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M

· American
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Discussion Starter · #721 ·
Currently getting prepped for a trip to the badlands April 29. Currently building an All new ram mount to replaced the destroyed one and fix my steering geometry. This new ram mount is 1.75x.25” DOM and 5/16” plate. The entire mount is above the centerline of my axle, which will be awesome for ground clearance.

I am also swapping to a PSC pump and reservoir. I have a psc resi and psc anti splash valve sitting on the shelf, and I picked up a used steering pump from Brian so I’m going to slap everything together. This pump lost a seal at AOP last year and took him out of the race, but I’m hoping a fresh rebuild kit and housing will fix it as well as bumping it up to a -12 feed and -8 pressurized system.


Update on my 6.0, I ordered a new melling oil pump off of summit, and it came to me half disassembled and missing parts.






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M

· American
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Discussion Starter · #723 ·
No my current goal is 4th of July, but might happen sooner now. My 5.3 has an over heating problem that I can’t locate. Almost seems to have blocked coolant passages. New water pump, t stat, t stat housing, and radiator. The water jackets in the heads gets hot and if I run it up to 200°F, the water pump is still cool to the touch. I’m going to pull the water pump off today and do my best to back flush the block with a hose and hopefully clear a blockage, otherwise I might be taking a loaner to the badlands this weekend.


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SHARPMACHINE

· F-U-CANCER!!!
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6,032 Posts
#724 ·
^^^^ Seems weird. Was this problem there before you started replacing all of these parts? Was it overheated badly? How do you fill it? Seems like I had to fill mine through the top radiator hose? Do you have the steam port hooked up?
 
M

· American
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1,731 Posts
Discussion Starter · #725 ·
The radiator was cracked, which was my only issue originally. To get me by last fall on a trail ride I cracked two eggs into the rad and it worked like a charm. This winter, the rad started leaking again. This spring, when I pulled it into the shop to start working on it, it would no longer stay cool but I just blamed that on the cracked rad. Sunday night I replaced the rad and t stat housing, then last night I did a water pump. Nothing is affecting the temp.

I just fill it through the rad cap. Steam port blocked off. I know that’s not ideal, but I’ve used this set up on two different LS’s in this buggy, and haven’t had issues until the last few times I’ve fired it up.


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Mihlfeldl2005

· Life=Short. Jeeps=Cool
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4,729 Posts
#726 ·
mtnbiker995 said:
The radiator was cracked, which was my only issue originally. To get me by last fall on a trail ride I cracked two eggs into the rad and it worked like a charm. This winter, the rad started leaking again. This spring, when I pulled it into the shop to start working on it, it would no longer stay cool but I just blamed that on the cracked rad. Sunday night I replaced the rad and t stat housing, then last night I did a water pump. Nothing is affecting the temp.

I just fill it through the rad cap. Steam port blocked off. I know that’s not ideal, but I’ve used this set up on two different LS’s in this buggy, and haven’t had issues until the last few times I’ve fired it up.


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Click to expand...
Got an omelet blocking a cooling port somewhere lol

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M

· American
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1,731 Posts
Discussion Starter · #730 ·
Plato2k5 said:
This would happen to you lol. Hopefully you can get the omelet out.

How's the new pump and bigger line size working out for the steering?
Click to expand...
Didn’t have enough time to feel comfortable swapping it all over since what I have currently works. The new steering geometry is nice though, I can steer both directions now. Lol


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COYOTE

· Cup holders & Rollbars
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635 Posts
#731 · (Edited)
This may sound crazy, but I had a similar problem with my LS. It would overheat occasionally. When it did overheat I noticed that the lower hose was still cold along with the radiator. My thought was that with the cold water on the radiator side of thermostat housing was enough to keep the thermostat closed. I first attempted to resolve by clipping off the very small check valve thingy from the thermostat leaving a small hole to create flow. That was too much flow so then the thermostat never got cold enough to close and engine never got up to temp. So the next time what I did was with a chisel I put a small dent in the seat of the check valve to allow a very small amount to flow. That worked and has been good ever since.
Yea crazy right.
 
M

· American
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Discussion Starter · #732 ·
I’m just surprised this is suddenly an issue out of no where. Also, the water pump was physically cool to the touch, almost room temp while the CTS read 200°F and climbing with a 165°F t stat.


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M

· American
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1,731 Posts
Discussion Starter · #733 ·
After warning the engine up to 200° and shutting it off a few times I was able to verify the t stat is opening. Radiator and upper hose got warm. However, still over heats. Swapped coolant temp sensors as well, no change. Going to pick up a coolant pressure tester from a buddy tonight to verify head gaskets are good


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Ryanw10

· Registered
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2,247 Posts
#737 ·
Did you test your coolant before letting it sit in the cold all winter? If not you may have a cracked head or block.

Otherwise open your steam port up when filling coolant. You probably have an air bubble that can't get worked out

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M

· American
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1,731 Posts
Discussion Starter · #738 ·
Ryanw10 said:
Did you test your coolant before letting it sit in the cold all winter? If not you may have a cracked head or block.

Otherwise open your steam port up when filling coolant. You probably have an air bubble that can't get worked out

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Click to expand...
No, but I’ve always ran 50/50. I guess that is possible though.

I’ve opened the steam port as well as as put a rubber hose over it and used a funnel to top off coolant through the steam port, no luck.


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C

· Hang all the thieves
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1,871 Posts
#740 ·
Fwiw, that last few times I've checked my freeze point with a coolant tester, it read the 50/50 mix was way closer to a zero degree freeze point than I was comfortable with. That applies to pre-mixed and if I mixed it myself. Now, I didn't use a refractometer to check, only the float style tester, but I never had reason to question it all the years I spent in a dealership. I don't use it frequently, so I'd be surprised if it's gone bad, but anything is possible. Long story short, I've been mixing at probably a 70/30 ratio to get back to a -32° test result. I don't know if the manufacturers have changed the coolants to be more environmentally friendly or something, but it wouldn't surprise me.
 
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