2500hd 6.0 wheeling rig build

[sterlingfire]

Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2

Different air pressure and different brand tires can have a fairly large margin of error. 1/2" to me seems like a fairly decent amount when taking on a build and wanting done right. Maybe not exact Mm, but why leave a 1/2" to chance?

I guess i don't understand your concern. It's only for comparison purpose. It's not like he's building it around that measurement. I'm not trying to argue it at all, i just know that on a custom build like this having something to compare it all to helps to see where you end up.

[siettas81]

Originally Posted by sterlingfire

I guess i don't understand your concern. It's only for comparison purpose. It's not like he's building it around that measurement. I'm not trying to argue it at all, i just know that on a custom build like this having something to compare it all to helps to see where you end up.

when its done ill see what it is at and then see what my 2500 daily drive is at then i be able to tell how much lift i added

[sterlingfire]

Originally Posted by siettas81

nvm i remember your truck the blue 1500, sounds like your new plan is about what i am doing, you going to full hydro steering and loosing that lame trac bar and cross over steering lol ?

Some pics of mine stuffing the 39's to show how close it is even at 3" forward of stock with + -6" lift. No room for 40's, let alone 42's. That is carved back to where the cab and fender meet, and some bfh action on the cab to keep them from rubbing.

I'm staying 3 link. I like it, it works well, it fits into the frame constraints, and it is low. I can easily lose another inch, and I'm going to shoot for taking 3" of lift out at max when i redo things. Hydro assist is staying as well, just getting reworked to miss a few touch points when i lower it. I'm switching all my joints, steering, Panhard bar, and rod ends over to emf joints. They are bad ass, and are lifetime warranty. I will eventually do a three link on the rear as well (i have all my joints from the current configuration that will work for this) also I'm adding a winch, front and rear bumpers, doing rust abatement, rebuilding motor mounts (to clear upper link, and make room to lower it) doing e fans, and rear drive line from a 2008 ford super duty which is 2 pc and 1410 joints. I'm doing a lot lol. I need to build a shop before i start much of this though. I'll only take it out of service for a week at a time right now. I can't clog up my garage for too long, but i have a plan to do it in stages, we'll some of it anyway lol.

[CheapThrillB2]

Originally Posted by sterlingfire

I guess i don't understand your concern. It's only for comparison purpose. It's not like he's building it around that measurement. I'm not trying to argue it at all, i just know that on a custom build like this having something to compare it all to helps to see where you end up.

I was simply offering a suggestion on a more accurate way to measure, no more no less

[sterlingfire]

Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2

I was simply offering a suggestion on a more accurate way to measure, no more no less

Yup, sorry, i should have left it at that. Your advice is solid, and is really the only way to measure accuratelyit takes the tires completely out of the equation.

[siettas81]

Originally Posted by sterlingfire

Some pics of mine stuffing the 39's to show how close it is even at 3" forward of stock with + -6" lift. No room for 40's, let alone 42's. That is carved back to where the cab and fender meet, and some bfh action on the cab to keep them from rubbing.

I'm staying 3 link. I like it, it works well, it fits into the frame constraints, and it is low. I can easily lose another inch, and I'm going to shoot for taking 3" of lift out at max when i redo things. Hydro assist is staying as well, just getting reworked to miss a few touch points when i lower it. I'm switching all my joints, steering, Panhard bar, and rod ends over to emf joints. They are bad ass, and are lifetime warranty. I will eventually do a three link on the rear as well (i have all my joints from the current configuration that will work for this) also I'm adding a winch, front and rear bumpers, doing rust abatement, rebuilding motor mounts (to clear upper link, and make room to lower it) doing e fans, and rear drive line from a 2008 ford super duty which is 2 pc and 1410 joints. I'm doing a lot lol. I need to build a shop before i start much of this though. I'll only take it out of service for a week at a time right now. I can't clog up my garage for too long, but i have a plan to do it in stages, we'll some of it anyway lol.

Bad ass man great build looking forward to see the other steps

I don't mind if mine is a little high it's just going to be a all around wheeling truck not set up for certain things just going to rip parks trails mud dunes and whatever else it gets thrown into

[sterlingfire]

Thanks, i appreciate it. Yeah, i guess i get caught up on height. My thread was proof of that for a while lol. I have 4 kids and a wife though, so getting in and out should be semi easily done with a 2 year old in our hands. Rock sliders will make that easier though. I doubt i can get 3" lower anyway. I can Def get an inch out of it. That will at least get me back to the height it was at on 39's. Then rock sliders will get me 3 inches lower step in/out height.

[siettas81]

Originally Posted by sterlingfire

Thanks, i appreciate it. Yeah, i guess i get caught up on height. My thread was proof of that for a while lol. I have 4 kids and a wife though, so getting in and out should be semi easily done with a 2 year old in our hands. Rock sliders will make that easier though. I doubt i can get 3" lower anyway. I can Def get an inch out of it. That will at least get me back to the height it was at on 39's. Then rock sliders will get me 3 inches lower step in/out height.

I think I might just take fenders off and build a tube fender set up tapering into front end also

[jfry10]

This is my last truck with tube fenders I liked it other than it made it look less like a s10

[sterlingfire]

Originally Posted by siettas81

I think I might just take fenders off and build a tube fender set up tapering into front end also

This is also my hope on an end game for my truck, full hidden internal cage, tube front and rear with the fenders pinned to the tube. Full on truggy on a trailer lol.

[sterlingfire]

Originally Posted by jfry10

This is my last truck with tube fenders I liked it other than it made it look less like a s10

This is a good looking rig imo. Bet it worked well too.

[siettas81]

Well mocked up trans cross member and lower link mounts and bars on the truck this weekend ! Time to work on upper link mounts, bars, and shock mounts then I can start cycling everything and see how it does

Will post pics soon

[siettas81]

[sterlingfire]

I don't like how your links are mounted at the frame. Are you sure they're going to be strong enough like that?

[siettas81]

Originally Posted by sterlingfire

I don't like how your links are mounted at the frame. Are you sure they're going to be strong enough like that?

it is just tacked together with out gussets right now so yes looks a little weak at the moment but it wont be when finished up.

[siettas81]

might angle upper axle mounts a little, and still need to finish building upper frame mounts, i just strapped them up to frame roughly where they will be.

[siettas81]

changed my mind sold the 4 used coil overs i bought and going with the new big shocks nitro air shock

[siettas81]

[siettas81]

[siettas81]