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· F-U-CANCER!!!
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You photo bombed your own photo... lol

Project is looking good.
That backwards header has me wondering if this is getting the snail treatment?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
You photo bombed your own photo... lol

Project is looking good.
That backwards header has me wondering if this is getting the snail treatment?
Lol i saw that too... look kinda like a grumpy caveman!

Thanks it's been in the shop taking up room for far too long. Time to get it moving.

Yes sir!!! Probably not at first, but the exhaust will be built with it just so it's bolt in later. I don't want to deal with trying to rebuild the engine before i can even test the suspension, so I'll run with the 260k+ for now. Hopefully by winter 23/24 I'll have a fresh engine ready to install, then take to the dyno tuner to see how many whoopows i can make!
I also might just say fuck it and install/ tune for it right away so i have motivation to build an engine a lot quicker once this one grenades lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The good thing so far is that through 14" of travel there is absolutely no bind and it stays perfectly center throughout, even fully articulated either direction it is free and clear and only off center by 1/2". Just need more damn time lol
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Lol well.....
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Full Articulated bump here... not so good. Outer fender looks to be able to stay in tact(though I'm not Full lock steering here) but the inner fender and more core support need to go. Also need to put my hoops on the top of the frame leaned toward the fender so the shock can be leaned in toward the frame to clear the tire. It's not rubbing the coil much, but at the same time, the rear shock hoop mounts also interfere with the tire lol..... also my p side upper link mount is contacting the oil pan. So have to move that over as well lol which means the d side one has to move for symmetry. Yay!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Finally got some time to work on this pos.
Relocated the shock hoops to the top of the frame via some angle iron mounts I'll turn into straps over top of the frame. The passenger side is a little tight to the turbo header. I'll have to remove it to get the engine out, but that's not a big deal. I hope...
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Also of note, i relocated the upper link mounts on the axle, and the passenger side clears the oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Also clearanced the inner fenders for Articulated suspension travel. They're pretty close, but not perfect yet. I can't quite freely roll the tire, but it will go from full bump to full droop going from lock to lock, well the tire rubs the frame both front and rear a bit, so that will be where i set my lock to lock...i do still have my hydraulic bumps to install, and the travel will be limited by about 1/2" before the shock bottoms anyway, so i probably won't have any rub issues on the fender.
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Did some stuff a while back... haven't had much of a chance to get in the shop lately.
Got the t- case/ underdrive mocked up for the drive shaft in the front. Going double cardon 1410 at the case and 1410 at the axle.
Need to cut a notch in the cross member for more clearance, then get the case mount installed to be finished with that...
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Bump stops also in place on both sides. I'm using a pipe landing pad and only losing 1/4" of travel when fully articulated.
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Installed the over engine tube to connect the shock hoops as well.
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Took the day and did some stuff...
Finally installed my aluminum hubs so i could use my beadlocks that are 8x170. They're super light, didn't get a weight on them yet, but i will.
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also placed my 4 link after i built the rear frame... wrong
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So the jist of it is... it all has to come apart. The frame is too wide and the shocks contact the tires way before full articulation... nice way to end the entire day in the shop lol.. oh well I'll get after it soon again.
 

· I'm not old, honest...
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One thing I can say for certain when flexing in the shop, if it "just barely" clears in the shop, it will hit during use. Everything flexes a little more, frame twists and tires bulge. So if you think it's close but won't hit, don't be surprised if it does on your first shakedown run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
One thing I can say for certain when flexing in the shop, if it "just barely" clears in the shop, it will hit during use. Everything flexes a little more, frame twists and tires bulge. So if you think it's close but won't hit, don't be surprised if it does on your first shakedown run.
Good point. On the front there's plenty of room for everything to give a little more... that's what i was going for on the rear too, but never thought of it that way.
Thanks!
 
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