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Old March 18th, 2019, 01:06 PM   #1
green50gt
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Default Newbie to SD60/TJ questions

Hi.

First time caller, long time listener.

With what appears to be a promotion on the horizon, I hope that buying and selling Jeeps might finally be over! (please don't quote me on that)

Nevertheless, I am really wanting to build a low slung LJ, 37-40" tires, and axles capable of handling them.

I have finally found an establishment with plenty of 05+ SD60's for sub $500 bucks, so I have inked a deal on one. I also, maybe for a rainy day, also inked a deal on a complete 03 5.3 truck motor, but lets not get too far off topic.

For packaging, I believe that the 05+ SD60 needs about 4" cut off the pass side, or at least I feel like that is what I read maybe in John's build, or Terry's, to get the pig to fall between the frame rail and the engine? Can anyone confirm?

Next, is there a rear axle that would match that width that doesn't need chopped down? Same establishment that has the fronts also has disk brake 10.5 rears, but truthfully I know even less about those, or if there is aftermarket to support them.

The Roxor build on the site, there is mention of what I think is an affordable rear axle kit from Trailgear(Fabricated 9") - I see they have several different widths available. I am thinking that would be maximum ground clearance over say 14 bolt. Does one just run drive slugs at that point? I think with this rear axle choice I could run 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern, and I think the front hubs on a SD60 can go down to a 5.5.

Sorry for the lengthy post, worst case I get bashed, best case I get a bunch of good info. Somebody who will ask, what am I gonna do with the Jeep? Well I don't get to wheel very much anymore since the kids are little, but we do go up to Silver lake a few times a year, otherwise, use it to go get ice cream. Do I need that size tires and/or axles to do those things, absolutely not. It's just what I want.

Discuss. For eye candy, check this out... Id be up for a single white female version of this, but WAAYYYY less hardcore - maybe you know the guy:
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Old March 18th, 2019, 01:23 PM   #2
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05+ hubs can not be turned down to 5x5.5 from the information I have seen

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Old March 18th, 2019, 01:41 PM   #3
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I will also add that if your not completely set on the 05+ superduty axle the 99-04 stuff seems to be fitting the bill of what your looking for a little better. The front axle is already 2-3" narrower, the hubs can be turned down to 5x5.5 and the 10.25 sterling rear axle is a great match. Plus they are generally cheaper than the 05+ stuff. (I paid $200 for my 04 axle complete) The only downside is stock TJ suspension components are pretty much out of the question with the front axle as the stock track bar mount basically touches the pumpkin.

I helped my brother mock up his 99-04 axle in the front of his TJ. Current plan is a 3 link with what looks to be about 4" of up travel and around a 21" frame height. This is still all in the mockup stage though



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Old March 18th, 2019, 02:36 PM   #4
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I remove 4"s from the pass side and use a chevy 60 inner shaft. Puts wms close to 67-68 which is what old 60s were.

The older super duty sterlings are a good wms comparison to the 68" front. Newer ones I believe are wider to match the 72" of the oem 05+ frt axle.

I used a chevy 14b in mine stock width. Guy on pirate makes a jig for like $20 to diy lug conversion to std on the frt axle to match the 8x6.5 of the 14b.

The 05+ bearings are stout. Hands down better then the older bearings for sure. The center is wider then old style, so wheels with a smaller center bore like Chevy etc won't fit. I've been turning the center of the bearing down to accommodate the smaller center bore wheels with my drum lathe at work.

I believe artec makes a kit now to put a 05+ in a tj/lj.

I know @frdtrckmnrich has done a couple now, maybe he'll chime in.




Thanks for the kind words on mine, everytime I see that pic I think I'm waiting on line to start a race lol.
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Old March 18th, 2019, 02:40 PM   #5
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https://www.artecindustries.com/TJ_SDF_1_Ton_Swap
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Old March 18th, 2019, 02:46 PM   #6
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What's the deal with the 1550 shafts. Those are 05+ only as well right? Send the one side to Branik for shorten and re-spline?

I think @CheapThrillB2 broke 1 stock lockout at this point so I wouldn't really worry about drive slugs.
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Old March 18th, 2019, 02:49 PM   #7
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Yeah, you can get the Spicer 17+ oem super duty shafts with 1550 joints cheap. They drop right into the 05-16 axles w/o mods. Obviously if you shorten the axle the shaft will need shortening. My dd needed new hub seals and joint (12 f250). I actaully bought the 1550 shafts instead. They come with the hub seal pre-installed and were like $175 each fully assembled with seal and a Spicer joint from Dennys driveshaft.
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Old March 18th, 2019, 02:52 PM   #8
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I've broke two oem 100k+ old lockouts so far. 4ds and a LS. Wheeling Rausch creek, Canada multiple times, moab multiple times, sand hollow, and Michigan parks. I think the oem lockouts are decently stout. Some are vacumn operated as well as manual. Some are just manual. I've been meaning to install a vacumn pump to try and get them to work. It'd be nice with the not hard core trips that involve going to from trails to not get out and turn them.
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Old March 18th, 2019, 02:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanw10 View Post
I will also add that if your not completely set on the 05+ superduty axle the 99-04 stuff seems to be fitting the bill of what your looking for a little better. The front axle is already 2-3" narrower, the hubs can be turned down to 5x5.5 and the 10.25 sterling rear axle is a great match. Plus they are generally cheaper than the 05+ stuff. (I paid $200 for my 04 axle complete) The only downside is stock TJ suspension components are pretty much out of the question with the front axle as the stock track bar mount basically touches the pumpkin.

I helped my brother mock up his 99-04 axle in the front of his TJ. Current plan is a 3 link with what looks to be about 4" of up travel and around a 21" frame height. This is still all in the mockup stage though



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I don't think I've paid over $300 for a axle yet. Whenever I've needed a new bearing, shaft or lockout, I've just been buying complete axles. Taking what I need and parting out the rest. I typically end up money ahead. Last two I bought were both less then $200 ea. Granted they don't come with brakes and those add up quick.
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Old March 18th, 2019, 03:05 PM   #10
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Thanks guys!

Sorry for the questions!

Ok a few things. Ryan. Yeah I heard that too and I was hoping to run stockish suspension out of the deal.

John. So I have been busy going back through your build to see what I can learn. I saw what I believed to be 3 different front housings before you actually put it under your Jeep. Did you have problems with them? I also saw that you got good hubs - what I think I understood there is that the new hubs must be stupid expensive?

For whatever reason my @mentions aren't working. But I believe I spoke to Rich about this time last year by suggestion of Terry, discussing this very thing. I think we talked for close to an hour on the phone, and with whatever I had going on at the time we kinda talked myself out of it. (which all worked out)

Brandon. Whilst speaking of drive slugs, I am speaking of the scenario of the aftermarket rear axle. Truthfully I don't understand it, but that feller building the roxor thingy used super duty pockets and bearings if I am not mistaken. I don't 100% understand how that works, but I assume the axle shaft is splined on both ends and one would need to either run a lock out, or a drive slug? Going a little bit further, if I wanted to run a 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern, am I overthinking it - meaning, should I just run say a truck 9" rear axle? Wouldn't be full float, but I think that's what Jim Burgundy runs and does quite well.

John part two, I will look into this 1550 stuff you speak of, but I doubt I need anything that hardcore. Thanks for the link on the artec swap kit. I've got all their bracketry on my current front Rubi44 and its pretty nice, and well thought out.

I should just buy Terry's pile of parts and finish it for him.
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Old March 18th, 2019, 03:05 PM   #11
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LJ's are the rage. Look forward to seeing what you do.

Oh, and as far as the eye candy above..... well....... I like red licorice.

I already made Terry an offer. He refused.
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Old March 18th, 2019, 03:14 PM   #12
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I only had the d30 and the now current sd60 in my jeep. My buggy went through a couple axles though. And ended up with a 05+. New bearings are pricey if you want Timken etc. You can find off brands pretty cheap now.

I know rich built a rear axle using unit bearing cups for the 05+ bearing. Bolts onto the rear then. Double ended splined shafts with drive slugs. I don't remember who makes the weld on bearing cups maybe trail gear.

Terry didn't intend on a sd60. He was gonna install an older axle.
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Old March 18th, 2019, 03:33 PM   #13
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How can i help?

John has already pretty much summed everything up, But i would be happy to help.

You can call me if you'd like.

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Old March 19th, 2019, 01:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
LJ's are the rage. Look forward to seeing what you do.

Oh, and as far as the eye candy above..... well....... I like red licorice.

I already made Terry an offer. He refused.
Thanks Jim! You are running a Ford Truck 9"(modified) are you not? and you're running Krawlers/Iroks and it holds up. Are you setup as Semi and presumably 35 spline?

He offered it to me around this time ago last year.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2 View Post
I only had the d30 and the now current sd60 in my jeep. My buggy went through a couple axles though. And ended up with a 05+. New bearings are pricey if you want Timken etc. You can find off brands pretty cheap now.

I know rich built a rear axle using unit bearing cups for the 05+ bearing. Bolts onto the rear then. Double ended splined shafts with drive slugs. I don't remember who makes the weld on bearing cups maybe trail gear.

Terry didn't intend on a sd60. He was gonna install an older axle.
Fair enough, so looks like it would be best to find a low mileage, complete axle for good stock lockouts and hopefully good bearings.

In regards to the rear I wonder if I am just getting fancy. If Jim confirms my suspicions, a well built 9 should handle 37-40's with some skinny pedal.

Really here is where I am going with this. I am working on having a midlife crisis, I doubt the wife is gonna go for a fast car, so my next best option is having a Built LJ with some gogo juice under the hood(said LS). I want to be able to mash the throttle and light the tires, no matter now big they are.

Anywho, I know this started with an SD60, but as I have had time today I have been searching and trying to learn about 14 bolts(squirrel). I have access to this 1999 Chevy 2500 truck that I thought about turning into a goat truck(short story we have goats for the kids for 4H). Its got a 14 bolt rear, a unknown running 5.7, but an auto trans(that's no good) and it comes with a freshly rebuilt trans(whether its a 4l60 or a 4l80 I don't know), and I am gathering this would mate to said LS, then Id have my trans, and my rear axle. Truck is $750. Anywho, I am not sure of the width, but then I am unsure if the weight and everything is worth running it, or going to a built 9.

(this could turn into several pages of me rambling, I'm sorry in advance)

Quote:
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How can i help?

John has already pretty much summed everything up, But i would be happy to help.

You can call me if you'd like.
Rich! Can I have your number again please(via PM)?

I wouldn't mind a quote to have you cut all the brackets off, cut it down, and weld the artec truss on it so it could be "bolt in ready".
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