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Old January 30th, 2017, 04:26 AM   #61
siettas81
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haven't done much in the last two weeks, but this past weekend welded on the axle truss, lifted truck up higher and set axle under truck on jackastand and placed it into position, time to build a new transmission crossmeber and start mocking up the double triangulated 4 link bars !!!



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Old January 30th, 2017, 06:55 PM   #62
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Is that full droop?
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Old January 31st, 2017, 04:35 AM   #63
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not sure yet that is just the truck sitting on stand as high as it will go in my garage and the axle setting under the truck on two small jack stands squared up to the rear axle. baby steps lol still trying to figure out best way to run the 4 4-link bars triangulated so i don't have to run a dam trac pan-hard bar . going to be tricky with oil pan, front drive shaft and everything else. don't seem like many people do it haven't found many pictures of builds like this
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Old January 31st, 2017, 10:14 AM   #64
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It's common for front 4-links to spread the triangulation between top and bottom. Rule of thumb I've heard and live by is that 45* of separation between the two is the important part.

For a friend's truggy we put what we could for triangulated uppers to work around the accessory drive. They probably were spread out maybe 18" on the axle, and as wide as possible on the chassis to give what we could for lateral control. Then we setup the lowers with triangulation wide on the axle and under the sub-frame built.

I've seen the same basic setup on many ultra4 cars that aim to be low and have the engine in the way.

I've also setup a rig with the BTF bat wing on the lower frame side, with uppers not triangulated. Also worked. This variant is called a Satchel.
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Old January 31st, 2017, 10:58 AM   #65
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i was thinking about running lower bars from out side axle to center of the truck / build into a transmission crossmeber, and the top bars from middle area of axle to inside of frame rail but i think it is going to be tough clearing front drive shaft, motor/trans should be interesting

kinda like this but front axle lol,

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Old January 31st, 2017, 02:35 PM   #66
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I ran a single triangulated 4 link on my ranger project. never actually drove the truck. just test flexes and it worked really well in the tests. Put uppers straight to outside of frame and used the ballistic fab lower mount. Maybe you should just do a single instead of double triangulated. Both would get you away from a panhard bar but the single would be easier to package.
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Old January 31st, 2017, 02:52 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siettas81 View Post
i was thinking about running lower bars from out side axle to center of the truck / build into a transmission crossmeber, and the top bars from middle area of axle to inside of frame rail but i think it is going to be tough clearing front drive shaft, motor/trans should be interesting

kinda like this but front axle lol,

Yep, your picture is the idea. Definitely is fun working on the package. High Pinion 60 gives a bit more room to package, but the truggy I worked with a friend on had a LP60 and we made it work. Don't have any good pics, sorry.

With the LP60, we didn't pinch the lowers as much.
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Old January 31st, 2017, 05:52 PM   #68
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Knowing what you're going through right now. I tried to fit a 4 link too, but trust me when i say this, the Panhard is much easier to make fit than the upper link on the d side. To stay low, your exhaust is the biggest issue for the upper link. A set of headers upside down and on opposite sides would fix that issue, plus give you reason to run a turbo!
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Old January 31st, 2017, 06:16 PM   #69
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Try fitting a 4 link on a tj frame with a LS and 4L60. That had to get real creative lol.
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Old January 31st, 2017, 07:40 PM   #70
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Yep going to pick up some black pipe or fence pipe or something so I can star mocking up shit this weekend I am thinking also might have to clock t case down to 3rd notch on clocking ring.
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Old January 31st, 2017, 08:01 PM   #71
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Used pvc pipe. Two different sizes so they could slide in/out.

Until I was able to borrow some builder links.
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Old February 1st, 2017, 04:25 AM   #72
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im not going to use pvc pipe i dont think it will hold up to cycling that heavy ass axle up and down lol
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Old February 1st, 2017, 05:53 AM   #73
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Just use 1 1/2 schd 40 for the links and 1" schd 40 for anything else.
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Old February 1st, 2017, 06:54 AM   #74
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Quote:
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Just use 1 1/2 schd 40 for the links and 1" schd 40 for anything else.
yeah that's the plan, so i don't waste my 2inch .250 wall DOM
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Old February 1st, 2017, 07:23 AM   #75
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The sizes i mentioned will be close enough to matching so you can watch clearances everywhere. I just tacked the threaded inserts into the pipe and ground them out when i knew what my lengths needed to be. Although i couldn't have done that great of a job, I've made 4 new links so far lol. They ended up too short the first go round...i unfortunately did not know the difference between positive and negative castor....
I think you can get the pipe at home depot, or a good plumbing supply store will likely be cheaper. If you know someone with an account there, it should only be about $1.50 per foot.
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Old February 1st, 2017, 07:33 AM   #76
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Quote:
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im not going to use pvc pipe i dont think it will hold up to cycling that heavy ass axle up and down lol
I used it in place of my Struts.
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Old February 1st, 2017, 09:11 AM   #77
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Quote:
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I used it in place of my Struts.
As shocks? Why, to check travel? Not a bad idea to get some solid numbers in place.
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Old February 1st, 2017, 09:33 AM   #78
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Yeah I still need to take some measurements of truck with axle under it and try to figure out that 4 link calculator
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Old February 1st, 2017, 09:46 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sterlingfire View Post
As shocks? Why, to check travel? Not a bad idea to get some solid numbers in place.


Drilled two holes, then marked on the pvc the travel my Struts had. That way when cycling, grinding, tack wedding etc my Struts weren't in harms way.

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Old February 1st, 2017, 09:51 AM   #80
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Quote:
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Drilled two holes, then marked on the pvc the travel my Struts had. That way when cycling, grinding, tack wedding etc my Struts weren't in harms way.

I was planning to make fake struts with telespar so I could use it for a roller so I didn't have to buy shocks for a while.
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