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LCG HIJKLMNOP
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I know this has been discussed before but I have a question. If I can fit my 3rd link on the drivers side, why not run it there? Are there any specific issues I'm overlooking? I'm still planning on running my track bar from the frame drivers side to the pass side on the axle end. Not sure what I'm missing. I've got the brackets made to put it on the pass side but I'm thinking I can put it above the pig and leave the real estate on the pass side for trackbar mount/hydro assist ect. Besides welding to the pig(can truss around it to help hold the brackets), what are the disadvantages of running on the drivers side? Pics:
Pass side mocked in:




Drivers side mocked in.



 

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Whichever side it works best for you is fine. Keep in mind that in a 3 link the one upper is the only thing controlling the rotation of the axle and if the mount is not made well (ie. shitty welds on the cast center section) when it lets loose it can and will take out a shitload of things with it.
 

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i like jungle gym's.
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yep my buddies ripped the mount right out of the frame on his tj.i checked mine after a month and it was doing the same thing....so like tab said, build that thing strong!!
there is a couple of threads i pirate saying you need it on the opposite side as the trackbar mount.but then they say it does not matter.me and my buddy mike both chose the passenger side and have been very happy with the performance.it was the easiest way to mount for our tj's.
 

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sit down shut up and ...
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I vote for just off center toward the pig if possible. Say 4-6" more toward the pig in comparison to your first pic.
 

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F-U-CANCER!!!
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I thought the pig was the deciding factor? The reason to go 3-link versus 4 in the front is because it is hard to package an upper link on the driveshaft side.
 

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yeah, its a barbie jeep
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462 Posts
it is possible to put the upper link on the drivers side, i tried it on my tj, it worked for a while till i flexed out and broke it. then after the third time i decieded to move it to the passenger side and it hasent broke yet. good luck with your build lokin good
 

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LCG HIJKLMNOP
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7,818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mocked up the pass side style mount today. Looks good except for ride height pass side and full bump drivers side sends the mount straight into the oil pan :(


Bump stops :sonicjay: :( Going to take some adjusting :teehee:
 

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feva4u Mocked up the pass side style mount today. Looks good except for ride height pass side and full bump drivers side sends the mount straight into the oil pan
did you have your track bar hooked up when you tested it ?

without the trackbar it will rotate based on the contact point of the jackstand and not give you a true picture of it cycling. the top of that mount will still move in an arc but not in the same way when the bar maintains a centerline for the whole assembly. so - you may not have a clearance issue, but you wont know for sure without the bar in place.

the only other thing id add to whats been said on 3links is that the frame side top mount is usually short on contact area so they act more like a lever against the face of the frame. elongating the footprint of that mount in the same axis as the link will help alot. not sure what youve got in your design but just fwiw -

the build's looking good btw :thumb:
 

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LCG HIJKLMNOP
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7,818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't have my DOM for my steering so I'll mock it in with what I have laying around. Tracbar makes sense.....me=:fish: I'll mock a track bar in today and cycle it again. I've got my hands tied making spring perches ect. Might have to make a call and go pick the plasma up again.......makes things WAY easier!
 

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LCG HIJKLMNOP
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7,818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the only other thing id add to whats been said on 3links is that the frame side top mount is usually short on contact area so they act more like a lever against the face of the frame. elongating the footprint of that mount in the same axis as the link will help alot. not sure what youve got in your design but just fwiw -

Up against the frame. Leaves enough room to get a wrench in to tighten the nut at the lowest setting. I see what you're saying though, I can gusset behind it once it's welded to the frame so the push/pull has support other than the weld on the side of the frame. :thumb:


the build's looking good btw :thumb:
Thanks :thumb:
 
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