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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK I started to do this and found out it is not a simple DIY job as the Manual says live and learn right 2001 D30 front Pinion seal . However there are some that say it is? There seem to be more than
one right way to do it....I have the thing apart and I need to put it back together I want to do this with out destroying my front pinion bearings so what is the best way for me to do this. [ Answer]..... I know!!! Take it to some one that knows what there doing. I would like to be able to do this my self in the future so I guess now is the time to learn. I have a Snap on 1/2 Drive torque Wrench and a KD tool 1/4 inch Drive that measures 0-50 inch pounds. I am told I can reuse the crush washer by the dealer and toque to specs. I did not have the 1/4" torque wrench when I started. Please try to keep the jokes to a minimum I am all
too aware of the Mistakes I have made. Im out of a job and cash is vary short and stress vary High right now so any help would be VARY Appreciated Thank you.
 

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Honestly, your biggest mistake was taking it apart before asking. now it's to late to really "do it right" to a certain extend.

right now, the best advice i would give you is to turn it on by hand with a
3/8's wratchet until it's tight. then after practicing gun control with a 1/2" impact on something OTHER than your pinion, use the impact to turn the pinion another 1/4 turn and hope for the best.

sorry dude. you are doing the right thing by wanting to do the work on your own to save money, but next time ask the questions BEFORE you take stuff apart.
 

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When I did my rear it was pretty simple I had a torque wrench ready, but never needed the pinion nut was so tight I had to use a 4' pipe as a breaker bar. Did mine in May have had no problems since, I think it's one of those over thought repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks front Drive pinion seal

Thanks the guy that was helping me said he knew what he was doing, but by the time figured out he didn't it was to late. He is a good guy so I'm not going to bitch what is done is done but we are now both learning.
I read that I can take a Beam style torque wrench and tighten it down with that and watch for the torque to spike up and that should be when I hit the crush sleeve. then put the Inch pound torque wrench on and check rotating torque then tighten it till the is between 7.5 and 11 inch pounds of rotating torque. or just feel for slop and tightness.
Another good idea for anyone else that reads this is to mark the bolt location on the threads by drawing a line from the Nut to the threads then count the threads like doing a tie rod end.
Also guess can i just not put it in 4 wheel and drive it to a shop if I don't feel that I have it right? And pay to have them put another seal and crush sleeve in and do it right Anyone know a good Shop Close by linden??? Anyone been to Unlimited 4X4 off Thompson Rd??.... Any other Ideas??
 

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correct. marking the threads and counting them and marking the nut to pinion shaft location is the "best improper" way to replace that seal. then when you put the nut back on, you line all those marks back up and give it another 1/4 turn. that's actually what "most" mechanics at any shop will do. but since you already had the nut out, you obviously didn't have that advantage. as far as not putting it in 4wd, that doesn't really matter, because unless you have vacuum disconnect or manual locking hubs, your pinion will still turn as you drive down the road. at this point "what i would personally do", is to just try and use the torque wrench to hit the tight spot. then use a breaker bar or a impact and give it another 1/4 turn. that should put you close. it may work, or it may not. but at this point, there is no guarantee. then again, there really never is a guarantee. anything can potentially break no matter how good it's set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well Ill let you know how it works out. Thanks for the advice I have to get a quick sleeve for the yoke it has a nice grove in it I have the friction modifier from Chrysler . I think I will be ok. I hear some guys that just take it off and put it back together lol. Like the guy who started mine, he did his whole rear end and never torqued anything. I need him to pick Lotto numbers for me. I am not that lucky. O well Thanks again and hope this post helps others wish me luck:)roadhouse
 

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ur working on a Dana30. why are you adding friction modifier??? or do you have an aftermarket traction aid that requires friction modifier???

you are working on your front axle right???
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Friction Modifier question

I am replacing the Gear oil in the differential also The 01 TJ front Axle is a Dana 30 with a Limited Slip Differential that requires 4 oz of Friction modifier when you replace the gear oil. Well I got it back together and all seems well. It is not leaking and not making any noise. In 4wheel and 2 wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Stock limited slip Trac-Lok differential in the 01 TJ Dana 30 front Axle. Feel free to call the dealer or look in the book. And thank you for you help. I hope I can help you out some day.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think Im ok

No leak still and sounds good so I think Im ok. I talked to another buddy of mine and told him I did a pinion seal he said ya I had to do one on my Grand Cherokee
I asked him how he did it he said I just took it off and put a new seal in it and tightened the bolt back down lol. Well all I know is I know how to do it the right way and the "right wrong way" and next time I bet I could do it on the trail if I had to in about 1/2 hour thanks for all the help and suggestions and I hope this post help others .
 
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