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1997 F250 Powerstroke build or scrap lol

40K views 347 replies 17 participants last post by  SHARPMACHINE  
#1 ·
A few months back I stumbled across this F250, I like that it's a "real" truck, longbed, 4x4, diesel.

It was pretty cheap, only has 185,000 miles on it, starts easily, runs well other than an exhaust leak..

Downside is it only has reverse, and it's rusty AF.

Like, punt the entire body kind of rusty.

Guy who owned it, pretty sure he kept every piece of trash he every brought into the truck since 1997, in the truck.

So I haven't really decided if I want to throw a few thousand at it and have a decent, simple work/camping truck... Or just pull the engine and collect my money and be done with it.

Cabs are easy enough to find and cheap enough to buy, I just don't know that I feel like doing another "build" with my 4runner, C10, D100, and entire shop and powder coating also going on.

But if I do decide to build it, I'll share it here.
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#289 ·
So yeah, I sold, or will sell, off the 7.3 and all it's stuff to fund this. The stupid 7.3 HPOP went for 200 no muss no fuss to CNC Fab, the longblock went to scrap, the injectors went to Marketplace, I'll sit on the turbo until everyone is Earned Income Credit rich for a few weeks.

This is a 93 VE pump engine dude swapped for a PPump engine, so it needs a balancer, water neck, and power steering pump.

Still have my ZF5 and NV271, so the adapter/flywheel/clutch to marry them and I can stab the whole deal in the spring time.
 
#290 ·
So maybe I missed it, but why the decision to switch engines? 7.3 powerstrokes are so highly praised, I'm just surprised you're swapping in a Cummins. (which I also know if very highly praised)
 
#291 ·
Strictly cost/benefit.

I only want to be around 350 hp and 700 ft/lbs.

Powerstroke needs injectors, tuning, fuel supply, etc etc etc to get there. Plus I need an oil pan and a manifold, 500 bucks right there.

Cummins needs a fuel line hooked to it and 12v to the fuel solenoid.

By the time I sell off the 7.3 stuff after New Years, this will be a wash in cost to have a simpler, more widely supported engine.
 
#296 ·
Dropped a spring in my pump while doing a Governor spring and fuel pin :mad:

Led to me making a tool to bar the engine over.

Found the pump timing off from stock by two teeth :ROFLMAO: Jumping one tooth isn't wildly uncommon, two is just someone's stupid mistake. Same as blocking the AFC system off.

So anyway, it's now running 6x11 injectors, a 3800 RPM gov spring, 1 tooth advanced on the gear, but pump pulled back to stock.

Flywheel, rear main, and front seals are en route to further this along.

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#306 ·
I was going to pick up a junkyard axle yesterday to swap into the rear, but came across a complete SD dually 4x4 chassis, for 500 bucks, so I went and bought that instead lol.

Think I'll just drop the cab onto it. At this point, I've paid 700 bucks for a door with my name on it 😄Since everything from the original truck is gone now.

BTW, 10/10 do not recommend this tow. Actually stopped a few miles down the road and slept in this parking lot and had it flatbedded in the AM. The ad did not show that absurd bumper lol.

I tried to think of 1000 lbs of stuff I could buy from that Farm and Fleet to get some tongue weight, but I really don't need/want anything.

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#310 ·
Alot of work to land back where I was? Or maybe slightly ahead?

Anyway, my Superduty chassis is the same cab confirguration as my OBS, Supercab.

So the front cab mount spacing is identical, using the OBS cab mounts in the Super Duty, (Super Duty are weird threaded, and I don't have the bolts or they might work too), I dropped the cab onto chassis, which set the spacing for the core support and rear cab mounts, which do not at all line up.

So, I will have to make new rear cab mounts, and notch my core support to get it over the sway bar mount (or something to clear it or relocate it), and my "axle swap" will be complete.

Also removed the cab from the old frame, loaded old frame onto trailer, cut into pieces.

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