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8 lug JK --> RZR time

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164K views 888 replies 44 participants last post by  mtnbiker995  
M
#1 · (Edited)
Some of you might know me, Collin, I've been to a handful of events in the last year or so riding along with @Ryanw10 or @BLZR. Well I decided to finally bring a build thread over here...I don't feel like posting all of my rebuild progress from when I totaled it until now but if you have any questions just ask...

It was stock when I totaled it and this is what it looks like now





I'm currently 8 lug rear 5 lug front. I should be 8 lug front and rear by the time I head up to Drummond on Oct 22nd. Last night I just picked up some Corbeau Baja JP Wide seats and threw them in, just gotta make a harness bar and get the 4pt's installed.





I've done all the work myself or with the help of friends so I can answer any questions you might have...for some reason there aren't a lot of JK build threads on GL4x4 :sonicjay:
 
M
#721 ·
Currently getting prepped for a trip to the badlands April 29. Currently building an All new ram mount to replaced the destroyed one and fix my steering geometry. This new ram mount is 1.75x.25” DOM and 5/16” plate. The entire mount is above the centerline of my axle, which will be awesome for ground clearance.

I am also swapping to a PSC pump and reservoir. I have a psc resi and psc anti splash valve sitting on the shelf, and I picked up a used steering pump from Brian so I’m going to slap everything together. This pump lost a seal at AOP last year and took him out of the race, but I’m hoping a fresh rebuild kit and housing will fix it as well as bumping it up to a -12 feed and -8 pressurized system.
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Update on my 6.0, I ordered a new melling oil pump off of summit, and it came to me half disassembled and missing parts.

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M
#723 ·
No my current goal is 4th of July, but might happen sooner now. My 5.3 has an over heating problem that I can’t locate. Almost seems to have blocked coolant passages. New water pump, t stat, t stat housing, and radiator. The water jackets in the heads gets hot and if I run it up to 200°F, the water pump is still cool to the touch. I’m going to pull the water pump off today and do my best to back flush the block with a hose and hopefully clear a blockage, otherwise I might be taking a loaner to the badlands this weekend.


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M
#725 ·
The radiator was cracked, which was my only issue originally. To get me by last fall on a trail ride I cracked two eggs into the rad and it worked like a charm. This winter, the rad started leaking again. This spring, when I pulled it into the shop to start working on it, it would no longer stay cool but I just blamed that on the cracked rad. Sunday night I replaced the rad and t stat housing, then last night I did a water pump. Nothing is affecting the temp.

I just fill it through the rad cap. Steam port blocked off. I know that’s not ideal, but I’ve used this set up on two different LS’s in this buggy, and haven’t had issues until the last few times I’ve fired it up.


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M
#730 ·
Plato2k5 said:
This would happen to you lol. Hopefully you can get the omelet out.

How's the new pump and bigger line size working out for the steering?
Click to expand...
Didn’t have enough time to feel comfortable swapping it all over since what I have currently works. The new steering geometry is nice though, I can steer both directions now. Lol


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#731 · (Edited)
This may sound crazy, but I had a similar problem with my LS. It would overheat occasionally. When it did overheat I noticed that the lower hose was still cold along with the radiator. My thought was that with the cold water on the radiator side of thermostat housing was enough to keep the thermostat closed. I first attempted to resolve by clipping off the very small check valve thingy from the thermostat leaving a small hole to create flow. That was too much flow so then the thermostat never got cold enough to close and engine never got up to temp. So the next time what I did was with a chisel I put a small dent in the seat of the check valve to allow a very small amount to flow. That worked and has been good ever since.
Yea crazy right.
 
M
#733 ·
After warning the engine up to 200° and shutting it off a few times I was able to verify the t stat is opening. Radiator and upper hose got warm. However, still over heats. Swapped coolant temp sensors as well, no change. Going to pick up a coolant pressure tester from a buddy tonight to verify head gaskets are good


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C
#740 ·
Fwiw, that last few times I've checked my freeze point with a coolant tester, it read the 50/50 mix was way closer to a zero degree freeze point than I was comfortable with. That applies to pre-mixed and if I mixed it myself. Now, I didn't use a refractometer to check, only the float style tester, but I never had reason to question it all the years I spent in a dealership. I don't use it frequently, so I'd be surprised if it's gone bad, but anything is possible. Long story short, I've been mixing at probably a 70/30 ratio to get back to a -32° test result. I don't know if the manufacturers have changed the coolants to be more environmentally friendly or something, but it wouldn't surprise me.
 
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#750 · (Edited)
The time has come to start thinking about parting ways with this rig. For sale or trade for dirt bikes / sxs / cash in varying combinations.

Also willing to potentially part out, I might keep a pile of parts off of it for stephs bronco such as the Atlas and coilovers, we’ll see.

No idea what it’s worth. Suggestions?

-‘09 JK with clean title
-LS/TH400/Atlas 3.0
-Holley Terminator X engine management and harness
-TH400 has full billet FTI reverse manual valve body with engine braking and trans brake, -Coan engineering torque converter 3,000 RPM stall
-05+ D60 front RCV’s, 5.13s, spool, 2.5x8” DE PSC ram, spare set of shafts to go with
-04 14b rear, 5.13s, grizzly, spare shafts to go with
-ATX Slabs, 37” bias treps, spare raceline and bias trep, plus 5 spare 37” treps without wheels
-14x2.5 Radflo resi front, 16x2.0 Radflo resi rear all are custom valved by Phil Licciardi
-Brakes work but pedal is soft, still OEM jk master. Plan is to order dual wildwood masters
-All links are 2”x.25” DOM and 1.25” heims, 3/4” bolts front 5/8” rear

No beating around the bush here: the interior needs fixed. It was hacked and cut to mount the driveline where I wanted it, needs center console, dash, etc made.

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M
#754 ·
whiterhino said:
You have nice parts on it but the way you have cut up the body will reduce it's value a lot unless your buyer only wants an open hard core trail rig. My guess would be $12-15k
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Yea, I get that. It’s a dedicated trail rig with a hand me down Ultra4 drivetrain in it. And that’s basically what I was thinking for a price, so that’s good. I also have a slew of spare parts that can go / stay to swing the price a couple thousand too. Wheels, tires, spare 6.0, multiple sets of axle shafts, etc.


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