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Covered in mud...
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the middle of swapping my rear drums for discs, and am looking at the lines....

I could just screw the stock hard lines into the caliper, but the placement of the calipers moves the fitting about 2 inches closer, so I'd end up with too much hard line, so I going to make shorter lines..

Geometry wise, its easier to run the hard lines over the top of the spring pack/plate, instead of under the spring, then back up to the caliper..

Other than the obvious thing about needing to remove the line when taking the axle out of the truck, is there any other reason not to do this.

Just checking if there's anything else Im forgetting, since you don't often see people do this setup.
 

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Buy a Fiat! Save the UAW!
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same thing here. wheres your jounce bumper hit? if its to close it will crush the line.
 

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AAA GOLD ROCKS!!!!!
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So long as you are bump stopped. So, the lines won't crsh on anything you should be fine. I would run a flex line from the hard line to the caliper. That way the caliper can float on it's pins without binding the lines. It'll be easier to do the rear brakes to.
 

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Axle Guru Extraordinaire
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I can't beleive Jebus is asking a tech question.

Agree with above post, seen it done a few times on the hardcore site.
 

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Covered in mud...
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Discussion Starter #6
Just bored, thought I'd ask. Hadn't thought about the bumpstop, I don't have one, the tires will bumpstop on the tube before it could crush.


Hehehe, I thought I'd catch someone with the hard lines into the calipers. They are solid mounted 4 piston calipers, so they don't slide, instead there are two pistons moving each shoe.
 

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"The Situation"
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Just bored, thought I'd ask. Hadn't thought about the bumpstop, I don't have one, the tires will bumpstop on the tube before it could crush.


Hehehe, I thought I'd catch someone with the hard lines into the calipers. They are solid mounted 4 piston calipers, so they don't slide, instead there are two pistons moving each shoe.
so everytime u need to pull the caliper you need to re bleed ? I'd pick up a short brake hose from the parts store
 

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Covered in mud...
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Discussion Starter #8
so everytime u need to pull the caliper you need to re bleed ?
So what? Thats what they run on toyotas stock. I don't exactly pull my calipers on a daily basis....
 

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Fucking Zen as Shit
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I did it with my YJ. No issues.
Keeps them out of the way of crap.

I do have rubber (well braided) lines going from the hard line to the caliper.
was pretty easy to find a stock app part to use
 

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Mall Rated
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So what? Thats what they run on toyotas stock. I don't exactly pull my calipers on a daily basis....

While you may not pull the calipers on a daily basis, any type of service to the axle you would have to crack the brake lines. We all know you will be taking that apart more in a year than the Joe Schmoe that would typically be buying the truck of the lot would in a lifetime. Alot of those people won't even see a dirt road in their lifetime let alone what you or I might put a vehicle through. Bleeding the brakes always never seems to go as easy or as fast as it should to not get a piece of hose to put in there. Well, at least for me anyway. :tonka:
 

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Covered in mud...
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Discussion Starter #12
Overall, the conversion wasn't bad, but if you don't have a big press, it'd be a nightmare. (pressing in and out all the wheel studs and removing and reinstalling the bearing + retainer). The thing I like about this setup, is that I already had the calipers and rotors, since I upgraded the fronts, and also they are smaller area then the calipers used in the sky kit, so the bias from front to back is improved.

If I have any spare soft lines around the garage, I'll use them but if not, I'll just run hard line. I know stock rear brake lines are a male flare one side and female flare on the other side, so they'd work.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
We all know you will be taking that apart more in a year than the Joe Schmoe that would typically be buying the truck of the lot would in a lifetime.

:confused:

This was the first time in 2 years that I did anything with the front or rear brakes, or anything with the rear axle.

The only reason to remove the rear shafts is to replace one, which In that case, I'm having to remove the hard line to plug it anyway...
 

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I'll Finsh One, One Day
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So did you basicly use your 85 toyota front rotors and calipers on the back and made brackets. Think i might have to do that cuz i have drilled and slotted rotors on the front and want to go to the fj rotor, ifs caliper set up and dont want my nice rotors to go to waste. Pictures please. Whole right up would be real nice if your willing to take the time to do it. Really want to go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'll snap some pics tonight, and post sometime this weekend. My picture server is down.

But yes, you take your old solid rotors, bore out the center hole a little bit, press in new studs, bolt up the brackets, etc..

You want to get the V6 front calipers, not just the IFS ones, the V6 ones have bigger pistons, about a 25% gain in piston area, and have cooling fins. If you have spacers, they should fit cleanly, otherwise, you have to grind the fins a little for most wheels...
 

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So long as you are bump stopped. So, the lines won't crsh on anything you should be fine. I would run a flex line from the hard line to the caliper. That way the caliper can float on it's pins without binding the lines. It'll be easier to do the rear brakes to.
x2. I have my calipers to rubber lines over the spring pack / axle then to a hard line along the axle tube. Bumpstops will help protect too.

 

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Covered in mud...
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Discussion Starter #18
x2. I have my calipers to rubber lines over the spring pack / axle then to a hard line along the axle tube. Bumpstops will help protect too.

But are you running floating calipers? My calipers are bolts firmly to the brackets and DO NOT move. The factory configuration for these calipers is to run hard line into them.

Hmm, I do think I have a spare pair of line on the parts truck....
 
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