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Old September 13th, 2015, 08:33 PM   #181
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I'm running chromos in my waggy front currently, but more than likely I'm going to run RCV's in the new one.
yes very good choice u have seen what the rcvs in my 44 have held up too
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Old September 13th, 2015, 09:18 PM   #182
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yes very good choice u have seen what the rcvs in my 44 have held up too

Yes I have... Have to figure out how to get flat top knuckles for high steer, from what I've read, the Chevy knuckles are a little tough to install rcv's into.

Also was going to ask you about RCV's warranty on the d44 shafts. It says on their website up to 40" tires, but I'm wondering if that's based off of labelled size, actual measured size, up to and including 40's? Or under 40"? I guess I should call, lol. Not that I'm going to 4d's anytime soon :)
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Old September 13th, 2015, 09:19 PM   #183
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Yea I have no idea how they do that or even prove what size tire u broke them with

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Old September 13th, 2015, 10:23 PM   #184
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Good point
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Old September 20th, 2015, 08:06 PM   #185
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club comp vids

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/wak...kqw3m.mp4.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/wak...mx4bd.mp4.html
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Old October 22nd, 2015, 07:31 PM   #186
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Some bling arrived today...going for baller status next

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Old October 22nd, 2015, 08:29 PM   #187
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Some bling arrived today...going for baller status next

Sweet!!

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Old November 30th, 2015, 06:08 PM   #188
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Go big or go home they say..
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Old January 2nd, 2016, 11:13 PM   #189
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Well winter has hit, and I'm updating this as motivation to avoid Project Car Hell. Due to the effects of Michigan winters on my TJ frame, its time for some changes. I picked up a relatively clean tub this summer after giving up the fight against rust on the underside of my current body. The idea was to buy a rust free frame from down south and then swap everything over. Then things snowballed, as jeep builds tend to do. I picked up a full width ford 9" and a high pinion d44. I then found a smoking deal on a set of sway away air shocks. The final straw was crawling under my jeep and finding cracks around my rear control arm mount on passenger side, and failing weld on the driver's side upper. I had come to the conclusion through much research, that the next logical step is to back half my frame. After more reading, I found that typically this leads to front frame mods as well, in order to keep the COG low and maintain decent up travel. I came to the conclusion that I will be better off to build a frame from scratch than to buy one and modify it. My current frame is in such a condition that I doubt it is worth cutting up to modify, as I'm sure the wall thickness is significantly compromised through the center section as well.

That said, here are my goals and the reasoning behind it. Its been asked of me "why not just build a buggy?" First, because I have a young family and want to take them wheeling with me, I'm fairly certain my wife would be far less interested if it were in an open buggy. Second, I am afraid I lack the skill and attention to detail that it requires to fully build out a buggy, and I certainly don't have the money to have one built for me.

My goal is to have a jeep that has relatively LCG, is somewhat street friendly, and very stable climbing and crawling. At this point I will sacrifice high speed handling (offload) for the sake of cost. If I can eventually upgrade to coilovers, I might. I do like to race, especially the last course we ran at Rocks and Valleys, so I do have those types of courses in mind. I'm hoping to hit all four of the Ricky Bobby races this summer, so thats my deadline. The jeep in its current state will stay together unless the axles sell. All that said, here are the build specs:

Stock TJ drivetrain, 4.0 Ax-15 NP231

37" MTR tires, possibly going to 39" bfg's eventually

Front Axle:
Ford HP D44, RCV's, grizzly locker, 5.13's

Rear: Ford 9", chromo shafts, Grizzly or spool, disc brakes, Ruff stuff back truss, not sure on a top truss yet, 5.13

Suspension:

3 link front w/panhard, triangulated 4 link rear (debating single or double tri currently) I do plan to keep my currie anti-rock

Wheelbase in the 104" range.

12" Sway away racerunner 2.0 shocks, goal is 4-5" of up travel, 18-20" belly

Custom built frame, boat side the tub, roll cage, high line front fenders.

That sums the basics up I believe. I'm open to suggestions, I will be posting a lot of questions I'm sure, I'm debating starting threads in the different tech sections on the various areas I have questions, such as link material, 3 and 4 link calculations, frame materials, etc. I have a good welder, borrowing a fab table and plasma, and hoping to get a lot of help from the great lakes community. Some of you I know, a lot of you I respect after reading your build threads. To say the least, this project intimidates me and will test my skills, but I'm looking forward to it.

All that said... @Kyle M. @big86inthestixx @JohnnyJ @Toyfish @95geo @whiterhino @Tab @firehawk @NightKrawler @Mr. Beefy

some of you guys I've met, and some of you I only know by rep, but yours and others' input is welcome.

Last edited by wakeboard76; January 2nd, 2016 at 11:17 PM.
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Old January 2nd, 2016, 11:20 PM   #190
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4-5 of up travel is very doable with a stock front frame section, but u will need to back half it to fit the shocks between the frame and tires. my rear is sigle tirangulated and has been problem free for over a year. I can measure my belly height tomorrow to see what im sitting at.
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Old January 2nd, 2016, 11:24 PM   #191
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4-5 of up travel is very doable with a stock front frame section, but u will need to back half it to fit the shocks between the frame and tires. my rear is sigle tirangulated and has been problem free for over a year. I can measure my belly height tomorrow to see what im sitting at.

Curious how long your links are, that's another thing I'm debating, the typical 36-40" long arm? Or something like a 30" mid arm?


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Old January 2nd, 2016, 11:29 PM   #192
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Default Basic TJ DD Build

Here's the current frame plan subject to change: I'm running a body lift to enable my tummy tuck, so the new center section will have raised body supports, probably 1.25-1.5", should allow me to keep a flat skid. The front and rear sections will then be raised the same amount higher than stock. This, combined with using 3x2 tubing front and rear should gain me a couple inches of room for up travel. I'm planning on using 4x2x3/16" in the center, and I think I can get away with 3x2x1/8 front and rear. I did find a guy on Hardline Crawlers selling a kit similar to what I have in mind for $1500



wish I had the skills to draw that up :)
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 05:08 AM   #193
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Sounds like you have a pretty good plan. There's not much advice to give at this stage, you're already well on your way.
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 07:41 AM   #194
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Sounds like a good plan to me. We run 2x3x0.120 as our front and rear frame sections with no issues. And I think running 2x4x0.188 through the lower section is a good call.

We put a lot of effort into building a strong steering box mount, and that has been trouble free, even with breaking 3 or 4 sector shafts off from clipping trees at speed. I can't recall if it's 3/16 or 1/4 plate on either side of the frame. We used 3/4 OD x 0.120 wall for the through frame sleeves. We capped off the plates front and rear later in the build.

I once read Jesse Haines talk about lower links, and he felt anything over 36" long was not needed. From what I recall of his statements, he felt the differences in geometry changes beyond 36" was not worth the larger probability of bending links, or the weight to build them so they don't bend. We went with that theory on our jeep and have had no issues.
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Old January 3rd, 2016, 02:07 PM   #195
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My belly height is 18" to the skid and 16" to the control arm mounts.
Front lower links 39.5" rears are 38"

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Old January 3rd, 2016, 02:35 PM   #196
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My belly height is 18" to the skid and 16" to the control arm mounts.
Front lower links 39.5" rears are 38"

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Thanks for the numbers...I will definitely be running shorter links, how much are you stretched front and rear?


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Old January 3rd, 2016, 02:35 PM   #197
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Sounds like you have a pretty good plan. There's not much advice to give at this stage, you're already well on your way.
X2

You've got a good handle on it so far!

The only input I can give you at this point would be to mock things up as best you can and don't be afraid to cut it apart and redo it until everything is accounted for and you don't package yourself into a corner at any point.

Keep in mind those air shocks are pretty short compared to an equivalent fox or SAW coilover. They will be easy to package, but will make future options difficult to swap in.

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Old January 3rd, 2016, 02:37 PM   #198
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Thanks for the numbers...I will definitely be running shorter links, how much are you stretched front and rear?


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I'm at 100" wheelbase its stretched around 4-5 in the rear and 1-2 in the front.

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Old January 3rd, 2016, 02:39 PM   #199
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Thanks for the input so far guys, I did originally intend to find some 14-16" air shocks, but they would have cost more than double what I paid for these, I will build with a bigger shock/coil over package in the back of my mind.


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Old January 3rd, 2016, 02:58 PM   #200
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Yea what those guys said, I will follow along as you build and help if I can.

And in the mockup stages don't fully weld anything until you are sure its where you want it and it fits when flexing it out.
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