 4x4 and 1st gear....get out and the shaft to the front diff is spinning but nothing from the tires......so im assumeing that its the vaccum disco for the hubs.....does that sound right to u guys and is there a cheap fix for it so i can get my 4x4 back if its is the problem
 

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Premium Member
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2,435 Posts
i drive a 92 yj.......

every now and then i go driveing through the woods up here at work to make sure the 4x4 is still working....well today i put it in 4x4 and no indicator saying is in......sounded and felt like the t-case engaged but nothing from the tires....couldn't feel it in the stearing either....so i bring it back to work and lift it up whit the forklift and fire it up, put in inf 4x4 and 1st gear....get out and the shaft to the front diff is spinning but nothing from the tires......so im assumeing that its the vaccum disco for the hubs.....does that sound right to u guys and is there a cheap fix for it so i can get my 4x4 back if its is the problem
4x4 posi lock or convert to solid right shaft no disco.:thumb:
 

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1,983 Posts
There's a couple of parts that need to work for the front end to engage - need vacuum, and need the flimsy little shift fork to engage the collar on the shaft and lock the two halves together. Junkyard parts are easy to find, but the 4x4 posilock and a replacement cast iron shift fork gets rid of the vacuum and gives you direct control over the shaft engagement.
 

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Posi lock is a cable that controls the engagement of the two axle shafts instead of relying on the vacuum-activated parts that came stock. That way you can keep it in 4LO but disconnect the front axle for a tight turn.
 

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Reed my teef
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posi-lock= waste of your hard earned money. grab yourself a pass side shaft out of a non-disco d30. problem solved forever.:thumb:
 

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.
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posi-lock= waste of your hard earned money. grab yourself a pass side shaft out of a non-disco d30. problem solved forever.:thumb:
You don't even need to do that. Just remove the disco cover and move the fork to the engeged position. Put a long bolt in the cover where the short bolt is(it's the bollt that seems to hold nothing) and it will lock the fork in place. I've ran mine like this for a while and I'm not gentle at all, no problems. If you want better instructions, pm me.
 

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You don't even need to do that. Just remove the disco cover and move the fork to the engeged position. Put a long bolt in the cover where the short bolt is(it's the bollt that seems to hold nothing) and it will lock the fork in place. I've ran mine like this for a while and I'm not gentle at all, no problems. If you want better instructions, pm me.
X2 i think thats what a freind of mine did works great:thumb:
 

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Geocache Addict
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Once I replaced the vacuum switch that is operated by the t-case and that fixed my non-engagement issue. Later I went with the Posi-Lok cable. That allowed me to get rid of about 30 feet (no kidding) of vacuum line. In addition, I added an Aussie Locker to my D30 and since I still have the disconnect...no clicks from my locker on turns unless the Posi-Lok is engaged.

There are several cheaper methods around your problem, and some are listed above (there is also a cheaper, home-made, Posi-Lok), but I like my Posi-Lok. I think I remember that you work in Ypsi so if you wanna stop by and see what I got, or if you need/want a hand working on your rig, let me know and I'll PM you my contact info.
 

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Irish R&B Singer
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4,797 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Once I replaced the vacuum switch that is operated by the t-case and that fixed my non-engagement issue. Later I went with the Posi-Lok cable. That allowed me to get rid of about 30 feet (no kidding) of vacuum line. In addition, I added an Aussie Locker to my D30 and since I still have the disconnect...no clicks from my locker on turns unless the Posi-Lok is engaged.

There are several cheaper methods around your problem, and some are listed above (there is also a cheaper, home-made, Posi-Lok), but I like my Posi-Lok. I think I remember that you work in Ypsi so if you wanna stop by and see what I got, or if you need/want a hand working on your rig, let me know and I'll PM you my contact info.
gonna have to dig through my manual to see where that vacuum switch is and look at the cost of a new one compared to the posi lock and new fork......i herd the stock forks suck anyways........does the vacuum switch control the light that tells u its in 4x4 or is that down in the axle??

ps i like what u did the most.....cause this is my dd i dont wannt "rig" it.....i might have to come by and look at it sometime.....i have other issues i need to work out with the jeep first before i fix the front axle......im just makeing a list of things and prices of things that need fixed
 

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The vacuum switch simply directs the vacuum from the transfer case to the front axle disconnect when you shift it to 4wd. The electrical switch that operates your dashboard light is located on the front axle at the passenger-tire-side of the disconnect. I broke a wire on it while I was wheeling Drummond Island last month...crimped on a new connector at the campground and my light worked again. I knew I was in 4wd, tho, because I shift my t-case first and my rig pulls to the left (due to my Aussie Locker) then I engage my Posi-Lok and it straightens out (4wd light or no 4wd light).
 

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Irish R&B Singer
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4,797 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
what led me to checking it in the first place was i went back into my woods and threw it in 4x4 and the light didn't come on......so i tried turning and could tell it wasn't in......so i cancled that trip back there and made a trip to gl4x4 to ask questions :)
 
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