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The Taz

55K views 216 replies 37 participants last post by  JeepHeap 
#1 · (Edited)
9/4/18: New tub (post 75)

1/25/19: New drivetrain (Kingpin 60, 14b, 5.3l LS, 4l60e, Atlas II, and rear 4 link) (post 102)

Hi everyone, this is my first thread. I'm 13 and just got my first jeep!!

The jeep is a 1984 Jeep CJ7, disassembled inline 6 and 4 speed. The jeep is in pretty rough condition and needs a lot of work. Along with repairs, build plans include:

05+ Super Duty Dana 60
05+ Sterling 10.5
3 link front
XJ rear leaf springs
Chevy 350
SM465
NP205
Aluminum Super Duty wheels
37” Cooper STT Pros







All loaded up and ready to go home!!




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#65 ·
Not much progress since the last update because we have been working on my dads Jeep.

We got the engine bolted in and then got to work making a transfer case cross member.






The steel wheels that we picked up earlier won’t work because they weren’t deep enough for the bolts on beadlocks. When we started looking around for new wheel options, we found a deal we couldn’t pass up thanks to @jeepinjz.




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#66 ·
Since the last update, we have made some great progress on the front axle. We were offered an unbelievable deal on the milling of my knuckle for high steer, so we took it right away and got it done. The arm is an inch thick. A couple days after the high steer was done, the same guy offered to help us put back together the axle in his shop since he has more experience and a jig made for it. After less than 2 hours of being there, the axle was in one piece and straighter than what it would have been if we tried it.













As soon as we got it home, we started mocking it up. Ending up with about a 109” wheelbase with a 10” stretch in the front and 7” in the rear.







Since it’s so wide, we will be able to get TONS of steering angle.






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#68 ·
Looks awesome, can't wait to see more updates and see it done.
 
#69 ·
Began on the front suspension. Got the 3-link mostly in. Mounts are tacked in and links are mounted.









As we suspected, full bump is 3 inches from ride height due to the diff being so big. Due to this, we decided to do tubing for the frame from where the diff starts. With this we should get 3-4” more up travel and hopefully end up with 7” up and 7” down with the 14” shock.




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#72 ·
Congrats! There's a special place in my heart for old CJs (I've owned a TON), and I admire your initiative with working hands-on with this build. I'm looking forward to the updates. :thumb:

EDIT: Wait, you're John's son? Very cool...great Dad, too.

Craig
 
#73 ·
Project Heep CJ7

Great progress today on the Heep. Began on finishing the front tube frame and then connecting them in a bumper. After that, we got to work, started by taking off the fenders, then made shock hoops. They turned out okay but not the best. We mounted the air shocks on and put the axle shafts in. We couldn’t get it on all fours yet due no trackbar, so that is next on my endless list of things to do to get this done.

Pictures:









Ride height (the axle isn’t centered):



Full droop:



When we found out that we need a trackbar to get it on all 4s, we noticed that ride height in the back is WAY lower than we thought it was since we have never had it with actual weight on the front. We might have to redo the shock hoops and make them taller to get more up travel now.

Also had a friend stop by and he took us on a ride in his dads CJ2A



Now I need a cruiser Willy’s.

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#74 ·
Had some free time today and since we couldn’t get DOM for the trackbar, I decided to go through the wiring harness and label the wires that I could. Just trying to get stuff done while at a stand still until tomorrow.







Had a helpers too.





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#75 · (Edited)
Well, as you can see, the body of the heep is pretty rusted out, and I’m not too fond of going through and patching every panel. Luckily, something followed us home.















Allegedly, some guy restored it and put a plow on it. On the first trip out, he got hit or it hit something and bent the frame way over in the front. There are a few dents and a little body filler, but no rust. We were going to start dismantling and taking trips out to the trailer Friday and continue working Saturday, but when we got there Friday, it was way better than we anticipated and so we bought the whole thing, and picked it up today.

It’s really nice. It’s got like new best top seats, the hard top is immaculate, and has a rear defrost. All the wires are together and sort of neat, unlike the Heep.

Because of the fact that it isn’t rusted out, we are going to have to make new body mounts on the custom frame, but other than that, we are not really set back at all.

Since it is so nice, we are going to do everything right, and not just do “enough”. Plan is to Rhinoline the interior and the bottom to prevent rust and make cleaning easier, and then paint it. It’s going to take more work, but in the long run it will be much better and I will be a lot happier.

And, because it is clearly no longer a heap, it will now be know as “the Taz” because of this:





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#82 ·
nice work!







Have you test fitted a wheel onto the knuckle yet with the high steer arm on? On mine I ended up having to clearance the arms to miss the wheel...Its tight. We're you gonna tie into the tie rod hole? I couldn't tell from the pics.


We aren’t going to tie into the tie rod hole. Definitely going to check next time I am out in the garage.


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#85 · (Edited)
Well, tonight, I won. We started out by moving the front axle back 3 inches to get a 7 inch stretch, as apposed to the 10 it was, and more for it to look a little less absurd.

After we shortened it, we made a trackbar and then got her on all fours. First time in a little less that a year and 3 months.









She’s very low. And since we have the tires and the rollers, ride height will be about 1-2” shorter than what is pictured.

Took some measurements too. 74 1/2” to the top of the windshield, 26” to the bottom of the tub, and 19” to the bottom of the frame. And then soon to be at least 1” farther down than that.

As of right now, with 37s, it is sitting at about 4 inches higher than stock. Not bad if you ask me.


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#87 ·
Well, I’m pretty excited about today’s update. Last weekend we got the new tub all stripped down and ready for the swap.



Today started with tying the knuckles together so the wheels wouldn’t flop around everywhere. After we got done with that, I got the urge to flex it out a little to check clearances. I think I have a picture of it flexed out from every possible angle.











I was really surprised that nothing hit and everything worked out first try. The leaf springs in the rear exceeded our expectations and would probably do better if the tires weren’t hitting the body. We were considering 4-linking the rear since the leafs are just about flat at ride height, but since they work better than we thought, and it would save me a lot of time and money, we’re keeping them for now.

With the availability of more man power, we took the opportunity to switch the tubs around.





Snapped a few photos while the tub was off. The frame is really beefy!


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#89 ·
Since we first put the drivetrain in, the transfer case hanging below the bottom of the frame has worried me. With this on my mind, the uncut body didn’t last very long...







Another thing that has been on my mind is how we were going to make the trackbar work. Anything near full bump, the trackbar was making contact with the diff and the frame. So we fixed it.











It’s not straight, but it’s square with the body and the rest of the frame so it’ll work. With this new front section, I should get 6 up and 8 down which isn’t bad. Of course nothing can go perfect, so we ran into a few problems. With the frame higher, I’m wondering about the motor mount. The pass side is 2° above the top of the frame and the driver side is 2° below the top of the frame (basically even with the frame). Does the motor mount need to be higher?






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#91 ·
After thinking for a while, we decided to make a cradle to mount the engine. It turned out better than we expected and we are very happy with it. It also provides a point to mount the front of the engine skid plate to.







Once the engine was mounted, we focused on shock hoops. This time, we focused on making them even and straighter than the last ones. I’d say we succeeded with that.

Recently my dad found a copy of Bendtech EZ that he had laying around so I decided to begin playing with it. Even though it is just the cheep 2D version on Bendtech, it’s a real game changer. I made up a shock hoop crossbar and it turned out amazing.

After we made the crossbar, I began creating the back of the engine cage and once again was blown away by how helpful Bendtech was.







And apparently my dad is the king of tube notching with a grinder.






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#93 ·
A couple of days ago my dad couldn’t work on my jeep with me and I wanted to do something so I decided to go out to the barn and practice welding on some scrap. The welds aren’t the best, but I’m proud of them considering my experience.












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