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Go-Fast Inspired Colorado build

46K views 274 replies 67 participants last post by  Mr. Beefy 
#1 ·
Finally, not a Jeep build. Time to spice it up with something different.

For a new project I had nothing specific in mind, just a few key things I was looking for:

-Pick up truck
-Full Frame
-Crew Cab or Single Cab (no extended cab)
-Reliable Drive Train
-Good shape/ no rust.
-4 wheel drive

I found a 2004 Chevy Colorado. Single cab, old man cap, high miles, and 2wd. But the price was at the bottom of the budget, and I thought, well that's different. So I went to look at it, and after a test drive I made an offer and drove it home. After some research I find out it has the ZQ8 suspension, which is like the factory lowered edition. Kind of backwards from what I want, but oh well I'll be cutting all that off anyways.

Unfortunately all my pictures were lost when I got a new phone, but here is one I found that is similar.



Picture an old man cap on the back and Boom, you have what I started with.



Original Plan: Pretty basic, 1/2 tons, 35's, etc.

I had the Dana 44 and 9" from my old cherokee, already geared and locked with chromo shafts. Also had a brand new set of 35" KM2's from the jeep. So I started ordering tubing and Heims from RuffStuff. Planning to run a 3 link front with air shocks and SOA in the rear.

JohnnyJ's buddy had a good deal on 2.5x14 Air shocks, so I picked those up.



Order from RuffStuff had come in by now, and I had stripped the whole front end of brackets and was ready to begin. Until I changed my mind....I woke up one morning and decided to make my different project even more unique...


IFS.

Now is where I call it a "Bebe inspired Colorado". If you don't know Bebe's build on Pirate, it's a good read.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/hummer/915987-h3-long-travel-build.html

I mean why not? Stock Chevy Diff and shafts, build some control arms? How hard could it be?

So I sold off the air shocks and 35s started to search for more parts. And, I found this.....



1999 GMC Sierra 2500. Only driven on the weekends by an old lady, never in an accident, complete with Front axles, rear axle, 6.0l, 4l80e, NP261.

Perfect.

9.25 front axle and SF 14 bolt rear. Let the build begin------






Planned Rubber, 37" MTR-Ks



More Sub frame work











On to the lower control arms. Made with 1.75x.25 DOM and a 1.25" Heim on the knuckle. On the frame side I turned out some bushings made from Nylatron, after it was recommended from a racing buddy.





Since I was using a hard bushing, it was imperative that they both stayed on the same plane. So I used a 5/8" solid bar to keep them straight during welding.



Little TIG action





Upper Control Arms. 1.5x.25 DOM tube with 7/8's heims.



Starting to get everything mounted.



It's gonna be wide!



Next up Steering.
 
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#4 ·
For steering I had to do some research. Steering can be difficult with IFS. 1/16" off can lead to noticeable bump steer and poor driving characteristics. Originally I was going to use and OEM type Rack and pinion like Bebe did on her H3. But I ran over an article on Pirate about IFS steering caught an idea that intrigued me.

So I've decided to do a full hydro setup, where the ram ends mount to the frame and the steering mounts to the body of the cylinder. More on this later.

Here is a picture of the suspension with mock up steering.



No on to shock mounts. I picked up a set of 10" travel FOA 2.0 coilovers, set up for dual rate. Currently running PAC racing springs, 750/800.

More TIG



Upper mount



First lower mount, but have since moved it forward and outboard more.




Finally holding its own weight, close to ride height.



While waiting for steering parts, I've started on the rear. Pics to come.
 
#21 ·
Can you explain? I'm in for more gussets, just not sure what you mean?

cool build. I read the steering thread on pirate too, In my mind the huge advantage of ifs is the increased steering accuracy with a rack, seems like you would loose that advantage if you go full hydro. So is it dimensionally the same as a full size chevy front end? how much travel?
The diff and CV's are factory dimensions, however the control arms and mounting are very different. I wanted to use an OE style R&P, the problem was finding one that fit with my setup. The full hydro setup allows me to be 100% in control of it's geometry. The only other option for steering would be a swing-set with a steering box and Idler arm, like the factory Chevy. But I just dont have the room for that. It has 11.5" of travel before the hiems bottom out, will be bumped and strapped closer to 10.

Very cool build.
My fear with a full hydro steering setup is that you loose the ability for it to want to self center. Not a huge concern when you are going slow but more important for go fast. Or am i wrong?
I purchased a "self-centering" orbital valve. I have never driven a full hydro setup before, so I'm not sure what to expect with it. This whole build is a learning experience for myself. I'm sure I'll be changing some stuff down the road, though.
 
#17 ·
cool build. I read the steering thread on pirate too, In my mind the huge advantage of ifs is the increased steering accuracy with a rack, seems like you would loose that advantage if you go full hydro. So is it dimensionally the same as a full size chevy front end? how much travel?
 
#25 ·
Looks great! It's nice to finally see some real build pics instead of the faceyspace teasers
 
#33 ·
I am sure there is more than 1 design. The trophy tuck I worked on for many years had a hydro assist saginaw style box. Both tie rods pretty much connected at the pitman arm. There was a very very short center link.
 
#32 ·
Thanks guys. I'm glad to see alot of interest in it. It has been a fun build so far.

Mr. Green, What part of the control arm needs the gussets? For reference, here is a picture of the control arm on the H3 I used for inspiration on this build. The H3 weighs in at 6500lbs with a bigger tire.

 
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