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Johnny's GoatBuilt JHF buggy build

179K views 986 replies 64 participants last post by  xj4life 
#1 · (Edited)
At post 110 I changed my mind and decided I would build a buggy instead of the Wag. The Wag continues to wait for it's next build.

At post 187 I ordered up a GoatBuilt JHF chassis to hopefully speed this up. (edit: nope)

Current Build plan:
GoatBuilt JHF Chassis, 108" wheelbase, "jeep" hood and grille
2007 Ford F250 Dana 60, 5.38, Sparty locker, JHF high-steer
- narrowed 4" to use 78 F250 axleshaft on the long side, using factory 1550 shafts
1998 Chevy K3500 14-bolt, shaved, 5.38, Detroit, 1/2t chevy disc brakes
39" BFG Krawler Red labels on KMC Machete Beadlocks
2001 GMC Yukon XL 6.0L LQ4
  • Holley TerminatorX EFI
  • Champ oil pan (high-ish clearance, baffled, steel)
  • Dorman LS2 car intake and Warr cable throttle body
  • Holley fuel rails with late-model 6.0 truck injectors (EV6, E85 flow rates, 12613412)
  • Goatbuilt accessory brackets, TC pump on driver's side, alt on passenger
  • GM 706 heads
  • BTR Truck Norris cam
TH400 built by Tranny Tom, Reverse Manual with Winters/WOD shifter
Atlas transfer case, 3.0 low range
Fox 2.5 air shocks
PSC Full Hydro, 2.5x10" ram, TC-pump
Mastercraft cheap seats with Impact 5-point harnesses
Griffin 31x19 radiator, Derale 16927 shroud and twin fans
Goatbuilt fuel tank and factory fuel pump
Magnaflow muffler mpe-12649



==================

I bought my Wagoneer in 1997. It was my first 4x4 and I bought it so that me and my friends could go camping and have room for our gear since we all drove econoboxes. That fall I ended up moving to Germany for 18 months and it went into storage.

When I got back I rebuilt the AMC 360 with the help of a friend, and we did enough maintenance on the rest to get it on the road. Over the next few years it got a 4" lift and went from 31s and then 35s when I put a 3" body lift. We did some wheeling with it and eventually I put it on 33 Stampers from my old Wrangler.

In around 2005 it was parked due to lack of time and using any spare time on my Wrangler. A few years later we stole the drive train for the TREC Wagoneer, and it has sat since.

Over the summer I got out of racing, bought a RZR and drug this back in the shop. I'm thinking I want to get it back on the road and trails.









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#74 ·
I had to clean some a few years back. I was working on a 9? gm car, 3100 engine iirc. Looked all over on the net for the best way to do it. Ended up with them in a plastic bottle with some seafoam. Let them sit in there for a day and sloshed it around once in a while. They worked great afterward.
 
#78 · (Edited)


My scrap parts fuel injector energizer. We will see if this works.

Edit:
Was able to push sea foam through all injectors on even bank, pattern looked good after running it through. No love. Thinking I am going to grab a can of carb cleaner not in a aerosol can and try again. Also going to grab quick connects and plumb in an external fuel pump I have sitting here.

2nd Edit:
Put on spare external fuel pump, no difference. Fuel pressure remained the same. Ran a can of 50/50 mix Seafoam/fresh Premium through and no better either. Didn't even put on a smoke show. Reroute PCV away from intake and capped it, then capped off the purge and EGR stuff, too. Idle map hangs around 37-39 kpa.
 
#79 ·
Ok, last night I looked back into service manual looking for something I've overlooked. Decided this morning to start at square 1 again. Used trouble light to verify that known good and bad cylinder was firing injector. Used spark plug tester to verify those cylinders were firing. It was fine during compression test, and injectors were moving fuel with a reasonable spray pattern; so all the elements are there for combustion. Cats are gone so I know there's no exhaust restriction.

I decided to once again pull MAF sensor, and with everything else hooked up I noticed that Misfires went away. Did a quick road test and no misfires. Plugged MAF back in and while the P0102 was still in history did another drive and misfire returned. Pulled MAF and no misfires again. Gotta do some stuff this afternoon, but plan is to clean MAF again and maybe put a cheap CAI on it to see if maybe there's unmetered air coming from intake tube that TPS/MAP can adjust to. I figure the CAI will be reusable, and I want to see this run with no lights.
 
#83 ·
#89 · (Edited)


This is engine running about 2500rpm in 2nd gear down a flat road in steady state. Short term keeps flipping. Stays under 10%. Long terms are under 5%.

Misfire zone is between 1500-3000. All else seems ok.

Red : Misfire Cylinder 5 (one of 4 cylinders misfiring), counts 0 to 80, resets and starts counting again
Green : Fuel Trim Long Term Bank 1, sits at 4
Blue: Fuel Trim Short Term Bank 1, switches between +6/-2
Purple: Fuel Trim Long Term Bank 2, sits at just over 2
Yellow: Fuel Trim Short Term Bank 2, switches between +4/-4
 
#94 · (Edited)
Not sure, but I said f-it and decided to start pulling the drivetrain. Pulled the exhaust manifolds that were leaking like crazy. Was looking to see if I could fix driver's head stud, but decided it was pretty well buried and easier to fix on the stand. Will pull engine apart to check for wear while on the stand.

Spent the rest of the day under the vehicle pulling shafts, exhaust, and unplugging everything. Still have a bunch to disconnect before pulling the drivetrain out.
 
#104 ·
If you need to use a scanner let me know.
I have my Snap-On Solus here. No issue with you needed to use it.
 
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