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Old November 12th, 2019, 08:17 AM   #1
wave_crusher
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Default No 4x4

Still working on different things on my truck. This issue has been around a while, but since I rarley drive it other than to Home Depot, it's been on the side burner.

96 K1500, Auto, floor shift T case. The 4x4 actuator is not the stock thermal one, I repalced it a few years ago with an electric one, and added in the extra wire harness that the electric actuator needs.

The 4x4 does not engage when put into 4, the T case engages ( in two the front drive shaft spins freely, in 4 it is locked in gear). I replaced the actuator thinking that was the culprit, though I did not have a blown fuse. Then went looking for a broken wire and found a few spots that were bad but not broken. Replaced the Transfer Case Switch yesterday and still no 4x4. No fuse blown either.

I'm not sure where to even keep looking at, tempted to just wire the actuator to a toggle switch.

This just popped into my head, does the 4x4 indicator light on the floor shifter have anything to do with it? As in does it need to be good to continue power or something like that?

EDIT: Also forgot to mention, that after changing the actuator, I actually tested to see if power was being sent to it. It was not, only about 2 or 3V was coming into the actuator with the truck in 4, that is what lead me to think it was the t case switch. I found a corroded connector on there from when I originally added in the electric actuator, replaced it all with good solder connectors. I did not check for power after that, but everything from that point to the actuator should be fine (barring bad "new" parts).
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Old November 13th, 2019, 06:56 AM   #2
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How difficult is it to go back to "the old way"? Meaning, the stock thermal one.
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Old November 13th, 2019, 08:31 AM   #3
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Dont they make a cable operated kit just for this reason? I remember it used to take forever for my '91 Sonoma front end to engage so i made a cable actuator with a locking pull cable/choke cable thingy.
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Old November 13th, 2019, 10:07 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greygoose View Post
How difficult is it to go back to "the old way"? Meaning, the stock thermal one.
Pretty simple, just buy the thermal actuator, remove the little harness that came with the kit for the new electric one. Though that may work, but it's going backwords...but i guess if it gets me working 4x4

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Originally Posted by BigBlockBlazer View Post
Dont they make a cable operated kit just for this reason? I remember it used to take forever for my '91 Sonoma front end to engage so i made a cable actuator with a locking pull cable/choke cable thingy.
I remember seeing those for about $100 a while ago. I wanted to keep the system working like it was meant to, but maybe that's what i'll have to do.

Seems like all I do is chase electrical gremlins on this thing

EDIT: Found it. $159, they're not giving them away. https://www.lmctruck.com/1988-98-che...cable-lock-kit
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Old November 13th, 2019, 11:50 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wave_crusher View Post
Pretty simple, just buy the thermal actuator, remove the little harness that came with the kit for the new electric one. Though that may work, but it's going backwords...but i guess if it gets me working 4x4



I remember seeing those for about $100 a while ago. I wanted to keep the system working like it was meant to, but maybe that's what i'll have to do.

Seems like all I do is chase electrical gremlins on this thing

EDIT: Found it. $159, they're not giving them away. https://www.lmctruck.com/1988-98-che...cable-lock-kit
Yah but that way you know its engaged.
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Old November 14th, 2019, 08:43 PM   #6
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Just do the slip over and lock the front axle in. yes your drive shaft will turn all the time . your transfer would allow it to rotate freely. But you will not have to worry about it be locked in or not.
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Old November 15th, 2019, 07:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wave_crusher View Post
Pretty simple, just buy the thermal actuator, remove the little harness that came with the kit for the new electric one. Though that may work, but it's going backwords...but i guess if it gets me working 4x4



I remember seeing those for about $100 a while ago. I wanted to keep the system working like it was meant to, but maybe that's what i'll have to do.

Seems like all I do is chase electrical gremlins on this thing

EDIT: Found it. $159, they're not giving them away. https://www.lmctruck.com/1988-98-che...cable-lock-kit
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Yah but that way you know its engaged.
I agree
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Old December 4th, 2019, 08:20 AM   #8
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So, I have yet to address this problem any further, but the last storm and almost getting stuck in my driveway made me want to.

Had a thought last night, does the 4x4 bulb in the floor panel have to be working in order for the power to be sent to the t case switch? As in if the bulb is burned out, the 4x4 wont work?
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Old December 4th, 2019, 08:25 AM   #9
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I've heard of situations where things like that have been true, but I cant recall if it applies to your truck. Otoh, at least a bulb would be a cheap part to throw at it.
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Old December 4th, 2019, 02:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wave_crusher View Post
So, I have yet to address this problem any further, but the last storm and almost getting stuck in my driveway made me want to.

Had a thought last night, does the 4x4 bulb in the floor panel have to be working in order for the power to be sent to the t case switch? As in if the bulb is burned out, the 4x4 wont work?
Id check to see if the bulb is getting power. If its not then its likely not getting a signal that its in 4x4 which would also mean its not getting a signal to engage the front axle. Worn out internals in the case maybe.
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Old December 4th, 2019, 06:03 PM   #11
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I put one of the posilock cables on my old 2nd gen dodge. Best thing ever. No guessing if 4wd will work and you also get 2 low.
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