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Old March 27th, 2017, 09:48 AM   #1
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Default Super Duty Rear Disk Brake Failure

Is there a good upgrade to the rear braking system for my F350 Superduty 7.3?
My rear calipers keep locking up. I have gone through 4 sets of rotors and calipers (3 different manufacturers, but all stock replacement) I also have replaced a lot of the brake line and flushed the system multiple times. It seems to be worse the more I am doing city driving and on the brakes a lot.


Now that I have the tuner, the motor doesn't even slow down when a rear caliper sticks so I get lots of pretty smoke and stinky pad smell. I need a solution.
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Old March 27th, 2017, 12:09 PM   #2
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Have you replaced the soft lines too, I replaced mine 2 years ago with ones from advance auto and already had to replace one of em, might wanna look at power stop brand? Or pricey ford brand


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Old March 27th, 2017, 12:14 PM   #3
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I have not replaced any of the soft lines. Do they deteriorate? I don't have any leaks.
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Old March 27th, 2017, 12:46 PM   #4
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do the slide pins also fail/stick?
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Old March 27th, 2017, 01:03 PM   #5
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Typically for us it's the pistons that seize up, it's been a problem we have had with all the reman calipers on those trucks esp. the rear. I have put several sets on my truck over the years and last July gave u on the remans and bought a new OE Motorcraft caliper.....so far so good but it has only been about 6 months.
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Old March 27th, 2017, 01:09 PM   #6
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Anymore when I change calipers I do the soft lines too, and I'd go get a oe caliper, when mine stick again that's what I'm doing


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Old March 27th, 2017, 01:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FORD FLARESIDE View Post
I have not replaced any of the soft lines. Do they deteriorate? I don't have any leaks.
They can go bad and hold pressure like a check valve but that is easy to check out. Loosen the bleeder and allow any pressure to bleed off, If the caliper still won't move with the bleeder open the caliper is bad.
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Old March 27th, 2017, 02:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
do the slide pins also fail/stick?
No, that's the part that really makes no sense.
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Old March 27th, 2017, 02:11 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by frdboy View Post
They can go bad and hold pressure like a check valve but that is easy to check out. Loosen the bleeder and allow any pressure to bleed off, If the caliper still won't move with the bleeder open the caliper is bad.
Will do. I think I will try OEM too
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Old March 28th, 2017, 11:37 AM   #10
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So, I've done more research then I plan to comment on, and I still don't have a good solution.


These are the comments I've seen from several superduty owners:
  • The brakes stick and warp rotors at all mileage (mostly after 30k)
  • clean the pins
  • clean the hole in the caliper for the pins
  • Replace pins
  • bleed the calipers
  • Replace calipers
  • non OEM replacement calipers will fail because of the composite piston vs steel in the OEM
  • replace soft lines (but only with OEM)
  • Replace soft lines with Kevlar lines
  • replace soft lines with braided lines
  • flush the master cylinder
  • bleed the master
  • replace master cylinder
  • replace entire brake system
  • Power stop rotors will fix everything
  • Hawk brake pads will fix everything
  • Wilwood brakes will fix everything
  • NAPA ceramic pads and Calipers will fix everything
  • Blah, Blah, Blah.........
At this point; I'm going to make an uneducated guess and say that it is probably a combination of contaminants in the line, aged soft lines, and reman Calipers that were probably honed so that the original tolerance between piston ring and cylinder is out. (which I suspect is why some of the OEM calipers still work okay because they haven't been honed)


Anyway, this is a problem and from what I read it is happening to most of the older superduty's (99-2003)
If the reman's are not being properly assembled, something should be done about it. (I'm just waiting for that fire, or accident)




I think, what I am going to do after I consult with Frdboy, is
  • flush the system again
  • new soft lines
  • new slotted/drilled rotors all the way around
  • ceramic pads
  • Calipers in the rear (Ford OEM or better)
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Old March 28th, 2017, 12:02 PM   #11
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When I bought my super duty, the day I test drove it the rear calipers were hanging up. The lot replaced them prior to purchase.

I put about 35k on that truck, then I got worried about needing to put calipers on it so I traded in for a Cummins.


Cummins had good brakes at purchase, I've put 30 K since purchase. Still have not done the brakes. And they are probably 70% worn. And I got them real hot West of Denver towing to.


Cliff notes, you should buy a Cummins.
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Old March 28th, 2017, 12:11 PM   #12
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Yeah, that's not going to be an option for a long while. I have too much money invested in the SD.
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Old March 28th, 2017, 01:39 PM   #13
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Hey John, I had issues with my Dodge front calipers and replaced 2 of them before I replaced the soft line. Needless to say I didn't have any issues after the line was replaced. Good luck...
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Old March 28th, 2017, 02:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Hey John, I had issues with my Dodge front calipers and replaced 2 of them before I replaced the soft line. Needless to say I didn't have any issues after the line was replaced. Good luck...
Awesome, Thank You.
I think new braided stainless lines will be first on my order list.
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Old March 28th, 2017, 02:39 PM   #15
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I hope u get it figured out..
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Old March 28th, 2017, 09:55 PM   #16
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Well, you could have a issue with the Brake load sensing proportioning valve or the Brake pressure control valve(in the master cylinder) applying the incorrect amount (due to a worn seal) to the calipers.

Easy way to tell is to tell if the thing is applying constant pressure is to use a break pressure gauge and check all 4 corners.


If you have higher pressure at one corner or axle(with the line off the caliper and truck running) then you have a issue at the proportioning valve or master cylinder or maybe lines(but I doubt lines).

If you have steady pressure up to the caliper then you have ruled out everything up to the caliper.

You are going to want to have a helper apply the breaks a few times while you write down the readings. If you do not have a helper a camera on the gauge will let you go back and look at it frame by frame.

It is a afternoon job. But, it does eliminate the guesswork and headaches.
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Old March 29th, 2017, 09:22 AM   #17
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To be honest, I have never done a pressure reading on a brake system before. I guess its time to notify mama that I need to buy a new tool.


Let's say if I do find higher pressure at one of the calipers, then because of my lack of experience I would probably be better off just changing out the master cylinder and/or pressure control valve.
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Old March 29th, 2017, 10:23 AM   #18
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If you have more pressure at one corner vs another at the same axle it's not a master cylinder issue. Master cylinder supplies frt as one and rear as one. And imbalance between two on the same would be something past the master in the system.

Assuming your master cylinder only has two ports.
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Old March 30th, 2017, 10:23 AM   #19
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I have had 5 calipers fail over 6-7 years in 99-04 super duty's. 4 were seized pistons and in one rear caliper the piston blew up. From what I looked up before the seizing pistons are common
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Old March 30th, 2017, 12:12 PM   #20
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Simple swap in a AAM 10.5 or 11.5 and never worry about it.

Gm and dodge are using them and seem to have excellent luck.
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