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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good afternoon guys!
I am looking for any advice from anyone that knows more about Jeeps than I do. I was given an '87 YJ, with a SBC, 400 turbo, and old cast iron GM t/case. As you all probably know the t/case front shaft output is on the opposite side of front axle input. My question for you is would I be further ahead swapping axles, or back to NP231 with adapter kit. If the axle route, which donor vehicle, axle, etc. do I need to be looking for to keep as close to a "bolt-on" as possible? Any help for this new guy would be greatly appreciated. keep in mind this will probably be driven by my wife in summer, and mild wheeling on weekends, just needs to be dependable, yet not wimpy.
 

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I am the law.
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Buy a 205 with a driver's side drop.

Hi. That solves your problem and it is probably why nobody else posted. Doesn't even have to be a 205, but that's what it sounds like you currently have. A driver-drop aluminum 208 or 241 would work fine, also. No aftermarket adaptation aside from matching the spline count to the transmission (unless you really want to buy blingy shit) and no axle swappage. You may have to buy some u-joints to cover the yoke differences on the driveshafts between the YJ's 1310 stuff and whatever you install.

Later on you can bolt in (SOA) a 1978-79 Ford F-250 HPD44/D60 combo or a F-250/F-350 HPD60/D60 combo (also 78-79 only) after you start breaking the YJ's stock axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks a lot for the info. It sounds like I need Ford parts. The G.M. 205's that I've found are passenger drop, but I understand that Fords used a driver drop on some models?? I was worried about the D35 &D 30 holding up, so maybe I ought to look for a donor Ford. Unfortunately, some of the faabrication work on a Ford HPD44/D60 would be new to me, but hell I'm up for trying anything.
 

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Thanks a lot for the info. It sounds like I need Ford parts. The G.M. 205's that I've found are passenger drop, but I understand that Fords used a driver drop on some models?? I was worried about the D35 &D 30 holding up, so maybe I ought to look for a donor Ford. Unfortunately, some of the faabrication work on a Ford HPD44/D60 would be new to me, but hell I'm up for trying anything.
More like all Fords. Even the Ford Dana 20 was driver-drop.

You don't need to fabricate anything on those axles from that application and year range. You just bolt them right to the leafs since the perches are already at the right location. They were SOA from the factory on the Ford trucks. Nothing else bolts right in like the 78-79 Fords. F-150's are not the same. Even Wagoneer axle perches are slightly off. Scout axles have caster issues, aren't flat-top, abnormally long steering arms that cause weird handling and steering issues, and outer knuckle parts that aren't compatible with anything else.
 

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81 inches of fun
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More like all Fords. Even the Ford Dana 20 was driver-drop.

You don't need to fabricate anything on those axles from that application and year range. You just bolt them right to the leafs since the perches are already at the right location. They were SOA from the factory on the Ford trucks. Nothing else bolts right in like the 78-79 Fords. F-150's are not the same. Even Wagoneer axle perches are slightly off. Scout axles have caster issues, aren't flat-top, abnormally long steering arms that cause weird handling and steering issues, and outer knuckle parts that aren't compatible with anything else.
Bolting in a HPD44 front will require some knowledge and machining to install a high steer or crossover steering setup though (and having the tierod/draglink fabricated). Easy enough, but not simply bolt in - other then the bolting to the springs.

As far as the D30 I hammered on mine with a mild V8 for about 4 years and never broke a shaft... just know when to let off or call it quits. The D35 has got to go though, a Ford 8.8 will take the V8 abuse, just weld on spring perches and shock mounts (in the right location).

Pavementpounder is correct on his t-case recommendations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys, I'm on the hunt for a 78-79 Ford F-250. Swapping out front and rear axles, it sounds like I can handle that part, are they a lot wider stance I'm wondering? If they bolt right up, I can kill several birds with one stone. Yhe jeep currently needs a lift anyway, There isn't a hell of a lot of room between motor and differential right now, but the SOA would cure that. Sounds like I'll have to do a little work on the steering, driveshafts, etc., but at least I'm headed in the right direction....Thanks again....any other tidbits of knowledge will help. I'm an information whore.
 

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Thanks guys, I'm on the hunt for a 78-79 Ford F-250. Swapping out front and rear axles, it sounds like I can handle that part, are they a lot wider stance I'm wondering? If they bolt right up, I can kill several birds with one stone. Yhe jeep currently needs a lift anyway, There isn't a hell of a lot of room between motor and differential right now, but the SOA would cure that. Sounds like I'll have to do a little work on the steering, driveshafts, etc., but at least I'm headed in the right direction....Thanks again....any other tidbits of knowledge will help. I'm an information whore.
Traction bar at least out back... and those axles will still require a drivers drop t-case.

The axles will be much wider.

These I think were stock Ford turbine wheels, but I could be wrong (i don't know if they were factory wheels). The tires were 14 or 15.5" wide so it is a little deceiving.



Narrowed up using H1 wheels (take a little more to make fit)

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Final question (at least for now). This 205 out of a Ford will give me the driver's side drop, but will it bolt up to a TH400 that's already in the Jeep?
 
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