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Life=Short. Jeeps=Cool
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Also, are you switching valve bodies with the new trans? Noticed the standard gate shifter and didn't know if you were keeping it or going to a reverse valve body

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 

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I'm not old, honest...
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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Also, are you switching valve bodies with the new trans? Noticed the standard gate shifter and didn't know if you were keeping it or going to a reverse valve body

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
That is a RMVB shifter
 

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I'm not old, honest...
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30,409 Posts
Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Trans and transfer case are in. No attachments hooked up yet due to a snafoo that caught me off guard. I didn't realize that the original builder had a special weird torque converter that I couldn't identify and I bought a new Hughes converter. I never thought to compare the mounting. Duh!!!!! Turns out once we fit it up - and of course had the transfer case installed too, Johnny went to install the flywheel bolts. (thanks to John for coming over) It was only then that we realized we needed to slot the holes more and that I needed a crank pilot adaptor bushing. So out it came and I had to run to Casey's to pick up a bushing. After 2 rounds of putting the transfer case in, I know that when it ever comes out again that I am redoing the rear cross member mounts. It's a tight fit and there is just enough misalignment that it's a chore that kills an hour of fiddling around.

The good news is that the fixture I built worked really well. The guys had left when I left for Casey's and I ended up installing both the trans and transfer case by myself.
 

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I'm not old, honest...
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30,409 Posts
Discussion Starter · #66 ·
It seems like my only job was to find the issues. Not sure I was much help.

When do you start marketing your fixture? It's a beauty. (but it definitely works)
It needs a little refinement before marketing.
 

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I'm not old, honest...
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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
Buggy is fully back together. I took it for a test spin Sunday afternoon and had an ominous clunk in the front driveline. After chewing on possibilities and thinking about the sound as a 1 per rev, I determined it had to be in the front end. Pulled the front dif cover and discovered 2 broken ring teeth. :(

I knew I slammed hard when I broke the link bolt last fall but didn't realize I hit that hard. I remember limping back to the trailer and hearing a repeat clunk but I thought it was the axle out of alignment and the driveshaft hitting the skid plate. Guess not..............

Now it's become obvious that the LP 60 is not going to hold up to 43" Stickies. GAWD I don't want to put in a new front axle right now. So after talking to a bunch of people and some research I landed on buying a Jana76 kit.


So in a couple weeks I will be diving into a new install.
 

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F-U-CANCER!!!
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5,612 Posts
Good work on the fixture.

And while the doubler adds some weight, at least it is probably about the best location to have it.
 

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Don't be a wuss... HIT IT
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1,682 Posts
Very sweet buggy. Congrats Jim! Looking forward to seeing how it evolves.
 

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I'm not old, honest...
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
I stripped the housing last week while waiting for the parts to arrive on Friday. Friday night started out with assessing the kit. Jantz does a nice job of labeling and organizing everything.
IMG_5689.JPG


The housing requires grinding a groove both top and bottom for the ring gear, plus removing some of the rib at the back by the pinion.

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Then you have to open up the flange for the pinion bearing because the new race has a larger step in it.

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A bucket of grinding dust.

IMG_5707.JPG
 

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I'm not old, honest...
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30,409 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Then on to the load bolt install. He supplies a fixture for locating where the load bolt goes. You have to measure in from the snout to the fixture and then transfer the location to the outside of the housing.
IMG_5709.JPG


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Then start opening it up. Once it's open enough, he provides a tapered pin for a good fit. The key is to get it right next to the rib for strength.
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Then preheat and weld. I shot peened the shit out of it to avoid any stress cracks in the future.

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Gustafson
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Awesome job Jim! Thanks for sharing! Hopefully this will hold up for you. :ROFLMAO:
 

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I'm not old, honest...
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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Now on to final set up. This process is no different than any other ring and pinion. We ended up with a really good pattern and .004" backlash. It may sound tight but for this application, tighter is way better than loose. A typical setup looks for .006 - .010". Carl wants to shoot for .002".
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I still need to make a spacer ring for my dif cover because it hits the bigger ring gear. Then button it up and start a slow break in process.
 

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Is any special oil recommended with the backlash that tight?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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I'm not old, honest...
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30,409 Posts
Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Amsoil 90-140 or something like that. What is more important is a slow break in period. Drive it for 15 minutes and let it cool several times.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
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5,850 Posts
BEEFY! Anytime I heat of Jantz I have SUPPPEERRR JEEEEEP play in my head LOL.
 
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