Hell yea I'll be around. Working on my truck today then Jeep the rest of the weekend. Like last time, if you see my black Chevy in the driveway, I'm most likely home lol I'll prolly have the garage door open too

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Well my truck is back on the road... Had to replace a unit bearing and CV shaft. Hopefully my heims will be in tomorrow and I can get the progress rolling on my Jeep... I THINK the only other thing I need is a passenger side brake caliper and a set of brake pads then I'll be good other than welding on brackets. With my luck who knows what else I'll run into though

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Front axle most of the way in. Still need to weld on my tracbar bracket and shock mounts. Then I need to finish up the brakes, build my front driveshaft, throw new u joints in my axle shafts and pop them in the front, replace a leaking hub seal on my rear axle, install my Detroit in the rear, and box in my rear tracbar bracket all before Thursday...we'll see what happens









Had to use a ratchet strap to pull my factory front drive shaft off of the t-case.



Anybody wanna buy a set of KC 130 Watt SlimLites?

 

Check that hub out. That's a nice hub.



Steering. Stacked heims putting the knuckle in double shear



Had to add 3.5" to an XJ front driveshaft.



Drove it out of the garage under it's own power. Just have to box in some brackets and make front shock mounts before I roll north. Also have to give my rear axle some attention too because of the leaky hub...Also want to install my locker if I have time.

 

Nice!
Do you get enough mis alignment out of those heims for your steering?

 

Yea barely... Luckily if I hit a rock and bend the tie rod up, it'll help the cause.

what brackets are those that let u run the chevy calipers? and what rotor does it use?

Google lugnut4x4. Buy the "brackets only" kit. They're advertised to only work with JB6 but I'm running JB7 because they mounted just fine. I'm running the exact same set up on the front that I am on the rear, mid 80's Chevy JB7 front calipers and rotors.

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what brackets are those that let u run the chevy calipers? and what rotor does it use?

 

I bought the full kit from GreatLakeOffroad and am very happy with it. It was 100% complete and works great.

 

it will still bend the same lol! my control arms are 1.75x .250 in front and 2x.250 wall rear and they are also all bent.

 

Collin doesn't wheel like you

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Are those jk axles for sale?

 

Great time on Drummond Island...New axles worked great, first wheeling trip this year that my Jeep was still fully drive able after a weekend of wheeling! Only casualty was the turn knob on my passenger side lockout. My buddy got a few pics of me that I'll upload once I get the chance to go through them.

 

Got my 4pt harnesses installed...Takes a little getting used to because of how well they hold you down vs a standard belt. Also started tearing the front half apart so I can install an OR Fab cage that I picked up from my buddy for $100.





Finally got my oil pressure gage backlight wired up so I can see it at night. Also, after talking with my roommate, we're both going to give a shot at building our own air bumps. We'll see how it turns out.





Snapped a shaft on my 60 already while "pulling out of the garage"



Pic from up at Drummond Island of only my LED cubes in my rear bumper turned on.



Random garage pic.



You can even see where I was pulling out of the garage when I snapped a shaft... :rock:

 

ive been beating the shit outta my jeep all summer and still havent broke a rear shaft!

 

The splines were already twisted so I switched sides with the shafts to "straighten" the splines... Guess it was weaker than I thought

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yes they are very weak

 

Are you designing your own bump stops?

 

Yes. We both have access to a nice machine shop and wide selection of materials so we're going to give it a shot

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How much pressure are you figuring you'll have to run, and how do you plan on assembling it?

i'm just curious.

 

I have a few ideas in mind...it definitely will take a lot of designing and testing.

Most people interchange the names "air" and "hydro" for the same thing. There's hydraulic oil and air(nitrogen) in there, so call em what you want. Straight up air bumps wouldn't work nearly as well since it wouldn't use the hydraulic oil and valving to dampen and control compression and rebound. You would just be using air like a spring, you wouldn't have any kind of controlled damping. Might as well just buy Timbrens at that point.

By drilling holes in the piston, you can make them more of a dampener. I will be using a HD spring to return the bump back down to it's resting position. These are only to help absorb major bumps, they won't be a constant duty bump.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/180427-home-made-nitrogen-bump-stops.html

Only read the first page, but I believe you would have more hurdles than you might think of at first.

Yea I've read that thread, that's where I got this idea.

 

I'm interested to see how your bumps turn out, I was thinking about doing throwing together some hydro bumps.. I suppose air would work too

 

Most people interchange the names "air" and "hydro" for the same thing. There's hydraulic oil and air(nitrogen) in there, so call em what you want. Straight up air bumps wouldn't work nearly as well since it wouldn't use the hydraulic oil and valving to dampen and control compression and rebound. You would just be using air like a spring, you wouldn't have any kind of controlled damping. Might as well just buy Timbrens at that point.

 

What kind of price are you looking for on axles? 4.10s?

 

Yes 4.10's. The front is locked and has 3 of the 4 shafts chromolly, passenger inner is still factory. Also has synergy ball joints and C gussets. Rear is open and stock other than 4.10s. I'm thinking $1,000obo for the axles but I'd really like them gone.

 

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/180427-home-made-nitrogen-bump-stops.html

Only read the first page, but I believe you would have more hurdles than you might think of at first.

 

Well you got me thinking, I drew up some half ass prints and ordered some parts. Not sure when I will have a machine open to work on them but I will let you know how they work. One of my only concerns is the spring wearing on the id of the chamber eventually causeing wear and poor sealing of the piston/valve. Are you planning on aluminum or Dom?

 

I'd machine a groove in the piston top and top of the chamber for the spring to rest in, it wouldn't be the full width of the chamber. If that makes sense. I'm planning DOM chamber so I can weld but aluminum rod for the main shaft of the bump.

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Or even just something similar to how a coil bucket works would be even easier... So that's prolly what I'll do lol

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That was my thought too, except on the top I am going to use a rubber issolater that will double as a hard stop if I bottom them out. I like the idea on the piston top but I am planning on a 3 groove and might not have room to take it down any farther. Maybe I will go down to 2 seals.

 

I'm going to mount mine so that they can't bottom out, they're only going to be probably about 3 inches of travel max

 

your your bump stop will never reach full bump?

What will it bottom out on then? Kind of defeats the purpose of a bump?

 

I don't understand how the bump stop will do anything with just air/nitrogen? What does the dampening? The only resistance in the whole setup is the spring you're using to push the piston back down. That spring rate is the only thing dictating the stiffness on the bump stop. Air won't dampen like hydraulic oil.

 

I was going to leave my current bump stops in place for travel limit... Everything is just in planning right now though. I'll probably end up changing it up by the time I'm done

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