[BigBlkYJ 355]

I'm thinking of building an addition to my current 1.5 car garage. I'm trying to figure out what its going to cost me in a ball park type figure. It would be in the 19X22 range and I would like 10' or 12' walls so that at some point I will be able to accommodate a lift.

A buddy of mine is a building inspector and said that I'm allowed to build to 14' on average of the roof line.

I would like to do most of the job myself to try and save some cash, but I know nothing of standard truss sizes, or anything to do with constructing the brackets for the trusses. I have built walls and crap before just never done a roof structure.

Keep in mind that I just want to know the cost of rough construction, roofing material etc, I don't need to figure electrical or anything extra in. The siding will probably just be painted T1-11.

Any input would be appreciated :thumb:

 

[mikef]

call overhead door and fire place for the door, tell em gary's son mike refered ya and they might help ya out there. or it might hurt ya haha. there out of waterford and do a great job.

 

[Silver Bullet]

If you did 10' walls the pitch of the roof would be ok but not great. 10' would not give you a ton of room for a tall garage door because of the header, unless you paid out the butt for a roof truss gable with the header built in (if possible with the small height of the truss). 12' would be out of the question unless you want problems down the road. If you want to go higher you can go in front of the board and get a variance but that is a huge pita. One other thing to consider is when you take a wall over a certain height you have to go to a 2x6 vs a 2x4 which is huge on the build cost. I am not positive on the height requirment in your area. To avoid this you do a row or two of block as the base of the wall, which is very inexpensive. A stanard garage that size would only be approx 5-7k in materials (not including concrete). This may go up a little with the cost of the roof truss.

 

[Bones]

If you did 10' walls the pitch of the roof would be ok but not great. 10' would not give you a ton of room for a tall garage door because of the header, unless you paid out the butt for a roof truss gable with the header built in (if possible with the small height of the truss). 12' would be out of the question unless you want problems down the road. If you want to go higher you can go in front of the board and get a variance but that is a huge pita. One other thing to consider is when you take a wall over a certain height you have to go to a 2x6 vs a 2x4 which is huge on the build cost. I am not positive on the height requirment in your area. To avoid this you do a row or two of block as the base of the wall, which is very inexpensive. A stanard garage that size would only be approx 5-7k in materials (not including concrete). This may go up a little with the cost of the roof truss.

I swear the grade and concrete work is the same price as the actual building itself.

 

[Silver Bullet]

That is actually a good rule of thumb. Concrete work is actually something if you shop you can get really cheap labor on right now. The down fall with cheap labor is you will have to 100% supervise to make sure corners are not skipped.

 

[BigBlkYJ 355]

Damn I would have never thought that the concrete would be 5 g's! Well my main thing is that some point down the road i want to put a lift in. I'm hoping that a 10' wall would be enough for that. I'm thinking 4/12 pitch would give me enough height. The actual door will be on the existing garage and is just a BS 7' door for now.

 

[RyeBread]

I'm thinking of building an addition to my current 1.5 car garage. I'm trying to figure out what its going to cost me in a ball park type figure. It would be in the 19X22 range and I would like 10' or 12' walls so that at some point I will be able to accommodate a lift.

A buddy of mine is a building inspector and said that I'm allowed to build to 14' on average of the roof line.

I would like to do most of the job myself to try and save some cash, but I know nothing of standard truss sizes, or anything to do with constructing the brackets for the trusses. I have built walls and crap before just never done a roof structure.

Keep in mind that I just want to know the cost of rough construction, roofing material etc, I don't need to figure electrical or anything extra in. The siding will probably just be painted T1-11.

Any input would be appreciated :thumb:

where is he a building inspector for? is the garage attached? are there sight line issues?

most zoning codes in SE Michigan will allow for a bonus room over the garage, or even a full sized story above. Therefore the correct total building height would/could/should be quite a bit over 14' above grade.

check with your local building department/zoning office - not over a beer with a buddy that is an inspector.

 

[osteologation]

Damn I would have never thought that the concrete would be 5 g's! Well my main thing is that some point down the road i want to put a lift in. I'm hoping that a 10' wall would be enough for that. I'm thinking 4/12 pitch would give me enough height. The actual door will be on the existing garage and is just a BS 7' door for now.

well a friend of mine jsut did a 20x24? i think garage floor. 18" rat wall and 4" thick. unattached. i believe he said it was 1100 for just the cement(with fiberglass added). we did all the work ourselves. had a couple guys who used to cement for a living show up and help. maybe not professional grade but i've seen worse that people paid to have done.

 

[Monkeyevil]

Mud is 80yd around here. And before you even get there you have to prep properly and that is neither cheap nor easy. Just like tile, actually being able to finish the product means much less that what is supporting it.

 

[BigBlkYJ 355]

Thanks for all the input guys. The inspector friend of mine works for the city that i'm building in. I used to work for the bldg. dept myself.

The garage is not attached to the home. He explained that the roof line may not be over 14' on average, however the peak could be higher than that. I'm not a construction guy, but I'd imagine that the less the pitch the higher I could go.

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

Damn I would have never thought that the concrete would be 5 g's! Well my main thing is that some point down the road i want to put a lift in. I'm hoping that a 10' wall would be enough for that. I'm thinking 4/12 pitch would give me enough height. The actual door will be on the existing garage and is just a BS 7' door for now.

10' wall is to short for trucks. My lift is 12' tall and I wish it were 13'-14' when working on trucks and vans.. You can do a 10' wall with cathedral ceilings to gain height. I built my first barn that way as the city would only allow 9.5' tall wall for that build.

 

[cjric]

I just built one for a customer. Post/beam, 24x32, 10' side walls, 4/12 trusses. It is too low for a lift that will raise a vehicle to a comfortable working height. But, it was the highest he could go. Concrete was around 1200. Labor to pour the floor was about the same. Dont forget fill. I spent 300 bringing in fill for the floor. Grade fell about 15" from one front corner to the opposite rear corner.

 

[BigBlkYJ 355]

I just built one for a customer. Post/beam, 24x32, 10' side walls, 4/12 trusses. It is too low for a lift that will raise a vehicle to a comfortable working height. But, it was the highest he could go. Concrete was around 1200. Labor to pour the floor was about the same. Dont forget fill. I spent 300 bringing in fill for the floor. Grade fell about 15" from one front corner to the opposite rear corner.

What does the post/beam setup mean? (you'll have to bear with me here) Are there still footings involved with that (i'm assuming no when i think posts). There will be lots of back fill since there is an 18" or so drop off where the garage will be built.

The prices you listed for concrete don't seem bad at all compared to what other people have said. What was the rest of the material cost if you don't mind me asking?

The short ceiling sorta sucks. I've looked at a couple other lift garage sites, and some of them show a 10' ceiling with the lift in the center with a clearance of 12' (not sure what sorts trussing is was using though).

http://www.behmdesign.net/336-l-14x24.aspx < There's a couple shots of the plans at that site.

Thanks again :thumb:

 

[cjric]

Post/beam = pole barn construction. 6x6s buried 48" in the ground, set on concrete cookies. 2x4 or 2x6 purlins horizontal on 24" center wrapping the posts. Grade board set at grade level, which also forms your floor edge. Headers on the sides, which support the roof load, so you can do whatever you want on the gable ends when it comes to an overhead door.
You can use a few cathedral trusses over where you want the lift, then use standard trusses for the rest to save money.
The one I built had 2 overheads, one service door, 6 windows, vinyl siding, arch. shingles, wrapped soffits, etc. Materials for the barn itself ran about 7500. Equipment rental, grading, fill, misc materials, etc ran about 2000. Labor ran about 9000. Concrete was around 2400.
If you get a plan, ,and figure materials from that, add 10% to everything. For instance, I had to run out and buy 250. worth of 16' 2x4s for temp bracing.

 

[hosejockey4506]

we have been getting 2.25-2.50 per square foot for concrete depending on how much prep.

i had to go 2x6 walls on my garage its 26x40 and has a 5.5 pitch which put me right at the 14 foot rule. there are ways to cheat that rule i will snap a pic of my neighbors garage he cheated it quite by putting a porch roof on the front and also slanting the ends of his gables.

 

[hosejockey4506]

we have been getting 2.25-2.50 per square foot for concrete depending on how much prep.

i had to go 2x6 walls on my garage its 26x40 and has a 5.5 pitch which put me right at the 14 foot rule. there are ways to cheat that rule i will snap a pic of my neighbors garage he cheated it quite by putting a porch roof on the front and also slanting the ends of his gables.

oh and they made me pour a 24 inch wide footing for the ten foot walls i had something like 16 yards of concrete in my footings

 

[BigBlkYJ 355]

oh and they made me pour a 24 inch wide footing for the ten foot walls i had something like 16 yards of concrete in my footings

Holy crap

 

[Silver Bullet]

The prices you listed for concrete don't seem bad at all compared to what other people have said. What was the rest of the material cost if you don't mind me asking?

2700 ish for concrete that size seems really cheap. Keep in mind that was post and beam so no footings. i am almost positive you will be 5k ish.


Are you talking about a lift for a vehicle or a lift to lift a vehicle for wrenching?

 

[BigBlkYJ 355]

No i'm talking about a lift to wrench on my crap :sonicjay: