I disagree. How will the holes not act as a dampener? No holes will make it like a spring

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And holes will make it act like a reservoir on both sides. I get the whole "breathing through a straw" train of thought, but as Thomas said, there won't be enough volume to help. Why are you so resistant to using oil? Air compresses easily, oil does not. There's a reason every shock and bump on the market uses oil for damping. Hell, even air bag suspensions still use oil shock absorbers.

 

I think I might keep my new gf around for a while. Not only is the sex great but she buys me Jeep parts! I took her to Drummond Island a couple weeks ago and blew a lockout while I was there and she said she felt bad because I had just finished the axles... So she decided to buy me Warn premium lockouts. Win.



Also side track from my build, this is the new turbo set up my cousin Zak is working on for his 24v.



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I think I might keep my new gf around for a while. Not only is the sex great ....

That's not what she told me......oke: lol

For bump stops Collin, there is a write up on pirate. You can buy the piston and shaft assembly fom McMaster. I could probably get them from work at Fastenal cheaper then you could make them.

 

If you're putting a return spring in it, why don't you just put one on either end and have a progressive rate all mechanical bump?

 

Because the spring is just to return the bump, not to absorb impact

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It's all a learning curve. Were both engineers so anything we learn here helps us in the real world

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I'm an engineer too. Maybe you need to do some more capital justification projects :d:

 

Well I ordered a chromo shaft for the rear a week ago and it still hasn't showed up...and in the mean time I snapped the head off of the pinion on the rear axle of my truck while cruising down the highway so I'm currently without a vehicle. But on the plus side I did sell a fair amount of JK parts in the last couple days to cover some of the expenses on my axles so that's a plus.

 

Kyle didn't get the tires loaded up so I couldn't grab them when I was in GR today. I've got some Yukon shafts for my 60 too, I'm hoping that keeps the breakage down

 

Chromo shaft came yesterday, I've gotta cut about 2" off the splined end. Anybody have suggestions how to keep the shaft cool while cutting so I don't ruin the heat treat? I don't have immediate access to a wet saw.

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Wet rag?
Go slow and keep it wet
I would think it's too hard to cut in the lathe plus the splines make it harder

 

Well got my Yukon shaft cut down and installed this week. Also wrapped up my cage install very impressed with it. I've just gotta make a harness bar and I'll be good, possibly add a few cross bars up my rear factory cage.




Also yesterday, I got a free matching H2 wheel as a spare so now I'll have a 5 set.



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Hey any of you guys with warn premium lockouts ever had this happen? My lockout came a lot farther apart than its supposed to when I removed it last week....



Do I just call warn? I've tried and tried but even I pop the pieces back together it keeps coming all the way back apart

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There is a little retainer ring that goes on the very inside of the lockout that holds the center splined piece in place

 

Really? I tried comparing it to the other side they looked the same

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There should be a very small groove that a small ring works into

That's what looks like is wrong to me

 

I'll bring it to the shop today if you go and show you

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Got a little work done today relocating the front tracbar and did some travel checks with the new set up. Still have to box the new mount in but at least now I have more than 3" of up travel on the driver side. Did some travel checks and measurements so I can order my new front shocks so I'm not running around basically shockless because of how blown my current ones are.

Thanks to @Wramblerguy for providing a warm place to work and lending a hand.

First we cut the back side of the factory mount off, then just moved the tracbar to the front of the factory mount, and welded up a new front half to the bracket. Not the prettiest, but it should work for now.











Anyone wanna buy a set of KC long range slim lights?

 

I noticed I have a sweet twist in my rear driveshaft... The ears are opened up enough that the u joint caps can move freely in the ears.











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Picked up 4 12" travel nitrogen shocks for $75 a week ago, then today I got two 1350 CV shafts for $40 then also got a new seat for my truck for $30 with good padding and no tears. On a pretty good roll buying stuff

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Let me know if you need help getting any of those fancy new parts installed. You gonna fab up some hoops for those shocks or will they fit in your current setup? My 14" rears are huge so I can imagine you'll need something a bit different?

 

Will do. No I'll be able to run them in the front the way it's set up. The rears I'll need to make some sort of coil retainer because my coils won't stay in place with 3 more inches of travel

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Your not going to want to un seat your coil or stretch it out, your better off limiting the travel of your shock

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I'm gonna relocate my shock mounts down about 2.5 inches... I should only need a coil retainer for full droop. Just by flexing, my bump stops on the opposite side won't allow enough flex to lose a coil

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When your coil is loose there is nothing pushing your tire to the ground giving you no traction and making that extra travel worthless

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I know. I'd have to belly out hard for my coils to be loose so I'm pretty sure I'll be fine.

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Upgrades for days not just vehicles related! New toolbox!

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Small update. I guess the company won't warranty my twisted rear shaft so I'm just going to build another one this afternoon and carry my messed up one as a spare

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That's a bummer

 

Random updates. Went on Reject Run and got one of the cones by out-wheeling @daxl350 on the rocks...kinda. Also picked up some airshocks for when I do my rear stretch so I don't have to move so many mounts around. Down the road I'd like coilovers but I couldn't pass up the deal I got on these. Also I toasted my front locker at Reject Run so I'm probably going to just put the spiders back in and weld them. Right before Reject Run I welded the limited slip in my rear axle and really liked it up north and will probably leave it in until I regear, then at that point I'll install the Detroit I have for the 60. I also installed a new top after shredding my old one. Sorry that post was kind of all over the map haha

Random pics:

 

Your welcome for pulling your broken ass off the rock's :sonicjay:

 

Not Jeep related but last night I put all new steering on my truck, idler, pitman, and all TRE's. I had no idea a 16 year old IFS truck could handle this well. I would have done this the day I bought it if I knew how nice it would be haha tempted to do all the ball joints now too just for kicks.

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:sonicjay::sonicjay::sonicjay:

 

I offered to pull him off, he was whining about a winch or something, so I went back off into the woods wheeling