[whiterhino]

Lots of people build their own. I've seen them built out of plastic barrels and trash cans with draw bars stuck through the middle. I knew I wanted one so I rolled it in with my 0% financing and called it a day. I could have easily built one but the time and materials just weren't worth it to me for the $3.50 a month it cost to roll into the financing. I did have to modify this one to work with my quick hitch but that wasn't a big deal. FWIW my dad got a cheap one from Titan Attachments that he's happy with and worked with the QH right out of the box. Mine comes in right around 600lb. 100lb for the box, plus 500lb of concrete, old brake rotors and drums, etc. I offered to help hide the body of my buddy's cunt of an ex wife in there for him too, but he didn't take me up on it. By now he probably wishes he had since she's still alive and still a cunt.

The tool storage is just a $17 stackable bin from Menard's held down to eye bolts with a couple bungees, that way I can remove it when I'm storing the ballast box outside and not have to worry about the stuff in it getting trashed. I left the concrete about 1" below the top of the ballast box so it nests in there nicely and doesn't budge.

These are the chainsaw mounts. Each one is 2 pieces of leftover Trex decking with the center hogged out. They work great, just made a huge mess of plastic routering the centers out. I angled them for ground clearance and ease of access from next to the machine, but if you're using the rear PTO you'd want to orient them more vertical so they clear the shaft.

Crimeny, can't you even deburr them before you bolt them on?

 

[bbaXJ]

Crimeny, can't you even deburr them before you bolt them on?

I'm gonna deburr your face, old man. Don't make me build another ballast box.

 

[wrath]

I use home made wheel weights. I made them out of modified truck drums and filled them with lead. There are four, the outer ones bolt to the inner ones. I wish I'd made quick attach plates for the inner ones also instead of just bolting them direct to the wheel. It's a PITA as an older person to get the inners hung so I only take them off when I'm worried about the grass. I have a ballast box of sorts, but it is permanently mounted to the tractor and I hang modified suitcase weights off it.

 

[JohnnyJ]

I put together a ballast box with stuff that I mostly had on hand. Since the pictures I painted it and threw 9 cements blocks in it. I may fill the voids with concrete, but I didn't want to fully commit to that.

 

[whiterhino]

What's the PVC for?

 

[JohnnyJ]

Shovel or rake holder.

 

[bbaXJ]

Looks good, the fork pockets are a great add-on too! Thank god you deburred the edges too.

 

[whiterhino]

Shovel or rake holder.

Good plan.

Looks good, the fork pockets are a great add-on too! Thank god you deburred the edges too.

 

[whiterhino]

Have been kicking around a compact tractor to use at my property. Ran across a John Deere 2025 with a mower deck and front bucket. Looks good but I don't know what to even look for besides visual things. What would I look for during a test drive?

 

[roll-bar Bob]

similar to any rig you are looking at check all the functions, look for wet spots, check/break clutch linkage to see if adjusted all the way out, How many hours are on it ??? does the loader bucket set flat or level to the ground, take a grease gun see if the pins take grease or if they are crusty, crusty can be a pain in the ass. Just a few thoughts off the top of my head.



RBB

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

Check pivot points for wear. Has it been maintained? Does everything work as it should etc....


Do some looking to make sure it will do everything you will want it to... That is about all I can think of.

 

[bbaXJ]

In addition to what others shared, pay close attention to the hydraulic system and especially hydrostatic drive. While generally very reliable, if someone abused it, ran it low, used the wrong fluid, etc it can lead to very expensive repairs. Make sure it operates smoothly and relatively quietly(some hydraulic whine is normal with any of them but the JDs tend to be fairly quiet).

FWIW the 2025 isn't an overly impressive machine for its size/cost. It's what I had my eyes on when I started shopping. I've always been a Deere guy, but after doing a ton of research before buying anything, I found that the 2025 is overpriced and underwhelming performance-wise compared to other name brand machines, at least when new. They're still great tractors, I didn't see any real common issues with them in my research, dealer network is great, and since you're looking used, the initial cost difference may be a non-issue. If it's a deal or a known source I can give you no reason not to go with that model. But if it's just a random tractor and you're looking for the best bang for the buck, I'd recommend keeping your eyes out for other options too. Kubota B2601 is its closest competitor size-wise, way cheaper new, and slightly more lifting power. B2650/LX2610 are another step up in size, still cheaper new, and significantly more capable.

 

[whiterhino]

Good suggestions from all you guys. I'm not rushing into anything and planned to look at most stuff mentioned. I like the suggestion of making sure the bucket sets flat, as that can be an indicator of the arms being bent.

Size wise, the 2025 is in general where I need to be and should fit my plans. I want to be able to mow my place up north, haul some wood, do some basic grading and dig a hole now and then. For the most part, I see it being an oversized mower and wood hauler. RE hauling wood, I had a Yamaha Rhino and one thing I found is that as I get older, I'm not into lifting a heavy log up into the bed of anything. Hence where the front bucket is very attractive.

 

[bbaXJ]

I fully agree with all of that, and any of the machines I mentioned including the 2025 can do those things exceedingly well. I wouldn't hesitate to get one if the price and condition are right. It's one of those tools I wonder how I ever did without. Unlikely to be found on a machine that size but I'd avoid ag tires if you plan on mowing or even just driving on lawns with it. Turfs or R4 industrial will be fine though which is what they typically come with. Turf is easier on the lawn but not as good for woods or dirt work.

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

One other thing with John Deere (correct me if I'm wrong)...they don't use the industry-standard skid steer quick-connect attachments, but rather a proprietary set-up. It could definitely impact things down the road if you're looking to add other loader attachments.

I picked up a used set of pallet forks after-the-fact, for example.

Craig

 

[roll-bar Bob]

Good point !!!

I share a couple of my attachments with close friends unfortunately one of my other friends does have a Deere and he can't swap with the rest of us.

When examining loader arms make sure all the tires have the proper air in them, it is easy to cheat the bucket test with a few PSI modification in the tires.


RBB

 

[whiterhino]

One other thing with John Deere (correct me if I'm wrong)...they don't use the industry-standard skid steer quick-connect attachments, but rather a proprietary set-up. It could definitely impact things down the road if you're looking to add other loader attachments.

I picked up a used set of pallet forks after-the-fact, for example.

Craig

That's kinda a big deal.

 

[JohnnyJ]

You're welcome to take a look at the quick attach on my tractor so you can see how it works to compare with the tractor you are looking at. It's no different than Bobcat skidders.

My neighbor's subcompact New Holland or LS sub-compact also has proprietary bucket connect. He can't swap between bucket and forks.

 

[bbaXJ]

Good point on the SSQA versus John Deere's proprietary. Or hell, my neighbor's JD 1025R has a pinned bucket so he can't swap at all. The SSQA is by far the most common, has the best aftermarket support, and is easiest to find loaner options or stuff on the used market. JD is probably the second most common but used FAR less than SSQA. You can find just about any new implement with an option for the JD quick attach, but options will be more limited and cost may be higher. In the used market you're pretty much screwed.

 

[whiterhino]

Important to know but I'm not sure how much it would affect me if I bought it with the loader and mower already attached. Not sure what other attachments I would need to use/borrow?

I'm hoping to go take a look at it Saturday but no intention of making an offer till I research pricing for new. This is a 2013 with 180 hours for $17K