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Old January 27th, 2015, 08:38 PM   #61
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Thanks, you too! As soon as I get this hp44 in ill be locked in the front and able to keep up with you guys better.
yea open front was for sure the only real downfall of your rig
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Old January 30th, 2015, 10:17 AM   #62
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HP 44 is pretty much stripped all the way down. Knuckles took some serious pb blaster and heat but they eventually came off. I pretty much had it all laid out on what I want to run. Dodge diver inner shaft at 16.5" and waggy passenger inner shaft at 32.12" so the axle would be bout 1" wider than my 8.8. I would run adapters to keep my JK moabs and I would be set. Then I realized lockouts wont fit through the JK wheels. So now I think im just going to shorten the passenger side to fit a rubicon 44 shaft which is about 2" shorter. I will order up a set of steel 5x5.5 pattern wheels and then get adapters for the 8.8 and I should be good to go. The only thing im worried about is where that pinion sits and if im going to have clearance issues with the drive shaft.
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Old January 30th, 2015, 12:12 PM   #63
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You can most likely bore out the center of the wheels if you're intent on running those. I know @RDK_YJ88 did that with a set of Dodge wheels I sold him years ago.
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Old January 30th, 2015, 02:18 PM   #64
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You can most likely bore out the center of the wheels if you're intent on running those. I know @RDK_YJ88 did that with a set of Dodge wheels I sold him years ago.

X2 I would think there would be enough room with the 5x5 bolt pattern
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Old January 30th, 2015, 08:46 PM   #65
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I guess I didn't think about that. Ill have to do some measuring tomorrow to figure it out. I have been thinking about it a little more and a set of steel wheels wouldn't be all bad. I wouldn't have to run adapters in the front and it would be semi cheap to convert them to bead locks down the road. And the backspacing on the JK wheels is absolutely terrible.
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Old January 31st, 2015, 07:33 AM   #66
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I think those wheels would look cool with a lockout sticking out of them
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Old January 31st, 2015, 07:57 AM   #67
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I agree haha. I have always loved the look of the Moab style wheels too. I priced out steel wheels and they are like $90 a pop for new 17x8. For that price I think I'm better off sticking with the moabs. I'll talk to the machine shop this week.
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Old January 31st, 2015, 08:33 AM   #68
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Who tuned your vss issue out of your computer?
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Old January 31st, 2015, 08:56 AM   #69
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I believe his name was Brian maybe? He worked at grand valley auto parts where I got the motor from and he agreed to tune it for me if I got the motor. As far as I know he doesn't work there anymore. You might be able to go there and get his contact info though
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Old January 31st, 2015, 08:59 AM   #70
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I agree haha. I have always loved the look of the Moab style wheels too. I priced out steel wheels and they are like $90 a pop for new 17x8. For that price I think I'm better off sticking with the moabs. I'll talk to the machine shop this week.
I bet some creativity/finesse and a holesaw and you'd be able to do it yourself. When I was getting my first set of H2 wheels bored out I had trouble finding anyone with a lathe big enough to fit them. It could be done on a mill with the right setup too, but I ended up opening up mine with a die grinder and a carbide burr and it worked great. It'd be a lot of material to remove for hubs that way, but you could holesaw it and then clean it up/clearance it with a die grinder.
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Old January 31st, 2015, 12:17 PM   #71
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Did you have any balancing issues when you did that? I do a lot of work with the local machine shops for my job and I don't think I would have a huge issue getting it done. I measured my moabs and the biggest the lockout can be is a 3" outer diameter. Im still not opposed to steel wheels yet either. If anyone is interested in 4 JK moabs with 1.25" adapters to use on a TJ let me know.
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Old January 31st, 2015, 05:00 PM   #72
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Did you have any balancing issues when you did that? I do a lot of work with the local machine shops for my job and I don't think I would have a huge issue getting it done. I measured my moabs and the biggest the lockout can be is a 3" outer diameter. Im still not opposed to steel wheels yet either. If anyone is interested in 4 JK moabs with 1.25" adapters to use on a TJ let me know.

How much?
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Old January 31st, 2015, 05:42 PM   #73
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The price it would cost me to buy steel wheels and adapters for my 8.8. So like $350
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Old February 5th, 2015, 07:26 PM   #74
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HP44 is stripped down and the long side inner C is cut off. Most likely going to shorten just the long side and run a tj rubicon 44 inner shaft and just keep my eyes out for a set of used 5x5.5 wheels. I also got all the parts for the re gear in so hopefully I can wrap that up this week.
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Old February 15th, 2015, 05:54 PM   #75
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Dana 44 is re geared. Just need to do final assembly with the new bearings. I ended up with .011" in back lash, about 15 in/lb and a good pattern. I also sold my Jk wheels and adapters. So I will be ordering up a set of steel wheels and then getting adapters for the 8.8.
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Old February 15th, 2015, 09:54 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by Ryanw10 View Post
Did you have any balancing issues when you did that? I do a lot of work with the local machine shops for my job and I don't think I would have a huge issue getting it done. I measured my moabs and the biggest the lockout can be is a 3" outer diameter. Im still not opposed to steel wheels yet either. If anyone is interested in 4 JK moabs with 1.25" adapters to use on a TJ let me know.
Not that it matters now since you sold your wheels, but I just saw this. No balancing issues. It's a minimal amount of material removed, and it's damn near the center of the wheel so any minor weight difference would have less effect than the same difference further out.
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Old March 2nd, 2015, 07:09 PM   #77
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Progress has been a little slow, waiting on my tax return to order the rest of the parts. Axle is cut and the inner C is back on, I want to wait to weld it though til I do final assembly. I also got my knuckles drilled out on the mill at work to 3/4" for the heims. I got spring break next week so hopefully all my parts will be in and I can at least get it rolling on the new axle. In the mean time though its rolling on 30" spares in the back and some small trailers tires in the front. I think a burnout might be in order with the spares. I also confirmed that I have the 1/2" axle tubes.

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Old March 7th, 2015, 09:42 PM   #78
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Pretty much all my parts came in, all im waiting for is my brackets from the laser cutter. Ripped the old hp 30 out and got to assembling hp 44. I also brought my carrier and spider gears into work today and got that all welded together.

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Old March 10th, 2015, 10:19 PM   #79
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The track bar mount is a pain in the ass on these things to remove, took me almost 2 hours! Anyway steering is pretty much good to go and the track bar is not to far behind. Drag link and track bar are going to end up within an inch of each other and less than 1 degree from each other.



Here is the mock up of my trackbar mount. Im getting inner C gussets laser cut and the tube will weld to the gusset.


And I finally ordered my oil pan! I went with the auto kraft, same dimensions as the f body and uses the stock oil filter. That is supposed to come this week yet so hopefully this weekend I will get that installed and build a skid for it
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Old March 14th, 2015, 08:16 PM   #80
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The jeep rolls! but thats it haha i managed to knick a power steering line so now its spews fluid everywhere. Everything is just tacked together right now but I think I have everything set up how I want. I moved the steering box forward about 2.5" for the stretch. Wheel base should end up between 97-98". For the steering box I started by cutting the bracket off and shifting it forward 2.5". I forgot to take a picture but I cut a section out of the cross member and was able to modify and re weld that section back in. For the steering shaft I just cut and extended it with some DOM. I also used DOM for the third mounting hole.



My new wheels havent come yet so I took a pair from my willys
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