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Johnny's GoatBuilt JHF buggy build

179K views 986 replies 64 participants last post by  xj4life 
#1 · (Edited)
At post 110 I changed my mind and decided I would build a buggy instead of the Wag. The Wag continues to wait for it's next build.

At post 187 I ordered up a GoatBuilt JHF chassis to hopefully speed this up. (edit: nope)

Current Build plan:
GoatBuilt JHF Chassis, 108" wheelbase, "jeep" hood and grille
2007 Ford F250 Dana 60, 5.38, Sparty locker, JHF high-steer
- narrowed 4" to use 78 F250 axleshaft on the long side, using factory 1550 shafts
1998 Chevy K3500 14-bolt, shaved, 5.38, Detroit, 1/2t chevy disc brakes
39" BFG Krawler Red labels on KMC Machete Beadlocks
2001 GMC Yukon XL 6.0L LQ4
  • Holley TerminatorX EFI
  • Champ oil pan (high-ish clearance, baffled, steel)
  • Dorman LS2 car intake and Warr cable throttle body
  • Holley fuel rails with late-model 6.0 truck injectors (EV6, E85 flow rates, 12613412)
  • Goatbuilt accessory brackets, TC pump on driver's side, alt on passenger
  • GM 706 heads
  • BTR Truck Norris cam
TH400 built by Tranny Tom, Reverse Manual with Winters/WOD shifter
Atlas transfer case, 3.0 low range
Fox 2.5 air shocks
PSC Full Hydro, 2.5x10" ram, TC-pump
Mastercraft cheap seats with Impact 5-point harnesses
Griffin 31x19 radiator, Derale 16927 shroud and twin fans
Goatbuilt fuel tank and factory fuel pump
Magnaflow muffler mpe-12649



==================

I bought my Wagoneer in 1997. It was my first 4x4 and I bought it so that me and my friends could go camping and have room for our gear since we all drove econoboxes. That fall I ended up moving to Germany for 18 months and it went into storage.

When I got back I rebuilt the AMC 360 with the help of a friend, and we did enough maintenance on the rest to get it on the road. Over the next few years it got a 4" lift and went from 31s and then 35s when I put a 3" body lift. We did some wheeling with it and eventually I put it on 33 Stampers from my old Wrangler.

In around 2005 it was parked due to lack of time and using any spare time on my Wrangler. A few years later we stole the drive train for the TREC Wagoneer, and it has sat since.

Over the summer I got out of racing, bought a RZR and drug this back in the shop. I'm thinking I want to get it back on the road and trails.









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#135 ·
1) Cost. $200 for this vs $800-1200 for a Ford Kingpin Dana 60
2) This will be about 1.5-2" narrower than a Kingpin Dana 60
3) I've packed/repacked enough Dana 60 bearings in my life that I'll happily pay a few bucks for unit bearings.
4) 05+ knuckles are huge
5) Factory 35 spline outers
6) Bigger axle tubes
7) Bigger ring and pinion
8) I forget what 8 was for
10) Everything
 
#140 ·
Lol. You can fit the bigger gears, but they didn't come to it them in the f250/350 application.


Beefy's buggy has the gears I took from my 89 kingpin 60 when it got smashed and I installed them into the 06 housing with no issue.

Only real difference I found, was the 05+ don't have the large oil slinger plate under the bottom pinion bearing.
 
#141 ·
Back at it after a few weeks in rehab. Well, PT for ripping my hamstring playing with my daughter back on Mothers Day.

I've wanted to add a fab table to the shop for a while. I had gone back and forth on buying a kit, buying raw materials, or buying one already built. Yesterday I picked this up, and it's good enough for my use. 4x8 1/2 top that is flat enough for my measuring skills.

Now to get it in place and get back to narrowing my front axle.


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#146 ·
1/2" thick fab table, wow, beefy! Nice find! I did something similar but I lopped the legs off, put some 4" steel casters on the bottom, and fab'd up some adjustable legs. Screw down the legs, set it level were ever ya want, screw the legs up and roll it into the corner when your done with it.
 
#152 ·
It's been on my list of things to do.

I decided I wanted it clocked a little lower, so I rotated it down a few degrees from where the picture shows. I had to drill a new pattern in the np205. It moved the shifter from midway between the 2 bolts to closer to the lower bolt. Any more and I'd have to clock quite a bit to get to the other side of the bolt. It went from the front output being a few degrees higher than the input to a few lower.

The lower corner is still above the bottom of the trans pan, so it won't hang too low. I think it's a good compromise to manage the size of the 205.
 
#159 · (Edited)
Hanging out in the shop today and dodging my inlaws. I installed a Champ oil pan. It's 5.5" deep or about 3" less than a truck pan. It has internal baffles to help maintain oil pressure on climbs, is metal, and has integrated oil filter mount.

I ran one on the last car and it held pressure well and wasn't leaky. From what I understand it's built by same company as the Pac fab pan, but no built in skid plates. It was also cheaper and I'll be running a belly skid.

I also picked up a set of Mastercraft chicom seats after sitting in Al's at the Mounds. We will see how they hold up, but I'm not too worried since this will just be a trail beater.


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