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Old October 9th, 2014, 03:02 PM   #1
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Default Tie Rod ends and Balls Joints

Took the 07 JKU in for the DW issues for an alignment. Was having bump steer at higher speeds pre lift. Noticed a bit of creaking when turning that has progressively gotten worse. They came back and said 3 out 4 ball joints need to be replaced and the 4th was probably on its way, as well as the both sets of tie rod ends.... Total for parts and labor 1800 + tax.... Priced out the parts myself not sure where they are getting the 1000 for parts.. From what I am reading Moog parts are the better replacements for the price... I am guessing its really not that hard of a job. They said about 7 hours labor.


Never done anything suspension work wise prior to the lift.


Anyone got any how to's for a suspension newb. What tools will I need? Am I wrong in assuming this is not that hard of a job? Thanks.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 03:04 PM   #2
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Need the parts if you're close to 8 mile and 75 I can hook you up...
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Old October 9th, 2014, 03:05 PM   #3
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Need the parts if you're close to 8 mile and 75 I can hook you up...
Not to far... From there im in clarkston... but if it will save $ shoot me a pm with the info... thanks
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Old October 9th, 2014, 04:44 PM   #4
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$1800 to replace ball joints?? 7 hrs??

You sir are either misunderstanding something OR someone has a boat payment due.

Even the good Synergy replacements are only around $200. Rent a ball joint press and diy.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 04:48 PM   #5
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Really not that hard to do. All very straight forward. Just Google jeep ball joint replacement. Very very simple, definitely helps to have some heat standing by to heat up the knuckles, makes them pop right out

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Old October 9th, 2014, 05:03 PM   #6
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Only hard part is if the ball joint starts spinning when you're trying to get the nut off. If that happens you can try putting downward pressure on the nut with a pickle fork or pry bar. I've also had good luck with squeezing the top one with a pair of BIG pliers to put added fiction on the inside ball. I highly suggest hitting them with penetrating compound for a few days in a row before you plan on doing this

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Old October 9th, 2014, 07:12 PM   #7
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Get on Amazon and buy yourself some new spicer ball joints. They are tried and true. Not sure about the price for jk ball joints, but my TJ ball joints where less than $40. per side shipped.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 08:07 PM   #8
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Get on Amazon and buy yourself some new spicer ball joints. They are tried and true. Not sure about the price for jk ball joints, but my TJ ball joints where less than $40. per side shipped.
As much as I love saving money online, I disagree. I would buy moog or something with a lifetime warranty from one of the big auto parts stores. So much easier to warranty then that way. I replace mine about once a year due to running big tires and abusing my jeep.

I go to O'Reillys, buy new ones, install them and then return them for a full refund.

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Old October 9th, 2014, 08:17 PM   #9
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As said above, rent a ball joint press and buy a pickle fork. I find a 3lb hammer works great for getting the old tie rod ends out of the knuckles. If you can use an impact on the castle nuts, 9/10 times this will avoid the ball joint spinning issue. Look up the moog part number on rock auto. Com and then put that # into Amazon, you might save quite a bit.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 08:44 PM   #10
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if you buy everything on amazon, check for parts that are prime eligible, shipping can be free via the link below.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/custom...deId=200444170
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Old October 13th, 2014, 07:36 AM   #11
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thanks guys... now gotta find someone (hoping the bro in law) with time (and tools) to give me a hand so this doesnt turn into an all weekend project...
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Old October 14th, 2014, 04:49 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Mihlfeldl2005 View Post
As much as I love saving money online, I disagree. I would buy moog or something with a lifetime warranty from one of the big auto parts stores. So much easier to warranty then that way. I replace mine about once a year due to running big tires and abusing my jeep.

I go to O'Reillys, buy new ones, install them and then return them for a full refund.

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They also so often need replaced more often. This is why I only buy spicer ball joints. If you need to change your moog joints once a year running 33" tires I would be switching.
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Old October 14th, 2014, 04:50 PM   #13
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They also so often need replaced more often. This is why I only buy spicer ball joints. If you need to change your moog joints once a year running 33" tires I would be switching.
I've got some issues that wear out any ball joint pretty quickly lol

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Old October 14th, 2014, 04:58 PM   #14
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Im in the same situation with my superduty. They wanted $1000 to do it. I got the parts at the ol' napa for less than $250. I have the tools to do them, I just don't enjoy doing them.

But I do enjoy saving $800.
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Old October 16th, 2014, 04:23 AM   #15
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You may want to consider buying a good OTC ball joint press for your vehicle rather than renting the low quality one from Auto Zone or anyone else.

I have used Moog for years but, use 1.5" spacers on 31" tires on a daily driver. Just replaced my ball joints at 2+ years...I purchased synthetic ball joint grease to see if this helps. Ultimately, I wish I had the hybrid D30.
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Old November 3rd, 2014, 10:32 PM   #16
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Goin nuts... So with the limited access I have to help here is my order of events.

Had minor high speed bump steer no DW.

Installed 3" Zone lift with cam locks.

DW Materializes.

Check trac bar bushings look ok to me did not appear ovaled. Replaced with Grade 8 bolts. Tightened down dunno if to spec didnt have torque wrench available. But couldnt move them anymore. Seemed to help but DW came back.

Take to shop for an alignment, they tell me they cannot align all 4 BJs were bad and TREs as well... A mechanic buddy confirmed this. So order 4 Alloy BJs and 3 Moog TREs and one Napa TRE. Install the BJs since I only had limited time. Seemed a bit better but DW came back.

Today bought torque wrench and installed the TREs and torque to spec as well as make sure the trac bar is torqued to spec. DW still there...

Going outta my mind...

Of course when i went to take the driver's side wheel off to get to the grease fitting to grease one of the TREs i strip a lug nut... WTF...

So I have the one BJ that doesnt have an grease in it. But I dont think this would contribute to DW would it?
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Old November 4th, 2014, 06:20 AM   #17
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If you search you will find the answers you are looking for instead of waiting around for answers. This has been covered all over the jk forums.

Start by taking your track bar bolts out and see how small the bolt is compared to the hole the factory uses. It's been awhile since I dealt with this so I dont remember what the size is. I believe you will find a 10 mm bolt in a 11mm hole. Drill it out and put a bigger bolt in there that fits perfect, with no slop.
If this doesnt fix it you likely have a castor issue that wont be corrected without buying adjustable lower control arms.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 06:43 AM   #18
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You need an alignment now that you replaced ball joints.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 06:44 AM   #19
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You still never got an alignment either
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Old November 4th, 2014, 06:49 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdd1469 View Post
If you search you will find the answers you are looking for instead of waiting around for answers. This has been covered all over the jk forums.

Start by taking your track bar bolts out and see how small the bolt is compared to the hole the factory uses. It's been awhile since I dealt with this so I dont remember what the size is. I believe you will find a 10 mm bolt in a 11mm hole. Drill it out and put a bigger bolt in there that fits perfect, with no slop.
If this doesnt fix it you likely have a castor issue that wont be corrected without buying adjustable lower control arms.
I already replaced the bolts as mentioned... Got the planman thing... Just gonna have to go component by component now... Cam locks should have taken care of the castor issue i would think.
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