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Discussion Starter #1,422 (Edited)
I wouldn't think the trans cooler was the cause of failure. I use to have a remote cooler on the back of my YJ above the rear seats mounted on the cage. Ran it like that for a few years and never had any issues. Probably just due to a worn trans with miles on it.

Did you mess with the transmission calibration at all?? Or is it not computer controlled?
All shift points were moved a touch higher, line pressure is bumped slightly higher than stock. I rebuilt this trans 3ish years ago. Went back to my instructions for the cooler and they clearly stated do not mount it like I did, although my fluid really wasnt burnt when i drained it. Was full throttle second gear when it let go so I'm thinking it was something mechanical like the sprag. Probably time for a 4l80e but with another freshly built 4l60e already in the barn and the limited amount of free time I have the 60 will do for now.

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All shift points were moved a touch higher, line pressure is bumped slightly higher than stock. I rebuilt this trans 3ish years ago. Went back to my instructions for the cooler and they clearly stated do not mount it like I did, although my fluid really wasnt burnt when i drained it. Was full throttle second gear when it let go so I'm thinking it was something mechanical like the sprag. Probably time for a 4l80e but with another freshly built 4l60e already in the barn and the limited amount of free time I have the 60 will do for now.

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That's what I tried to do with 4L60E's too... went through 6 of them. Will never touch another in my own vehicles! 80E all the way :rock:
 

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Discussion Starter #1,429 (Edited)
The Jeep has to take over DD duty soon while my truck is at the body shop, so I decided it was time to finally paint some of the bare steel.



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Discussion Starter #1,432 (Edited)
Been putting some street miles on it and getting used to the full hydro steering. After I got an air bubble worked out it has been tracking nice and straight, still takes a little getting used to though compared to the mechanical set up.

It takes corners extremely well with basically no body roll, and I haven't even installed my anti rock back on yet. Pretty excited about that.


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Discussion Starter #1,433
Logged about 150 miles over the course of 8 days while my truck was in the body shop with no issues. Felt good to be driving it a lot. Now time to fix the leaky rear axle and transfercase, and figure out why my driver side axle shaft didnt seal worth a crap on the front 9". My barn floor has been successfully oil stained all over the place

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Discussion Starter #1,437
Scored a set of 14" fox coilovers to replace my air shocks in the back. Now I need to decide if I back half the frame or just notch it to fit the coilovers.

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Discussion Starter #1,438
Stared at the jeep for a while last night and this morning trying to figure out what I want to do. Based on the dimensions off my front coilovers I should be able use the current shock hoop, laser cut 4 new tabs for each side, notch the frame and I can make the coilovers fit in place of the air shocks still with 6-7" of up travel. My worry is how much I need to notch the frame to keep the coilover away from the tire. I'm going to pursue this route first, but if something comes up that is going to make it too much work to fit I will back half the frame.

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Discussion Starter #1,440
Notch it or French in a new shock tower
My shock hoop is already tied nicely into the cage so ideally that stays put and I can notch the frame out to clear the coil. Worst case I could add some wheel spacers to keep the coil away from the tire but I would really like to avoid that.

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