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Johnny's GoatBuilt JHF buggy build

179K views 986 replies 64 participants last post by  xj4life 
#1 · (Edited)
At post 110 I changed my mind and decided I would build a buggy instead of the Wag. The Wag continues to wait for it's next build.

At post 187 I ordered up a GoatBuilt JHF chassis to hopefully speed this up. (edit: nope)

Current Build plan:
GoatBuilt JHF Chassis, 108" wheelbase, "jeep" hood and grille
2007 Ford F250 Dana 60, 5.38, Sparty locker, JHF high-steer
- narrowed 4" to use 78 F250 axleshaft on the long side, using factory 1550 shafts
1998 Chevy K3500 14-bolt, shaved, 5.38, Detroit, 1/2t chevy disc brakes
39" BFG Krawler Red labels on KMC Machete Beadlocks
2001 GMC Yukon XL 6.0L LQ4
  • Holley TerminatorX EFI
  • Champ oil pan (high-ish clearance, baffled, steel)
  • Dorman LS2 car intake and Warr cable throttle body
  • Holley fuel rails with late-model 6.0 truck injectors (EV6, E85 flow rates, 12613412)
  • Goatbuilt accessory brackets, TC pump on driver's side, alt on passenger
  • GM 706 heads
  • BTR Truck Norris cam
TH400 built by Tranny Tom, Reverse Manual with Winters/WOD shifter
Atlas transfer case, 3.0 low range
Fox 2.5 air shocks
PSC Full Hydro, 2.5x10" ram, TC-pump
Mastercraft cheap seats with Impact 5-point harnesses
Griffin 31x19 radiator, Derale 16927 shroud and twin fans
Goatbuilt fuel tank and factory fuel pump
Magnaflow muffler mpe-12649



==================

I bought my Wagoneer in 1997. It was my first 4x4 and I bought it so that me and my friends could go camping and have room for our gear since we all drove econoboxes. That fall I ended up moving to Germany for 18 months and it went into storage.

When I got back I rebuilt the AMC 360 with the help of a friend, and we did enough maintenance on the rest to get it on the road. Over the next few years it got a 4" lift and went from 31s and then 35s when I put a 3" body lift. We did some wheeling with it and eventually I put it on 33 Stampers from my old Wrangler.

In around 2005 it was parked due to lack of time and using any spare time on my Wrangler. A few years later we stole the drive train for the TREC Wagoneer, and it has sat since.

Over the summer I got out of racing, bought a RZR and drug this back in the shop. I'm thinking I want to get it back on the road and trails.









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#53 ·
Auto part Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Car
Auto part Automotive engine part Carburetor
Auto part Engine


Lots of cleaning. Trying to figure out if I want to mess with intake runners on the heads.

Found that GM upper engine cleaner on a toothbrush really helped break up carbon deposits, better than carb cleaner. Used a gasket scraper to break through the big clumps. Not factory new, but a whole lot better.

Knock sensors and harness here on Tuesday.

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#54 ·
Knock sensor code gone. Still misfires on 2 5 6 8. Noticed I could go down road at < 2000 rpm and barely get misfire counts. Have fuel pressure gauge where I can see while driving, but it's too dark to see. I'll have to check when I get home tomorrow.

If fuel pressure is good I'm cutting out the cats or maybe pulling pass side injectors and rigging up a cleaner.

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#68 ·
Gets worse above 2000rpm, minimal counts below. Rarely see a count at idle. I'm usally tipped into the throttle and shifted into 2 or 3 to get it happen on my test route.

I think I can homebrew an injector cleaning setup and will see if I can get the even bank cleaned and working better. I have to take apart more crap to get to the odd bank; so I will test on the less work side.
 
#76 ·
Gets worse above 2000rpm, minimal counts below. Rarely see a count at idle. I'm usally tipped into the throttle and shifted into 2 or 3 to get it happen on my test route.
you sure its not torque converter related? Does it ever happen when the TC is 100% unlocked and slipping (brake torqueing, 1st gear WOT launch, etc)?
 
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