[bbaXJ]

I'm interested to see how your bumps turn out, I was thinking about doing throwing together some hydro bumps.. I suppose air would work too

Most people interchange the names "air" and "hydro" for the same thing. There's hydraulic oil and air(nitrogen) in there, so call em what you want. Straight up air bumps wouldn't work nearly as well since it wouldn't use the hydraulic oil and valving to dampen and control compression and rebound. You would just be using air like a spring, you wouldn't have any kind of controlled damping. Might as well just buy Timbrens at that point.

 

[Lousypirate]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/180427-home-made-nitrogen-bump-stops.html

Only read the first page, but I believe you would have more hurdles than you might think of at first.

 

[Ryanw10]

Most people interchange the names "air" and "hydro" for the same thing. There's hydraulic oil and air(nitrogen) in there, so call em what you want. Straight up air bumps wouldn't work nearly as well since it wouldn't use the hydraulic oil and valving to dampen and control compression and rebound. You would just be using air like a spring, you wouldn't have any kind of controlled damping. Might as well just buy Timbrens at that point.

This is why when I build mine I'm making them easy to disassemble so I can start with a .050" hole in the piston and drill more as needed

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[mtnbiker995]

How much pressure are you figuring you'll have to run, and how do you plan on assembling it?

i'm just curious.

I have a few ideas in mind...it definitely will take a lot of designing and testing.

Most people interchange the names "air" and "hydro" for the same thing. There's hydraulic oil and air(nitrogen) in there, so call em what you want. Straight up air bumps wouldn't work nearly as well since it wouldn't use the hydraulic oil and valving to dampen and control compression and rebound. You would just be using air like a spring, you wouldn't have any kind of controlled damping. Might as well just buy Timbrens at that point.

By drilling holes in the piston, you can make them more of a dampener. I will be using a HD spring to return the bump back down to it's resting position. These are only to help absorb major bumps, they won't be a constant duty bump.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/180427-home-made-nitrogen-bump-stops.html

Only read the first page, but I believe you would have more hurdles than you might think of at first.

Yea I've read that thread, that's where I got this idea.

 

[mtnbiker995]

This is why when I build mine I'm making them easy to disassemble so I can start with a .050" hole in the piston and drill more as needed

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I was actually thinking of doing a five 1/8" holes then I would be able to size them up as I needed for more air flow.

 

[mtnbiker995]

What kind of price are you looking for on axles? 4.10s?

Yes 4.10's. The front is locked and has 3 of the 4 shafts chromolly, passenger inner is still factory. Also has synergy ball joints and C gussets. Rear is open and stock other than 4.10s. I'm thinking $1,000obo for the axles but I'd really like them gone.

 

[REEDracing94]

Most people interchange the names "air" and "hydro" for the same thing. There's hydraulic oil and air(nitrogen) in there, so call em what you want. Straight up air bumps wouldn't work nearly as well since it wouldn't use the hydraulic oil and valving to dampen and control compression and rebound. You would just be using air like a spring, you wouldn't have any kind of controlled damping. Might as well just buy Timbrens at that point.

Hmm interesting.. I always though of air as pure air with a return spring and swapable valve stacks for tunability, and it seems that is what the op is referring to also. I may give it a try anyways, what's the worst that could happen

 

[mtnbiker995]

Hmm interesting.. I always though of air as pure air with a return spring and swapable valve stacks for tunability, and it seems that is what the op is referring to also. I may give it a try anyways, what's the worst that could happen

That's exactly what I was referring to. The only oil will be a light coating over the seals on assembly, possibly a Teflon lubricant. Not sure yet.

And I like your mentality, that's the same thing Ryan and I were thinking.

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[REEDracing94]

Well you got me thinking, I drew up some half ass prints and ordered some parts. Not sure when I will have a machine open to work on them but I will let you know how they work. One of my only concerns is the spring wearing on the id of the chamber eventually causeing wear and poor sealing of the piston/valve. Are you planning on aluminum or Dom?

 

[mtnbiker995]

I'd machine a groove in the piston top and top of the chamber for the spring to rest in, it wouldn't be the full width of the chamber. If that makes sense. I'm planning DOM chamber so I can weld but aluminum rod for the main shaft of the bump.

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[mtnbiker995]

Or even just something similar to how a coil bucket works would be even easier... So that's prolly what I'll do lol

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[REEDracing94]

That was my thought too, except on the top I am going to use a rubber issolater that will double as a hard stop if I bottom them out. I like the idea on the piston top but I am planning on a 3 groove and might not have room to take it down any farther. Maybe I will go down to 2 seals.

 

[mtnbiker995]

I'm going to mount mine so that they can't bottom out, they're only going to be probably about 3 inches of travel max

 

[RDK_YJ88]

I don't understand how the bump stop will do anything with just air/nitrogen? What does the dampening? The only resistance in the whole setup is the spring you're using to push the piston back down. That spring rate is the only thing dictating the stiffness on the bump stop. Air won't dampen like hydraulic oil.

 

[Lousypirate]

I'm going to mount mine so that they can't bottom out, they're only going to be probably about 3 inches of travel max

your your bump stop will never reach full bump?

What will it bottom out on then? Kind of defeats the purpose of a bump?

 

[Toyfish]

your your bump stop will never reach full bump?

What will it bottom out on then? Kind of defeats the purpose of a bump?

I was thinking the same thing?

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[mtnbiker995]

I was going to leave my current bump stops in place for travel limit... Everything is just in planning right now though. I'll probably end up changing it up by the time I'm done

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[REEDracing94]

I'm going to mount mine so that they can't bottom out, they're only going to be probably about 3 inches of travel max

Why not make them bottom to replace your current bumps? I got a little carried away when I drew them up and have around 6in of travel... I think I going to scale down to about 4.

As for dampening I'm hoping forcing the air through the holes in the piston will provide dampening. I think me and the op are on the same page with thag.

I'm going to experiment with different piston set ups and using air, air/light oil, and pure oil.

 

[RDK_YJ88]

Why not make them bottom to replace your current bumps? I got a little carried away when I drew them up and have around 6in of travel... I think I going to scale down to about 4.

As for dampening I'm hoping forcing the air through the holes in the piston will provide dampening. I think me and the op are on the same page with thag.

I'm going to experiment with different piston set ups and using air, air/light oil, and pure oil.

That won't work. You won't have enough volume of air to dampen anything. If you want to use just air, don't put any holes in the piston. This will compress the air and become more stiff the further it travels. Think of it as an air cushion. You can tune the compression with air pressure, but you cant tune your rebound. You also won't need a coil spring in there. This is what they are building in that pirate thread.

If you want tune-ability, with holes in the piston and a shim stack, you need an oil. This is what Fox, King, Bilstein, Profender, FOA, etc use.

 

[mtnbiker995]

I disagree. How will the holes not act as a dampener? No holes will make it like a spring

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