Alright fine, I'll make a new build thread :finger: :sonicjay:
Bought a MandM offroad chassis from PJ, super good dude to deal with and super nice. HIGHLY recommend. http://mandmfab.com/id68.html
This is chassis #20
Just to clarify the extent of driving on roads would be to/from trail heads, campgrounds to parks etc....not gonna be driving this to work or to get groceries etc...
I agree why would you drive your expensive tires on the highway anyway. I would drive at city speeds where you have more reaction time. Not for legality but for safety.
Haven't touched it yet. Waiting on parts, and waiting on the oppurtunity to work on it for then 30 minutes at a time. And I probably won't get that till weds evening if I am lucky.
Section 257.710c
(4) Notwithstanding subsection (2), a person shall not operate a motor vehicle having lift blocks between the front axle and springs, or with lift blocks that exceed 4 inches in height between the rear axle and springs in addition to those provided by the original manufacturer. Any body lift block shall be of single piece construction and shall not use more than a 3-inch spacer. Any suspension lift block shall use an alignment pin between the axle and the spring, and shall be of single piece construction. Spring shackle replacements shall not exceed the original equipment manufacture length by more than 2 inches, and coil spring spacers are prohibited. All steering components shall be geometrically arranged to function as original equipment manufacture. Welded pitman arms, drag links, and tie rods are prohibited. All parts used to modify the original suspension or height of a motor vehicle shall be factory manufactured and shall meet or exceed the original manufacturer's specifications.
This thread is not about steering or whether or not it's to be a trailer queen.
All steering components shall be geometrically arranged to function as original equipment manufacture. Welded pitman arms, drag links, and tie rods are prohibited. All parts used to modify the original suspension or height of a motor vehicle shall be factory manufactured and shall meet or exceed the original manufacturer's specifications.
This thread is not about steering or whether or not it's to be a trailer queen.
No it's not but it is about John making good decisions for his build.
Full hydro is geometrically arranged to function as OE. It adjusts both tires together as the steering wheel is rotated. Since there is no pitman arm, drag link or tie rod, that portion does not apply.
To me, it's still grey enough that it could be argued. Won? I hope I don't have to try.:sonicjay:
Either way, after having no assist, hydro assist and full hydro, for a buggy I would not even consider anything but full hydro.
I was asking for real. I always thought it was a grey area since some vehicles come with hydro steering and/or hydro assist. FWIW my full hydro works and feels better than it did with the old sloppy stock stuff.
What is the difference in feel between hydro assist and full hydro. Ive driven heavy equipment with full hydro and besides less feel, It seemed the same
I haven't noticed any feel off road in the way of reaction but my assist did pretty good. Definitely turns smoother in binding situations.
On highway it wanders a little more. That and the internal leakage of the orbital lets the wheel gradually drift. I've driven 30+ miles to a trail head and didn't feel uncomfortable.
Are your links holding your heims on your full welded whiterhino? John was running a single ended ram with a tie rod. Not sure if he had welded in bungs on the tie rod or not but I think he does. My tie rod and drag link have welded joints so i'm in violation as well. If he's going to have a bronco vin, it won't be manufacturers spec.....but again, why the f does it matter? I'll go out on a limb and say he's not going to sacrifice offroad performance for on road legality. Back to the bronc....err buggy build :thumb:
Hiems at the knuckles with weld in bungs and a single ended ram is what I was running on the bronco the last few months, prior was heims at knuckles, weld in bungs, but a tie rod at the pitman and no assit.
Will it be driven on the road-yes, will I drive it on the road for any other reason to get directly from point a to b to wheel-no
I have zero desire to run a external pump, my old tank was 19 gallons and was just about perfect for fuel usage with my combo. My pump was 40 gph and 45psi operating pressure. Are there options out there for good fuel cells and running an in tank pump? I prior setup was a 96 f250 rear tank, stock sender and pump etc...if I could I would just rerun the same tank but I can't.
Why not modify a cell, like the one I have for an intank pump? That is if you can't reasonably buy one.... I bet we could make it work, do mine st the same time. I have a stock ranger unit I was gonna mod to put in my cell one of these days.
modify a cell or pay the baller type money for the aftermarket stuff. im in the middle of this process now. i have the pump mounted in tank. now i have to find a way of getting the power wires out of the cell safely.
Got some indirect work done on it today. Split from work early and spent a couple hrs power washing my axles and rims/tires. Suppose to get my truss's and my coilover mounts tomorrow. Waiting on another shipment from ruff stuff and my clocking ring.
Still in need of a 80's kingpin 60 or another bj 60 housing.
Get married, have a kid, and a 60 hr a week job. I know when you were doing yours you werent working a full time job the wjole time :finger: :sonicjay:
I have a email asking if drop ship or in house. I imagine by the time they respond it will be to late.
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