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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought this a couple of months ago.
1955 willys pickup, basicly untouched.( except for the interior, seats are from a 9*'s chevy?) Still has the original 6 volt system with a flat head 6 cly 3 speed/d18 case. And it has 5:38 r&p which isnt to bad on gas seeing i only have to drive 1 1/2 miles to work. I was going to leave the drive train alone for a while. Eventually i was going to drop a diesel into it, but with the lack of cash decided to drop my 401 into it instead along with a 727 tranny and a np208 case. For the time being im looking to find a ford 9" rear from a full size ford to shove underneath so i can drive 45mph in a 45 instead of 35.
I have to tear down the 401 and replace the crank due to some sand granules from "Gladwin"(thats a story in itself) I didnt know the motor swallowed anything till spring when i was on my way to Tellico and only made it as far as "Toledo", when i let off the gas pedal i lost all my oil pressure(piston that regulates oil pressure stuck open due to a couple of sand granuales) and popped and bent pushrods and lifters(besides tearing up the crank.) :blah::blah:
These pics were taken in Nebraska/South west of Omaha, where i picked the willys up.
Ive never done a build thread before so we'll see how it goes.:popcorn:
 

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I'm one to appreciate a build and appreciate and original. I'd almost hate to see that old willy's change. That appears to be in beautiful condition. I would personally restore it but hey I don't own it. Very nice jeep!! If you ever want to sell it as original let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I dont know if you would buy it for what i got it for. I got it off of E-bay. It wont be forsale any time soon, the last willys i had was a 48 willys 2A/bought in 1991 and sold in 2005. Considering theres onlly a few places with surf rust due to poor prep work before being repainted back in 1986 by PO. The under side still has the factory paint in some places where the undercoating has flaked off. Its a Nebraska jeep. On the body, the only followup im going to take care of is stress cracks on the sheet metal/weld them up.
this was my 48 willys 2A just before i sold it, i had the 401 in it with a T176 and 300 case, locked front& rear.
 

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HURL SCOUTS
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you are swapping axles? the rear in that would be the timken 51540 axle. if you want to get away from the gearing I have a set of 4.88's for that front end. should be a cool project
 

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Discussion Starter #6
im hoping to find a 9" rear with a 4:10 r&p(if possible) The axle has to be from a full size pickup tho. I think the width would be about 65" or 68" Something like that. The front has to be a drivers drop but im not bothered with the front for now.(squeaky tight budget!)
 

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A firend of mine had one of those. We used a 9" out of a full size truck and a Dana 44 out of a scout for the front. It worked quite well. He used a 350/465/205 combo in his. With the 3.50 gears and 35" tires it was a good combo.
 

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Hey I talked to you in front of Ace hardware a couple weeks ago! Cool project. Maybe next spring you will see me cruising around Auburn Hills in my 53 (if I finish the wiring ;)

Good luck with your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Sweet jeep, saddens me to see another in good shape getting cut up though.
ummm.......I'm not cutting anything up. The cracks on the fenders are going to get welded( i might add some gussets to strengthen those areas. I'm going to leave the dash alone and use the factory gages.) I might pull the bed this winter and box the frame from the cab on back. The engine isnt getting pulled any time soon. At this point im trying to make it roll down the road a bit faster. (looking for a ford 9"/complete) The stock tail lights are long gone so i decided to make a bomb-proof set. I used 5 1/2" tubing 3" wide. And a 3" dia tube for the extension/mount. Used the hole-saw & sawzal to cut slots on the sides so the lights can be seen from the passing lanes. here's some pics.

Thx for the compliments guys.
Hey BJ....i remember bumping into ya.:thumb:
The license plate is my brothers nick name, he passed away about 5 years ago.
 

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81 inches of fun
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ummm.......Im not cutting anything up. The cracks on the fenders are going to get welded( i might add some gussets to strengthen those areas. Im going to leave the dash alone and use the factory gages.) I might pull the bed this winter and box the frame from the cab on back. The engine isnt getting pulled any time soon. At this point im trying to make it roll down the road a bit faster. (looking for a ford 9"/complete) The stock tail lights are long gone so i decided to make a bomb-proof set. I used 5 1/2" tubing 3" wide. And a 3" dia tube for the extention/mount. Used the holesaw & sawzal to cut slots on the sides so the lights can be seen from the passing lanes. heres some pics.

Thx for the compliments guys.
Hey BJ....i remember bumping into ya.:thumb:

I was referring to the yanking of the motor for the ford stuff on such a clean rig. But glad to see that will be a long way off. If you plan to drive it every day the axles (gearing at least) really does need to be changed. I have been happy with the 3.73's in my flatty for driving it all the time. The ford 9 out back will be a good choice - are you narrowing it so you can keep the tires under the fenders?

I wish my flatty would have been better off, I really do want a stock one.

There is a guy that did a turbo F-head on early 5, I always thought it would be cool to try to turbo a L head or hurricane 6 :naughty: Wouldn't make a ton of power but be a really cool novelty :sonicjay:

Love the taillight guard!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I dont think the 9" well have to be narrowed. Im hoping to take care of that with wheel backspacing. One of the guys at work is running his cougar with the hydrogen mix. A cool and simple setup with 3 mason jars. Added(he says) about 10 more mpg on his v8. I wouldnt mind trying it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well i finally got my axles, A HP D44 front and a D60 rear from a 78 F250. So far the rear is now bolted in as of yesterday. I welded the spring pads top and bottom, for now SOA because it will be a while before the front axle is set up and i'd like to drive it in the mean time.

Im also working under the hood moving the battery from the driver side to the passenger side so i can upgrade my brake system.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
looks like a sweet project, please dont put flames on it
Your right, "no flames" i kind of like it just the way it is, faded paint minamal rust etc. I drove out to Daveys Jeeps in Salem Ohio yesterday to look at the 2001 grand he had forsale, so while i was there i was looking at his willys pickup project and other willys stock/forsales and other projects too. "I should have a back yard like his"......one day?
 

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Nice looking truck. I just brought a 1959 Willys home from Colorado. Don't know anything about it except it belonged to the forrestry service. Pretty much all original. Will get pics up later when wife comes home.
 

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Good to finally find some experience or maybe upcoming experience. I am in the process of putting Dana 44's from a Scout II into a 53 Willys pickup chassis. The rear is done and came out well. I bought a new axle 4" longer, split the housing and extended with a 3 1/2 x 3/8 wall DOM round tube, the drivers axle the 4 inches, to accomodate the new longer axle. This gave me a 62 inch WMS which is narrower than the original 65 inch as I have a jeepster body mounted on this chassis. New brakes, ubolts & plates and limited slip and feel great about the results which has been mounted and road tested for now.

Now I am looking at the front end Dana 44. I have bought GM knuckles with steering arm on top to replace the Scouts. I will be drilling the 6 bolt knuckles for the 8 bolt scout pattern which has been documented to my liking. I'll set the caster by rewelding the C's to 3-4 deg for the Spring under setup which seems straightforward. I haven't seen any issues with driveline angles. But I am looking at the spring width of 30-30 1/8 center to center of the Willys to fit to the 31 spring width of the Scout. The drivers side is no issue but the forged casing of the pumpkin will need to be modified (probably by grinding) to accomodate the bolt movement of 1/2 inch towards the pumkin. I am working on ideas on this and trying to avoid moving the spring mounts to widen the center width the 7/8 to 1 inch. This is about the only issue I can see right now and looking for a "clean" solution for this ubolt placement. Any Ideas??

Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ill post pics in the next week or two. I'm currently working on my front temp axle/D30hp, out of an XJ. I moved my front leafs(YJ springs) out to 32" on center, reason being, later on ill be bolting up a Ford HD D44/drvr drp. I was only going to cut the passenger tube only and now want to cut down both tubes/sides. Yesterday and today i was fabing up a fresh steering box mount set-up. Ill click some pics of that too. With all this cutting and welding on the front frame, im trying to plan ahead on a engine swap some time in the future too. So if its a V8 I'd hate to have to move the steering shaft due to engine mounts or exhaust manifold issues.
 
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