You’re playing with fire but I’m sure you know that, those injectors are finicky. Hope one doesn’t stick or dump too much fuel and burn a hole or melt a piston. Good luck lol


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I don't know that.

I foolishly expect my injectors that worked just fine before, to work just fine after replacing one part in them and 5 Orings.

I'm crazy like that.

 

Took a field trip to Ft Wayne today and grabbed a 80-86 style grille and all the bits and bobs to go with it.

Will still need fenders, hood, cowl cover, and to modify my core support for the headlight buckets of the earlier truck.

 

Took a field trip to Ft Wayne today and grabbed a 80-86 style grille and all the bits and bobs to go with it.

Will still need fenders, hood, cowl cover, and to modify my core support for the headlight buckets of the earlier truck.

View attachment 283052

Looks like it's in great shape.

 

love you are doing your own injectors. I remember back when you could order a set of DIY injectors for cheap.... I didn't have the money so I was unable to. Now the truck just rusts away in my backyard lol.

Was always fun trying to buy 97 f350 stuff.

People just rather drop money for a set of professionally rebuilt injectors. I see no reason why yours will not work. It appears you know what you are doing and taking your time. Once they see them working, they will be asking you to make them some.

 

love you are doing your own injectors. I remember back when you could order a set of DIY injectors for cheap.... I didn't have the money so I was unable to. Now the truck just rusts away in my backyard lol.

Was always fun trying to buy 97 f350 stuff.

People just rather drop money for a set of professionally rebuilt injectors. I see no reason why yours will not work. It appears you know what you are doing and taking your time. Once they see them working, they will be asking you to make them some.

There's a lot of, "well if you want it to run right" and "for my peace of mind" and "you don't know what the professionals know"

And not so much acknowledgement that I actually have both parts in my hands to see the differences lol.

And no explanation as to why taking a functioning injector apart, replacing the O-rings, and one part with a different part that's also a factory part, will cause the moon to fall from the sky...

People like to justify the money they've spent, and people selling shit get threatened when someone comes along and shows folks how.

Anyway, from left to right, is a 29.1mm 180CC intensifier piston, 29.7mm 160cc intensifier piston I machined myself, 29.7mm 160cc intensifier piston I bought from Interstate McBee, and the stock 90cc AA code intensifier piston.

 

Scored a Ranch Hand bumper today for 300 bucks.

Idk what the original application was, it's been cut on a bit, bit it'll serve my purposes once I cut and flip the brackets and re-powder coat it.

My new core support will need more modification than I thought to fit the bullnose headlight buckets, I'll keep my eyes open in the yard for one I can cut up. I found a whole front clip in Akron, but I really don't feel like doing that kind of round trip for something I don't exactly need at the moment.

 

That's a great score.

 

The main thing with diesel injectors is not getting shit in them, and having the pop rate and flow rate match and be the desired amount. I don't know much about the powerstroke injectors, but I've had my fair share of experience with Bosch Reman, and the tolerance stackup and bore fits makes it something not recommended for your average home gamer. Not trying to stop you because I agree with you. Your average injector rebuilder probably has very little idea on what he was doing when he started, and might still not know what he is doing now versus how it was made in the OEM.

 

I guess that's the whole thing.

I don't expect it to be perfect, but FFS I work in manufacturing and have for 15 years lol. We pay people 15 bucks an hour, any clown who can fog a mirror, and ship any out of spec stuff we think we can get away with. And that was true when I worked for Stellantis or Magna and even now at my lowly little tier 2.

It's usually fine, and if it isn't, I'll just redo it. No big deal to me.

 

I guess that's the whole thing.

I don't expect it to be perfect, but FFS I work in manufacturing and have for 15 years lol. We pay people 15 bucks an hour, any clown who can fog a mirror, and ship any out of spec stuff we think we can get away with. And that was true when I worked for Stellantis or Magna and even now at my lowly little tier 2.

It's usually fine, and if it isn't, I'll just redo it. No big deal to me.

Most bores were precise enough to require air gauging for plungers. Lots of super precise heidenhain gauges too. It will probably work as long as there is at least the minimum amount of clearance, but always curious about longevity. Fuel erosion is a thing.

 

Well wurst case scenario he is out 200 bucks and some time f-ing around with them best case he saved 1500 bucks to put somewhere else in the project. I don't see a problem with those odds.




RBB

 

Well wurst case scenario he is out 200 bucks and some time f-ing around with them best case he saved 1500 bucks to put somewhere else in the project. I don't see a problem with those odds.




RBB

I mean, I can play devils advocate there also. Too much play causing a lean condition, blowing out/burning up the nozzles, and potentially burning holes in pistons.

Live and learn though, it could be just fine for a long time.

 

All I'm saying, to anyone, is I don't see why they'd come out any worse than they started out.

Truck fired right up and ran tits with not one, but 2 holes rusted clean through the cylinder head, not the manifold, the head.

So... I expect it to fire right up and run even better with the same injectors, more fuel, and no rust holes lol.

Put 4 of them together last night, took me about 45 minutes for all 4, the off color one on the left with the different part number is my favorite one, I call that one squirty.

 

Squirty....

 

I have a 84? F250 with a 6.9diesel I’ll be chopping up shortly and if I recall the front clip is in pretty nice shape, next time I’m back in the junkyard with a shovel I’ll clean it off and snag some pics for ya if you want

 

That would be great, where are you located?

I also found a few in a crusty old junkyard today,

They're not open Saturdays so I'll have to figure out a day I want off work to go hang out, cool guys, said I can use the boom truck, whatever.

 

6 mile?

 

Yep, nice guys

 

New body mounts came in, right now the cab is sitting on some 2x4 chunks lol.

Will probably not lock the cab down until I put the engine and trans back in though, but I can at least set it up correctly and dink around with the bumper and front clip and know where it's actually supposed to fit.

 

Pulled all 8 apart last night, mostly followed the method here, Stock Injector Rebuild - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Found that easier than dropping stuff inside with tweezers lol.

Again, the Orings, check balls, and springs came from, truckrental on eBay

Everything laid out.

Built them up by stacking everything backwards on the body.

When they say you can't put them together wrong, this is what they mean, there's two holes all the way through for pins. One short set of pins goes closest to the nozzle, the two longer pins go further back, the pins are offset, so if you put any component in wrong, it won't line up. You could flip this one upside down though, so make sure it's as shown, the cover goes on "top".

Ready to drop the body over this, I just kind of balanced everything on my finger and lower the body, then flipped it.

Plunger and spring goes in next,

This was the only part where I had difficulty, intensifier piston O-ring.

The groove it fits in is deeper than it appears. If you can squish the front part into it as you're pushing it down, the rest will follow, you can work it around.

Pushing it past and trying to pull it up never worked for me. Had to get the front edge in first.

Looks like this done, then pop the intensifier piston in,

At this point you're ready to put the upper half back on. The pins in the upper need to line up with the pins in the lower. There's an O-ring on the upper to replace, comes in the kit I got from Truck_rental on Ebay.

Lifting up on the nozzle a bit while rotating the upper until a thread caught worked well for me.

Used special tool to torque upper down

My truck ran, and started fine when I started this, 14 degrees, not plugged in, two holes in the cylinder head, one glow plug cycle and it would light off no problem... So I checked the clearances, but I wasn't really worried about shimming anything and saw little need to do so

I never had worse than a tight .004 clearance.

And that's it, took me about 50 minutes to do all 8, surprisingly easy project for a Friday night in the shop.

Mine are going to sit on the shelf for the next 8 months while I finish the rest of my truck lol, but hopefully the pics and information help someone. Don't be discouraged, it's a totally doable project for a gu with mechanical sense.

 

Not a huge deal, spent most of the weekend collecting used oil and changing the wheel bearing on my Ram, but I did manage to drop the upper body mounts under the cab. Back ones were kind of a pain because I had to keep climbing in to look, then climbing out to move the cab, rinse, repeat lol.

Still, mostly empty cab made it pretty easy.

 

Nice work a write up. Too many people are scared to tackle things like that! Most things are rebuildable with good mechanical know-how an a “I can figure it out” attitude.

I checked out that ford, the fenders are junk, only thing good was grill/trim
Etc. I’m just outside Marquette in the UP, pretty sure the junkyard ya posted pics is closer lol

 

I appreciate you taking the time, we actually have a few acres outside L'Anse, we look for excuses to go north, but not in the winter lol.

 

Hell yeah, some of my favorite wheelin is in that area!

 

I just found a functioning ZF5 from a wrecked 96 F-250 on car-part.com, 600 bucks cash. Going to pick that up Friday.

Engine is up on the stand to do the oil pan and dipstick. Just going to strip this pan, zinc coat, then top coat it with powder.

 

Not sure the interchangeability of some of the parts, but that 6.9 f250 I got is a stick truck if ya need pedals/bellhousing/ whatever misc swap parts. I can ship otherwise I’m thinking about making a run towards frankenmuth or traverse city end of march

 

They didn't have it pulled when I got there this morning lol.

But they did let me use their bay, and it was heated in there, and had a hoist, so it went real easy.

Had it out in 45 minutes.

 

Haven't done much since I picked up the ZF6, found out the oil pan was hiding a giant fiberglass patch under the grease, that the Chinese manifold was broken, and yesterday ran the oven for some production work and snuck the core support in.

 

Wow! That looks great!

 

Thank you. I'd like to do the fenders and doors too, and might, I know I won't get paint to match quite right, but I might decide I don't care lol.

 

This weekend I went up to Ludington and picked up a Morosso oil pan, gasket, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel all for 250 bucks!

Looking forward to warmer weather to work outside again.