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Discussion Starter #81
Drilled two holes, then marked on the pvc the travel my Struts had. That way when cycling, grinding, tack wedding etc my Struts weren't in harms way.

thats not a bad idea but i do have shocks already so i can use them, but i do think i need to figure out different spring rates for them since i bought them used and the guy had them on a lighter truck.
 

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That's a pretty sweet idea @CheapThrillB2 that way you can tack weld, and even finish weld things without needing to pull the shocks for damage control. Mine needs some suspension rework in the front to fit the 40's, so I'll be using that method for sure. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #83
took some measurements last night and this is what i have came up so far for my front end sas triangulated 4 link with no trac bar , like ive said before all new to this, it is my first build. not 100% sure my number are right but it is a start

 

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X2 on the long lowers..and what is the separation on the frame side? It doesnt look like much and the numbers in the picture are to blurry for me to read. Make sure your roll axis is as close to 0 as you can get it

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Discussion Starter #87
Yes. Why such long lowers vs uppers?

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thats what i forgot to change whoops i put in 60inch since thats what size tubing i have ill shorten it up and see how long they will be from axle to trans cross member witch i plan to run them to hopefully, im going to mess with it more tonight for ideas
 

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one thing that worked well for me was putting the axle under the vehicle with the axle and frame at where i wanted/thought ride height would be. from there i measured where things would conveniently fit and tried to visualize if i needed to move a mount up/down/forward/back, just how easy or hard it would be. THEN i went to the calculator... tweaked the numbers with what would reasonably fit, and got to it.

keep in mind the calculator is just a tool... designing something perfect in space and then trying to plug it up to your truck can be difficult, as fitment issues may arise. reverse engineering with the frame and axle in a fixed position would be how i would approach the build/calculator.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
one thing that worked well for me was putting the axle under the vehicle with the axle and frame at where i wanted/thought ride height would be. from there i measured where things would conveniently fit and tried to visualize if i needed to move a mount up/down/forward/back, just how easy or hard it would be. THEN i went to the calculator... tweaked the numbers with what would reasonably fit, and got to it.

keep in mind the calculator is just a tool... designing something perfect in space and then trying to plug it up to your truck can be difficult, as fitment issues may arise. reverse engineering with the frame and axle in a fixed position would be how i would approach the build/calculator.
Thanks ! Yeah doing that right now that was just rough rough calculations with some measurements, truck is sitting kinda high right now on jack stands so need to move axle up little higher on them stands to make up for it then take some new measurements. Picked up some black pipe to use for mock up this weekend
 

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What are you thinking you want for lift? How are you measuring lift? What size tires? On that year truck, i believe the bottom of the fender lip at its highest point, straight through the center of the front axle is 39" from the ground. Just for reference, my truck sits at 43 1/2" ,so 4.5" if lift compared to stock 2500hd trucks. But, if you go to my truck, 1500, the fender sits at 37" stock height, all measured with stock tires.
 

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For comparison reasons between trucks, you'd be better off measuring from center of hub to a common spot on the body (like bottom of fender). Vs measuring from the ground. So many different variables with tire situation that can skew measurements.
 

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For comparison reasons between trucks, you'd be better off measuring from center of hub to a common spot on the body (like bottom of fender). Vs measuring from the ground. So many different variables with tire situation that can skew measurements.
That's why i specifically stated stock tires....i measured probably around 10 random trucks in parking lots and job sites. As long as they have stock tires they all measure within a half inch. It's merely for comparison, it doesn't need to be exact to the mm:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #95
What are you thinking you want for lift? How are you measuring lift? What size tires? On that year truck, i believe the bottom of the fender lip at its highest point, straight through the center of the front axle is 39" from the ground. Just for reference, my truck sits at 43 1/2" ,so 4.5" if lift compared to stock 2500hd trucks. But, if you go to my truck, 1500, the fender sits at 37" stock height, all measured with stock tires.
not sure how much lift i am shooting for yet, i have 37s for the truck right now so trying to make truck big enough to clear 40-42s or so, so building it a little bigger the 37s will probably look a little small on it when done but we will see. took more measurements last night , how truck sits right now i think i am going to shoot for that ride hight or little lower im sure once shocks compress, middle of frame under cab is about 31 inch from ground. and have center of front axle off gorund under it at about 17 inches looks like 42inch lower bars would work and 30-32 inch uppers, going to cut some mock up bars that long and tack them in place and check it out after i clock my t case down a little more and fab up a trans crossmember in the factory location witch i plan to run my lower link bars to and then uppers to inside the frame rails pretty much where the frame starts to straighten out at the front of the cab from it coming down from wheel well.
 

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Still pretty big difference in the lowers to uppers. If anything you want your uppers longer than the lowers so your pinion will rotate up during droop. Longer lowers will rotate your axle down during droop,and most definitely cause drive line issues.
I also clear 39" tires at my height at full stuff full lock with minor fender trim at the cab. I suggest you move the axle forward at least 6" from stock if you want to clear 42's eventually. Mine is about 3" forward, and i can't clear my 40's at full lock full stuff, there's no more room to clearance into the cab. Also, my frame is 19" from the ground at the trans c member.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Still pretty big difference in the lowers to uppers. If anything you want your uppers longer than the lowers so your pinion will rotate up during droop. Longer lowers will rotate your axle down during droop,and most definitely cause drive line issues.
I also clear 39" tires at my height at full stuff full lock with minor fender trim at the cab. I suggest you move the axle forward at least 6" from stock if you want to clear 42's eventually. Mine is about 3" forward, and i can't clear my 40's at full lock full stuff, there's no more room to clearance into the cab. Also, my frame is 19" from the ground at the trans c member.
do you have some pics of yours you can post ?

i can make uppers longer then but dont want to make lowers shorter since i am mounting them to cross member. the axle is about 3 inches forward id say from stock how i have it right now maybe ill slide it ia couple more forward but will also have to make lowers longer to, how much longer do you think lowers should be than uppers video i watch said uppers should be 70% length of lowers
 

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Which pics? I have all of them in my thread on here and pirate.
My uppers and lowers are equal length(30 1/2" c to c). My pinion does not rotate at all, the castor stays at 6° throughout the range of travel. If you make the uppers longer than the lowers, your pinion will rotate up towards the t case during down travel, making the drive line happier. I'm doing my front suspension over again. My 40's won't fit. I'm moving my apple forward 3", building a new trans c member to carry the lower links on larger angles (to fit the 40's at full lock), new shock hoops, new upper [email protected] and frame (running the upper parallel to the frame, and more separation at the axle) with 6" longer links both upper and lower.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Which pics? I have all of them in my thread on here and pirate.
My uppers and lowers are equal length(30 1/2" c to c). My pinion does not rotate at all, the castor stays at 6° throughout the range of travel. If you make the uppers longer than the lowers, your pinion will rotate up towards the t case during down travel, making the drive line happier. I'm doing my front suspension over again. My 40's won't fit. I'm moving my apple forward 3", building a new trans c member to carry the lower links on larger angles (to fit the 40's at full lock), new shock hoops, new upper [email protected] and frame (running the upper parallel to the frame, and more separation at the axle) with 6" longer links both upper and lower.
nvm i remember your truck the blue 1500, sounds like your new plan is about what i am doing, you going to full hydro steering and loosing that lame trac bar and cross over steering lol ?
 

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That's why i specifically stated stock tires....i measured probably around 10 random trucks in parking lots and job sites. As long as they have stock tires they all measure within a half inch. It's merely for comparison, it doesn't need to be exact to the mm:confused:
Different air pressure and different brand tires can have a fairly large margin of error. 1/2" to me seems like a fairly decent amount when taking on a build and wanting done right. Maybe not exact Mm, but why leave a 1/2" to chance?
 
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